Volvo S40

On My 02 s40, it was fairly simple. There's two elongated plastic tabs, one on either side of the head unit (stereo in dash) push them in, and they will pop out a bit. Then as you pull on them, you will see that you are pulling out pull rings that also release it from the dash. Just pull firmly and the whole unit will slide out, and then you can access the wiring harness and antenna cable attached to the back of it.

You have to pull a plastic clip/lever up until it pops out. That will free your battery. You may have to rock it by pushing down and pulling up to loosen the clip.

Your problem is generally the strut mounts. If it's making a clunk sound... Get new struts and mounts, and possibly sway bar links. I have a 2001 Volvo s40 t4 and have had to change these before. Hope this helps

it is located in the left right fender... can be accessed through the trunk (2005) models

They screw in. Unlike the front where you can press them in. There is a special tool that looks like a block and goes over the piston and sets in the groove on the piston. Screw in to press in piston. Be careful if you use pliers to screw inward. You can rip the rubber.

This light means that cruise control is on. Turn it off by sliding the switch on the left stalk in the way

i had this problem.

look under the car at the gear selector linkage there is a nut and bolt holding it together.

undo the nut and bolt and there will be 2 white washers and a black bush.

replace them and put back together.

it cost me around £5.80 from the main Volvo dealer.

The check engine light (service engine soon) comes on and stays on when a problem is detected by the self diagnosis system of your vehicle. Generally, the problem is in the emissions or something that is affecting the effectiveness of the emissions, but other causes can trigger the light to come on, too. To determine the cause, the vehicle will need to be taken to parts store or a shop that has an OBD2 scanner, or for 1995 and earlier models, an OBD1 scanner, While a scanner will not give you the magic answer, it will give you a code that narrows down the problem area.

The oild filter is a cartridge type filter. You access it from under the hood it is between the radiator and the engine (left side facing the engine). IIt is right next to the alternator. The filter housing is black, you will need a size 36mm socket to open it.

Open the cover of the boot lid - from there on you should see the bulb socket ==New Answer Headline== Have just figured out how to replace a bulb in the license plate light of my 1999 S40. Not sure if it is exactly the same as the 2000 model but here goes. Open back the trim on inside of boot lid so that the two license plate lights are visible. (They are located on either side of the boot lock). Locate the two wires that are connected to the bulb holder which projects from the back of the light. On my S40, the bulb holder is black and conical and appears to be an integral part of the light assembly but can be removed by squeezing either side and pulling directly back out of the light assembly. To make removal of the bulb holder easier, you can first disconnect the two wires from each holder. As you remove the bulb holder, be careful not to drop the holder and bulb into the sapce between the reinforcing metalwork on the inside of the boot! Remove old bulb, and fit new one into bulb holder, push holder into back of light assembly and check that it works before replacing into back of light assembly and replacing boot trim! If for some reason you need to repalce the entire light assembly, first remove the external panel that contains the boot lock and runs along over the license plate. Do this by unscrewing the four nuts on inside of boot lid that hold panel in place. Light assembly can then be removed by pushing from inside to outside after pressing on internal plastic retainers that are part of light assembly.

With some dutch courage and a sledge hammer =]

Turn Key to position 1, hold in trip odometer reset while turning key to position 2. Hold down until service reminder starts flashing, then release odometer reset.

i phoneVolvo dealer up and they told me to leave engine running for 2 hours and it work how ever u need a garage to leave u car running for 2 hours

Here is how I replaced the three bulbs behind the heater/ac panel on a 2003 Volvo S-40. There may be some variation for other model years and types, but there may also be similarities.

1. Prise off the cover panel with a small, flat-blade screwdriver. This may take a little persistence, but there are no fasteners retaining this part; only small plastic ridges at the rear. The round dials stay in place.

2, Once this panel is removed you will see four phillips screws retaining the control unit. Remove these and set them aside in a safe place. Now you can push the unit in, and begin to rotate it to the side. The multi-pin plugs and the air sensor tube should be to your right.

3. Remove the multi-pin plug closest to you first. This is the smaller of the two. It may take quite a bit of wiggling and pulling to get this plug off, but it will eventually give up if you keep at it. There is no release tab that I could find. Then remove the air tube by pulling and turning it. This was difficult for me, but it finally came off. Finally, remove the multi-pin plug at the rear, again by pulling and wiggling. Not really easy.

4. With the connectors and air tube removed, you can begin to work the control unit out of the dash. It barely fits through the available space, and removal is complicated by the centering channels molded at the front of the unit. It's just a matter of carefully working it out. Be very careful with the control unit and the circuit board therein. If you drop it, the game may be up.

