Volvo 240

It depends on what engine you have. Some don't have distributers. GoodluckJoe

For the 1.8L & 2.0 L OHV Engines (For diagrams e-mail me: LanceRViolator@aol.com) <From a Chilton's> ON Chevrolet V6 models the distributor body is involved in the engine lubrication system. The lubrication circuit to the right bank valve train can be interrupted by misalignment of the distributor body. (Know your firing order to have correct position)

The '87-92 Chevy built 4 cyl 2.0: & V6 2.8L engines do not have a distributor. (They are DIS)

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Tag and disconnect all wires leading from the distributor cap. 3. Remove the air cleaner housing as previously detailed. 4. Remove the distributor cap. 5. Disconnect the AIR pipe-to-exhaust manifold hose at the air management valve. 6. Unscrew the rear engine lift bracket bolt an nut, lift it off the stud and then position the entire assembly out of the way to facilitate better access to the distributor. 7. Mark the position of the distributor, relative to the engine block and then scribe a mark on the distributor body indication the initial position of the rotor. 8. Remove the holddown nut and clamp fro the base of the distributor. Remove the distributor from the engine. The drive gear on the distributor shaft is helical and the shaft will rotate slightly as the distributor is removed. Note and mark the posistion of the rotor at this secod position. Do not crank the engine while the distributor is removed. 9. To install the distributor, rotate the shaft until the rotor aligns with the second mark you made (when the shaft stoped moving). Lubricate the drive gear with clean engine oil and install the distributor into the engine. As the distributor is installed the rotor should move to the first mark that you made. This will ensure proper timing. If the marks do not align properly, remove the didtributor and try again. 10. Install the clamp and holddown nut.

--> You may wish to use a magnet attached to a extention bar to position the clamp on the stud.

11. Installation o fthe remaining components is in the reverse order of removal. Check the ignition timing.

1.8L and 2.0L OHC Engines ( For Diagram e-mail me)

1. Disconnect the battery ground 2. Mark the spark plug wires and remove the wires & coil. 3. Matchmark the position of the rotor, distributor body and cylinder head. 4. Disconnect the wiring from the distributor. 5. Remove the two distributor holddown nuts. 6. Remove the distributor. 7. Installation is the reverse of removal. Torque the holddown nuts to 13 ft. lbs.

under the dash in the center console, it's big and red.

Yes

there called window scrapers and you can get them from Dave barton or ipd usa

Yes I just did that to mine, and it works great. No problems.

I would not expect it to have any detrimental effect if added in reasonable percentages.

Takes 2 people, 1 to press and hold the brake pedal while the other is under the car. Start with the wheel furthest from the brake fluid reservoir and work your way to the closest wheel. Each area behind the wheel has a bleeder valve that is about an 8 mm open/closed end wrench. Use a rag to catch overflow and then begin. Loosen the valve just enough to let fluid out and ask helper to press AND hold the brake pedal down. You then loosen for just a millisecond as fluid or air comes out then tighten. Ask helper to let up on the pedal. Then have helper press and hold pedal again. While the brake pedal is down you then loosen then tighten the valve. Continue until a solid flow of fluid shoots out of the bleeder valve. Often in the beginning it will only be air, the air and fluid then eventually fluid. Work your way then to the other rear wheel, then front passenger side probably then finally front driver's side. Dont forget to add fluid along the way to make up for what you are shooting out of the valves. Slowly your helper should be feeling a much tighter stiffer brake pedal. Then you are done! Of course this is all easier if you jack up the car as you work.

5.25 inch

Look underneath the car. Is it super clean around the rear of transmission and a little ways down drive shaft? If so, you may need to replace the extension housing gasket and bushings. The piece that contains these parts is at the rear of the transmission where the driveshaft connects. Over time this thing can start leaking pretty good. Fluid will be slung by the driveshaft onto the underside of the car. The high detergent value of transmission fluid will "clean" off the underside of your car, including the factory corrosion resistant coating! be sure to recoat underbody after repair or rust will destroy your ride. Be thorough with the inspection because trans fluid can get in some unexpected areas.

It is on the lower left side of the motor. It is black and in the shape of a large beer can. Step by step Volvo starter removal 1.) Disconnect the car battery completely 2.) Get the front tires up on stands so you can crawl underneath. 3.) Locate the starter (Lower left side of engine) 4.) Disconnect Power and ground cables from starter 5.) Make sure you have a ½ drive ratchet set (two ten inch extension are necessary [especially with the 240 models). 6.) Next you need to remove the two bolt which face the rear of the car out of the starter a. Accessing the bolts may be difficult as the transmission may impede direct access. b. Hook your ½ breaking bar to both your 10" extensions (20" in total) c. Remove the cross brace that holds the transmission, allowing the transmission to drop a few inches (hold transmission from falling too far with a few blocks of wood) d. Now you will have better access to remove bolts. Install starterà hook up boltsàhook up starter power and ground wiresà hook up battery (assure it is a charged battery) à Job Done!

