VW Beetle Type 1

All current U.S. Scions have 4 cylinder engines.

The Scion Xb/Xa both share the 1NZ-FE 1.5 liter engine, rated at 108 hp at 6000 rpm and 105 ft-lb of torque at 4200 rpm.

The Xb got a new 2.4 liter engine with the 2008 model year that it shares with the Tc and Toyota Camery.

The Xd is an all new model replacing the Xa in the 2008 MY and shares an 1.8 liter 2ZR-FE engine with the Toyota Corrolla.

The Scion Tc has the 2AZ-FE 2.4 liter engine, rated at 161 hp at 5,700 rpm and 163 ft·lb of torque at 4000 rpm.

p205 55rh16

Dirty air filter.

Bad gasoline

Dirty carburettor or dirty fuel injectors.

Ignition timing incorrect.

Contaminated, worn out crankcase oil.

Worn out engine.

cAN ANYONE TELL ME WHERE I CAN FIND THE HEADLIGHT FUSES FOR A 1998 NEW BEETLE I found a diagram here: http://www.somewhereville.com/blogimages/New_Beetle_Fuse_Card_large_10April2009.jpg

This is a source of great debate.

I always preferred 30-weight Shell Rotella T, which is made for two-stroke Detroit Diesels. Those engines, like our engines, run very hot.

A lot of VW drivers prefer 10W30 conventional oil. Either way is fine.

What you should never put in a 1966 Beetle is synthetic oil. It's not because it's bad oil, but because our cars have no oil filters so you're changing it in 1500 miles anyway. Use synthetic and you will go broke.

Because there's a short somewhere in the system, and it's probably on the master cylinder. VW, for some reason, used a brake light switch that's activated by brake fluid pressure. The switch is under the car where it gets wet.

The slides are most likely rusted. Remove the 4 nuts per seat from under the car, remove the seats and replace slides

There isn't one. You have to remove the round plate on the bottom of the engine. Inside you will find a screen dome. You will need to replace it along with the seal. Put it all back in place and add 2.5 quarts of oil. It is a good idea to have the heads adjusted at the same time as an oil change, but remember that need to be done on a stone cold engine. If you go to www.mamotorworks.com you can get the oil seals and screen for a couple of bucks. I would change out the trans fluid if this is you first time doing any of this (just bought it or something).

The sump nut is on the sump or oil pan of your VW. if you jack up your car and climb underneath it from the front you'll see the sump nut on the lowest point of the engine pointing towards the back of the car and slightly down. Don't undo the sump nut/ plug with the engine warm/hot, the oil in the sump will also be hot and can scold you.

i have one im restoring right now 68 and am doing dash now too.

the front top bottom has screws and around glove box plastic rivets.

the rivets have titties. press them in then pull out the rivets. (like modern cars)

once all the inside parts are removed.

vent knobs pull off, others come off CCW rotation, x3

the area behind the dash in the trunk there are metal tabs.

you my have to remove the speaker to see them all there.

there are many , do not miss any.

they are twisted 90 degr. un-twist them and the dash comes off.

the dash is fitted to the upper fire wall, in this manor.

once off , the dash looks 1967 ish. surprise some like this better.

I do.

see thesamba dot com for lots of photos and many upgrades to same.

asking here is tedious and has no photos.

the below is not even close there are many parts on the dash

and every one comes off ,not just the speedo

gee they built the car and you can un build it.

Really, the only dash part that comes off is the speedometer. Under the front deck lid, there is a panel behind where the dashboard is. Take that off and you'll see the back of the speedometer. There should be 3 or 4 bolts holding it in place. Unbolt them and pull the speedometer back towards you.

its set by the ecm but sometimes the throttle plate has carbon built up and lowers the idle just have your mechanic clean it

No, the unit was set up for ball bearings. Rollers will not work. Yes you can and I just did! The races in the hub must be replaced with ones that came with new roller bearing. Inner bearing races must be removed from spindle and not used. Got the roller bearings from PartsPlace for VW in Auburn Hills, Michigan

2.5 litres

It holds 10 gallons.

Door cards.

remove screw from window crank.

remove the plastic insert from door, lever inside, pry.

with a pry spoon , pry between lower card

it goes pop,

and repeat as you move.

then its out.

lift to clear arm rest, perch.

In a word ...NO !

the turn signal lever, pull it towards you, that changes the lights from lo to high

if you cant figure out how to unbolt it you shouldn't be trying to replace it

Raise the car and support it on stands. There is an acces cover underneath where the engine bolts onto the tranaxle that makes it pretty easy.

Well...it depends.

A Regular Beetle (flat windshield, no slots in the apron under the front bumper, spare tire upright, steel dashboard) has no springs in either end of the suspension.

A Super Beetle (curved windshield, slots in the front apron, spare tire lying flat, plastic dashboard) has McPherson Strut front suspension with springs around the shocks, but no springs in the rear suspension.

Hold your clutch disc sideways. The middle hub sticks out farther on one side than on the other. The side it's sticking out farthest on goes toward the transmission. Don't worry...if you put it on upside down the pressure plate won't fit, which is your signal to flip the disc over. The important thing is to be sure you have the hole in the clutch disc exactly aligned with the hole in the gland nut...if you don't, the engine won't go back in.

To remove the bottom, just pick it up. There are no fasteners--it just sits there. The back is held in with two bolts, and by now most people have changed them over to big hex bolts, so you just use a wrench that fits. IIRC they came with allen-head bolts.

there is a curved lever inside the engine compartment or each light casing. Lift it up. This releases the headlight assembly enough to reach a precision flathead in the face of the vehicle around the headlight to push up four tabs releasing the headlight lense allowing the bulbs to be changed. Careful with the lever and the lense, they are designed weak and the adhesive holding the lense may come apart. Installing is the reverse. Slide in the snaps and push gently while pushing the lever back down.

Traction is one reason, as the engine and transmission are on top of the drive wheels. Another reason was that the engine and transmission could be built, installed, and replaced as a packaged unit. That also freed up more room for the occupants. The rear engine location allowed for the frontal area of the car to be lowered, giving the car a more (for the 1930's) aerodynamic shape. The car needed all the aerodynamic help it could get, as it was intended to carry 2 adults, 2 children, and their luggage down the road at 100km/h on a budget, all with Depression Era technology.

The drawbacks to rear engine designs include: 1) Poor engine access. 2) Tricky handling at the vehicle's limits unless there is careful engineering and suspension setup. 3) More involved linkages for transmission and engine controls. 4) As the front wheels turn side to side for steering, the front wheel wells must be big enough to accommodate them, leaving less room for the fuel tank, spare tire, and luggage.

Those drawbacks became less acceptable in economy cars as time went on, for advances in constant velocity axle joints enabled engineers to economically mount engine and transmission over the front driven wheels, giving compact cars rear engine-like traction, but with more luggage room, more forgiving handling, and better engine access.

This would be model years 1972 through 1974 Type 1 Beetles with a 1600 cc engine size.