Possible, especially if your car is lowered... but even if that's the case its not likely, because the oil pain would likely be the part taking most of the beating... to find out for sure you need to tell us more info regarding the car.... also, your suspension/axle/cv joints/frame etc.. could be damaged as well...

Very possibly. It depends on how hard you hit the divider, how tall it was and how low your car is. I would think that if the devider was hit had enough to break the block there would be massive damage to the suspention and frame

The gas tank on the 2005 Volkswagen Golf holds 14.5 gal..

I have a 98 expedition, and i had a bad coil, they are hard to get to i guess some of them are way in the back toward the dash. if your check engine light is on, it should say " cylinder # misfire, then look in your manuel and see how the cylinders are are placed in the truck. When one of mine needed to be replaced , symptoms were, ideling funny, spitting and sputering ect pretty cheep fix around $200.00 coil/labor together.

There are two small buttons below the LCD display, left for hours and right for minutes. These buttons can stop working with age, and the easiest solution is to either remove the instrument pod fuse or disconnect the battery just before midnight and reconnect at midnight.

Both. But I'd start with a cold air intake. Then do the APR Tune. After you get a turboback exhaust you can get a downpipe file from APR.

Yes. The car was already in use by the public in 1890's. The first airplane didn't fly until 1903.

The only benefit to an MOT certificate is to be able to tax your car or prevent a fine if you are required to produce your documents by the police. It does not invalidate your insurance or devalue your car.

For example in the event of an accident and your car was written off (this usually being the only time an insurance company will request sight of the MOT certificate and incidentally they know if you have a valid certificate or not just by checking online with VOSA) the insurance company can only devalue your car if it can be proven that you have deliberately avoided to MOT the car due to the excessive expense of doing so, i.e. you know it will cost more than the car is worth so you did not bother. This is difficult for the Insurance company to prove. In the abscence of them being able to prove this all they can deduct is the cost of an MOT and this is generally a standard fee of £60.

It is important to remember that an MOT certificate is only fully valid on the day it is issued. Anything can go wrong with it the moment it is driven from the testing station.

If the light is on the airbag system is disabled, and there's a problem. You can't just shut it off. Hook up a scan tool and retrieve the fault code and fix it right. or the airbags will not deploy if you're in an accident.

Prolog:

I'm pretty sure we all know to fix the problem, but most of us just left the airbag lock unplugged or the seat unplugged when we turned the key on. I too am searching for a cure. I know Nissan titan's you can key on key off 3 times to reset.

Answer From my experience the clunk sound is comming form the lower a arm and the bolt that goes straigt thru the biscuit, needs to be tightned I am not a expert but I did spend alot of time figuring it out on my car. some one else writes, did you replace the ball joints? that's the main reason why cars make a single noise while turning.

Buy the same rated fuse pull out the broken fuse and replace with new fuse job done. The fuse box is under the drivers side of the dash.

(Don't forget the fuses under the hood!!)

The thermostat on all water-cooled cars is in the same place: inside the fitting where the upper radiator hose connects to the engine.

This looks like a long complicated explanation and process, but I just tried to be as detailed as possible to avoid any confusion.

To replace the day running lights you will need these tools: 2 Flathead Screwdrivers (you'll see why two in a sec), 1 Phillips Screwdriver, and a 13/32" hex driver or ratchet (I used the 13/32, but it was a bit big, you might have better luck in a metric size, i just didnt have the metrics), and the correct bulbs for the Day Running Lights (numbers can be found at auto parts store)

First thing you need to do is pop the hood. Along the top of the front grill, there will be four little black plastic pop-out retainers. Use the flat head screwdriver to pop these out and put them aside.

Then, look inside the grill from the front and you will see on the corners there will be black plastic pieces with a Phillips screw slot in them, there will be one per corner. Turn them so that they click out of place, don't force them too far.

Then, lift the top black engine cover that you loosened by removing the pop-out retainers and to the right of the center of the grill you will see a small hex-head screw that needs to be removed.

After that is removed, you will have to pop the sides of the grill out. There are metal clips holding it to the body, so push in on one side as you pull it and when one side pops out, do the other. Remove the grill and set it aside.

The lower light housing (where the DRLs are) will need to be popped out of place. To do this, use a flat head screwdriver to press on the clip closest to the center of the vehicle first (this one's hard, it will take some elbow grease).

Then, use the flathead to loosen the clip on the outside side of the housing. With the housing now hanging, the DRL should be able to be removed.

The plug it is in will need to be taken out of the housing first. There is a clip on the plug; press it and turn the plug counterclockwise to remove it. Then use the Phillips screwdriver to push in the small retainers on each side of the plug to remove the lightbulb.

Now the tricky part. Take both flathead screwdrivers, and one will go on one side of the bulb and one on the other. there are small grooves on each side of the bulb where it plugs in...put the flat head in the grooves, and use them at the same time as levers to remove the bulb. Then pop the new one in. (Sounds simple, but it may take a few minutes to be able to successfully remove the bulb.)

Then put the plug housing back into the headlight housing and turn clockwise. Then reattatch the housing with the outside clip going in first, then the inside one. (Remember to do both headlights.)

Then, put the grill back on. Position the four corner latches, then clip both sides. Then turn the corner clips with the Phillips to clip them on. Then screw in the hex-head screw. Then replace the four black pop-out retainers on top. Youre Done!

don't know, looking for the answer myself

Berlin,Germany

owners manual

It sounds like the cv boot on the axle. When there is a hole, the grease leaks out and it starts to grind the axle. You may need a new left or right axle, and cv boot.

Go in trunk; remove 4 screws from the pump cover (2 at either bottom corner, 2 at top close together) and remove that. There is a gold coloured nut sitting atop the now visible reservoir. Unscrew that. You can now top up the reservoir VERY slowly (use a small funnel otherwise the hydraulic oil will get everywhere) and reverse process when done. Only 5 minute job. THIS IS FOR A MK3 (93-98) I think its same for other models too, certainly MK4's.