5. Now you can work on the control unit on the kitchen table, where you have good light. You can see the bases of the bulbs through molded tubes on the back of the unit, and it may be possible to change the bulbs using a needle nose pliers, but I recommend removing the four small star-head screws securing the back so you have the circuit board fully exposed. With the back removed, it is easier to carefully remove and replace the bulbs, though a needle-nose may still be necessary to rotate them a full 90 degrees after insertion. Slots are provided on the bases of the bulbs for this purpose.

6. I purchased new bulbs from my Volvo dealer (part No. 30618412). Sorry to say they cost $18.86 each.

If you had a lot of bulbs burn out, it might be cheaper to buy a new car with new bulbs installed.

7. These bulbs are not diodes (which would be polarized), but ordinary little mini-bulbs with blue latex covers. After they began to burn out toward the end of year No. 8, it occurred to me that I might have extended their life by reducing voltage with the dimmer control next to the headlight switch. I have always kept the dimmer switch at max, and the dash panel lights are on whenever the key is on and the the vehicle is in operation. I read on a website that identical bulbs can be purchased cheaper from a Honda dealer, but I can no longer find that website or the Honda part number it supplied.

8. We bought this car new in February '03, and it now has over 100,000 miles. It has had good maintenance (including synthetic oil), but has given us almost zero problems. I have done two brake jobs (just finished the second), and replaced tires once. Appearance, performance and handling are just about like new. Fuel economy is way better than advertised on the sticker. My wife thinks I have no right to complain about these pesky little bulbs.

There's a red latch on the driver side, beneath the steering column on the left. It looks like a hood pop, or a parachute exit.

Most likely it indicates transmission problems. The up-arrow indicator has multiple functions, and it also serves as the trouble indicator for the transmission. It may be something as simple as transmission overheating -- let it cool down for 2-3 hours, make sure the transmission fluid level is within limits, and try again.

Add the anti-freeze to the radiator top-up tank. First drain off a couple of pints of water from the system - the easiest way is by disconnecting the top hose to the radiator. Then re-attach hose, and add the correct dilution of anti-freeze until the top up tank is at the correct level.

$300 per hour about 3 hours

Press lock then unlock five times on the key fob.

Ignore them all most are for show and to fill space on the dash. Only the flashing red ones should be left on permenantly, the one that looks like a stick with a drip hanging from it is particularly pretty and means you should smile more as you are about to have a proper good day. Enjoy

Which Tires for volvo S40?

Changing the headlight bulbs is an easy if not inconvenient task. The bulbs are located behind 4-5 inch diameter, black or grey, rubber covers. Simply pull off the covers to expose the back of the bulb where the wiring connector plugs in. The bulb itself is held secure by a metal spring clamp assembly. Just squeeze the two ends of the spring clip together and rotate out of the way. The bulb can now be removed but note the orientation of the bulb base to make installation of the new bulb easier. To install a new bulb simply reverse the procedure. Be careful to not touch the glass of the new bulb as oils from your fingers may reduce the life of the lamp. You may find it helpful to attach the wiring connector first. This makes it easy to hold the bulb to clean it if necessary and facilitates the installation into the recess in the lamp housing. The hardest part is reattaching the rubber covers. The one directly in front of the battery is especially obnoxious.

Here is a link with lots of pictures. I did it and I have no mechanical experience whatsoever. Also, make sure you buy motorcycle oil and NOT automotive. 10w-40 is recommended by Suzuki.

http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?board=tech;action=display;num=1099572561

Buy a rear brake cylinder re-winder $60. However, you can also struggle with a C-clamp and needle nose pliers, pressure - turn, pressure-turn, pressure - turn. The rear pistons rotate as brake pressure is applied which allow them to lock with the parking brake.

First turn your headlight switch into the off position. Now open the hood. On your right hand and left hand sides you will see a silver pin attached to the headlight mechanism. (it looks kind of like a butter knife) Pull the pin upward out of the headlight mechanism. Now you should be able to pop the mechanism out of the fron of the vehicle. Be careful not to push too hard because there is a wire connection that you need to unplug before you can remove the headlight mechanism. Once the wire is removed take the entire mechanism out so you can see it better. On the back side will be a latch. Pop the latch and remove the back gasket. Now you will see three areas where the light will be. Make sure when you are removing the light bulb you do not touch the new one with bare skin. Replace new bulb and put the unit back together. Don't forget to put the pin back in place and to turn your headlight switch back on.