Gap to plug not the car, .0028-.0045"?

All around Disc, 13" I believe

it should be about 70 psi....and should remain like that for as long as possible after turning off engine - days even if all is OK

The Volvo 240 never had air bags or antilock brakes until 1990.

The '90, '91, '92 & '93 240's only had a drivers side air bag, not dual air bags. Those were the only years the 240's had an air bag.

In '92 only the 240 GL had ABS. In '91 ABS was a factory option available on a limited number of cars.

In 1989 and earlier years there were no air bags or ABS on any 240's.

The 240 was discontinued in 1993. That year Volvo introduced the 850 which had dual air bags and antilock brakes standard. Then, in 1995, Volvo introduced side impact air bags. By 1998 Volvo added the head protecting air bag and side air curtains which set the standard for safety today.

For details on any model in any year check http://www.edmunds.com/

Hey, try these places to find a non-power antenna...


This one is genuine and thus $75
Volvo World

The Volvo Site

try these out

If your rack is not broken, it just leaks, you could try Jacks Racks in florida

800-880-3098 ext 1. They can do a rebuild service for you

Unscrew the plastic panel inside the trunk and the bulb housing unlocks when you turn it 1/3rd turn counterclockwise

No. There may be a slight increase in performance, but too much hydrogen can easily mess up the effective octane rating of the fuel. That fools with the engine performance - not always for the good. Timing goes wack because the fuel burns too fast and all that. And the engine will meter about the same amount of fuel even if hydrogen is included in the air stream. There might be a slight increase in fuel economy (because of the effect of the hydrogen in making the engine "run with more power" under the circumstances, but it isn't a cost effective solution to the problem of improving fuel economy. If the inquiry isn't about fuel economy but about performance, nitro (nitromethane) will work a lot better. But it will mess with the performance curve, too, and tuning will be required. Additionally, it burns a lot hotter than pump gas. That makes it hard on your engine.

met poep

Dexron Mercron ATF type II/III is the recomendation for the fluid. There should be a sticker on the PS reservoir or bracket stating that as well. An SAE engine oil is also acceptable, however it will result in a more "dirty" system and not behave as well under high temperatures.

The 240 Series Volvos use standard type power steering fluid. This type fluid is available at most any auto supply store.

87 or earlier wagon, non turbo. There are MANY examples of 80's Volvos with over 1 Million miles on all original drivetrain and still running very well. I have seen SEVERAL coming through car auction lanes with over half a million miles. The only thing I have seen come close was a 1983 Toyota P/U, BASE MODEL, 4 cyl, manual trans ~ 450,000 miles. Didnt look or run NEARLY as good as the worst Volvo I have seen with a half mil on the odometer.

The catch:

It needed to be previously owned by someone who gave a crap about the car and serviced it themselves with dealer parts, or had it serviced at the dealer or equivalent/better than dealer specialist location (i.e. R&H Imported Car Service) its whole life. Volvo oil filters are VERY special! They are not only a VERY LOW micron rating, but they also trap the oil in the engine to prevent dry starts - the average Fram or Pep Boys special just lets it drain back into the pan so every time you start your car you subtract miles from its life. Just because something is an OEM replacement or It FITS does not mean it will do all the things the OEM part will do. This makes the difference in a 150,000 mile engine that smokes, or a 700,000 mile engine that doesn't. I have an 87 240DL Wagon in my drive, 477,000 miles - does not smoke a LICK, and I drive the living CRAP out of it! I am regularly holding it down to the floor to pass slow traffic as I am a bit lead footed. With a 114hp engine, 4 speed automatic, and the weight of a tank, you gotta make it work hard to achieve interstate speeds. However, the wagons tend to be geared shorter (as Volvo expects wagon owners to pull more weight more often), so their acceleration is typically better than the sedans.

The 87 year and previous year models actually used a STAINLESS STEEL (yes, you read that right) crank shaft! Not cast iron, STAINLESS STEEL! That factor alone makes the 87 my model of choice.

This is all in the eye of the beholder. In all honesty the 87 740 Turbo/Intercooled wagon would be my all time favorite of modern bricks (as Volvo said, until Ferrari makes a station wagon in one of their ad campaigns). They are rock reliable, as long as you are willing to maintain properly and understand that the turbocharger is a MAINTENANCE part, not a "Will last as long as the car" part. (Maintenance part meaning something you expect to replace every so often, like a timing belt or spark plugs).

My favorite Volvo of all, the P1800. Back when Volvo let the engineers do what they wanted, and the bean counters didnt have much input in what goes. When you went to the dealer, if you had to ask the price, you couldn't afford one. Style, elegance, curvaceous lines, sloping hood and roof, non obtrusive stabilizer rear fins, and the ONLY street legal car of the time to be SCCA Approved for racetracks WITHOUT a Roll bar! With good paint and some chrome accents (tasteful amounts) they will fit in at ANY car show and DEFINITELY turn heads. Some people will stop and say "Is that really a Volvo!?"

Depends on the engine and ECU you have in it