Volvo 240

If your Volvo is an automatic transmission try changing the fuel filter.

after a while Volvo is pretty bad car with minor mechanical things get a new car

NO!!!.....not unless you changed for old style calipers too.....why would you want to do it?....you would be seriously reducing braking power and safety.....it's not safe or cheap or or clever way to go!!

Usually the car will not start. Win you turn your key to the on position, you should hear a "whine" from your tank, signalling that the fuel pump is working. If your relay is bad, the pump won't come on (although this can also be a bad fuel pump).

Another way to check is to have someone else turn the key to on while you listen for the relay to click. It's pretty quiet, so you have to listen really close.

on left rear side of engine block

This sounds like the starter is not getting +12vdc start voltage from Key switch.

A connection wire travels from key switch-----yellow /blue----- to the Park/ Neutral switch-- yellow/blue--- to starter.

My experience is: AUTOMATIC Shifter lever looses tracking pin.

(The starter is disabled when not in in park or neutral)

I once bumped my shifter with my foot when moving over the seats and the car would not start again.

Remove two screws from front of plastic shifter cover and slide it up and to the rear. If the switch is not moving and tracking the level movement you found your problem.

Two screws on the right side of the switch hold it in place. MARK THE SCREW POSITIONS before you loosen them. With Screws loose you can move the pin back into slot on lever.

The regulator is internal to the alternator! Just replace the alt.

The alternator has an internal regulator that can be replaced by itself; however, when there is an issue with the alternator, it often involves diodes in alternator instead of or in addition to the regulator.

better repair shops will often take an alternator to an automotive electrical repair shop for same-day rebuilds, with the value much higher than a cheap rebuild in a chain parts shop, and hundreds less than a dealer replacement. You want Bosch or your own Bosch rebuilt

You remove the valve cover, install a new plug & valve cover gasket, and reinstall the valve cover. The part number for the plug is 1336763. Careful not to overtighten the small valve cover bolts (6mm thread), and tighten them in alternating sequence (not in a circle, and gradually).

7/8 Inch Socket:

My Chilton Manual Volvo 1970 - 1989 has a detailed explanation of what the VIN number means on p.6

A 1988 Volvo 240 has three power steering hoses: pressure hose from pump to rack, return hose from rack to reservoir and intake hose from reservoir to pump.

Pressure hose consists of a rubber middle section and two steel lines with flare fittings. To replace it you will need a flare nut wrench to unscrew them and to screw the fittings of the new hose back in. Do not use a regular wrench, it can strip the soft fittings easily.

The return hose is a plain 3/8" high pressure hose that slides onto nipples of the reservoir and rack.

The intake hose is also a plain hose attached with regular hose clamps, but it is 5/8". The replacement procedure is the same.

To remove, loosen the clamps with the appropriate screwdriver and then slice the hose lengthwise from the end to 1/4 inch past the end of the nipple with a boxcutter. This is done so that the hardened old hose comes off easier. This is very important on the reservoir, because the smaller nipple is easily broken off, which means you have to replace the whole reservoir to the tune of $50 or so. Be sure to pull the hose straight off, not at an angle.

To install new hose, slide clamps onto the hose, slide hose onto nipples, tighten the clamps, fill reservoir, run the engine and check for leaks.

Keep in mind that when you disconnect any end of any of the hoses, some fluid will come out, so you might want to keep a bunch of rags handy.

At the base of the distributor is a pinch bolt. Loosen the bolt and pull it out. When re-installing the distributor, pay attention to the notch on the base of the distributor. It will only fit one way.

The warm up regulator is located underneath the inlet manifold. The best way to desribe it is as a small ally box with a fuel inlet and a fuel outlet, and they're slightly different sizes so that they don't get muddled up. It also has a twip pin plug.

pull out the ash tray and the plastic frame behind it.

conceptzperformance.com Z1motorsports.com

it located under the rear driver side next to one of the fuel pumps

Working on the exhaust system is a job best left to a professional. You will save very little by doing it yourself. Have the catalytic converter tested to be sure you need a new one. Catalytic Converters are very expensive so you do not want to replace a good one. If it is bad you need to find out why it went bad. Things like a miss on a cylinder from a bad plug or a defective O2 sensor will ruin the converter. Also a burnt exhaust valve will destroy the converter.

under the drivers side dash. on left side near the door frame. the side wall that curves around the corner has a small button that you twist ans the panel comes off to the fuses.

Open the OIL FILLER cap--on the top of the engine- and add oil.

Fuel pump in the rear of the car.. from underneath... when the car is on a lift. the filter is a canister near the pump.. costs about 15 or 20 bucks online... look in places like thepartsbin.com

1987 volvo 240dl automatic backup lights don't work,fuze and bulbs ok, how do I trouble shoot?

if its a 240, ive done it before. there are two, of course... the one in the tank and the main, located under the backseat driver's side. You might not need to jack up the car, i didn't. remove the neg terminal and gas cap. I opened the main fuel intake on the top of the maniford and bled line prior to removing the line off of the pump. CLAMP THE LINE posterior to the pump or you will be covered in gas (no smoking by the way). There are three nuts underneath holding the rubber platform up against the car (youll see). these come out and then the line on the larger fuel filter (adjacent to the smaller pump) must be disconnected as well. Basically, three things must be disconnected: the posterior line (rubber) the electrical leads (wire-2 + -) and the gas line off of the fuel filter (smaller diameter rubber I think). DO NOT wail on that gas connection (fuel filter) unless you have very good leverage and will not strip the teeth of the rotor nut. There is only one and unless you want to go to a dealership and get another, use caution. The line to the pump was fastened with a flathead hose clamp like on the coolant line under the hood. The fuel filter IS NOT. What one actually takes out is a piece of the undercarriage which holds the two components up against the bottom of the car, fashoned with rubber "shocks". The fuel filter and the pump come out together on this "platform" and a u-joint (prob corroded) must be removed, use tons of WD40. Its prob a good idea to replace both the filter and the main pump, since its out anyway. Also, make every attempt to avoid getting any junk in the line or the components, (dirt, rocks, dust ect.). These components ar fragile and will bung up the works if they get to the intake manifold. Make sure... from the back it goes: tank, inside pump, line, main pump, THEN filter, line, intake manifold. Also, there are arrows on the new part indicating the direction of the fuel flow, don't get it backwards. Reessemble the fuel filter line first, then the pump to insure its right, the other attachment is much more forgiving to replace. then simply put it all back together. Gas cap on, main line tightened and torqued and battery lead on. don't sweat bleeding the line as the injection system will do it as it spins. Look under and make sure there is no gas pouring out... usually means the components are backwards (flow) or the attachment to the filter is not secure. All in all this was not a pleasent experience and if youhave the bread, pay someone else to do it.

If their is a relay it will be under the center console near the gear selecter. I believe however, it's a solenoid mounted on the left side of the transmission.

Not so.

Pull the glove box out and look to your left under the center dash vents. The relay is white and in a clip that is attached to the dash frame

Behind the ashtray is where it is located. You will need to remove the box above the ashtray to gain access to the relay as you can't slide the fuse/relay panel out otherwise. BTW if the car is an automatic the relay is white and sits on the left side of the panel

Connected to the intake air duct.