Wheel Alignment and Balancing

Depends on the diameter of your brakes both front and rear. They have to fit inside the wheel. I would have to say no if the truck came with 15" wheels from the manufacturer.

first b sure tire/rim is balanced then i would look at the tie rod or a loose bolt or excess "play" at suspention/steering where they connect to wheel hub or is axle not locked into trans. thoroughly if none help u may have a bent hub assbly. "a frame"hope this helps

Depending on the type, they can have from one to six on one boot. one wheel - special, single giant wheel often very soft. two wheel - Usually for aggressive skating, leaves space in the middle for grinding. three wheel - Usually used on child skates, and child speed training skates. four wheel - the most popular kind, used for speed, aggresive, recreational and freestyle. Five wheel - usually for speed and downhill skating. Six wheel - Seen on the Lotus frames, for downhill skating. *I've seen one with 8 wheels, but it was made with two frames screwed to one boot, and was probably just for fun.

Well, the answer is maybe - it depends on the type of tire you are using. Some tires are either asymmetrical or unidirectional. Asymmetrical tires have a tread pattern such that the tire has a distinct "outside" and "inside" - that is, the tire must be mounted such that the outside part of the tread faces the outside of the wheel. These tires can rotate in either direction. Unidirectional tires have a tread pattern that requires the tire to rotate in one direction only. This type of pattern may help direct water better and can be seen on many wet-weather specific tires.

Note the unidirectional tire has a tread pattern that will funnel water away when rotating in one direction and suck water in when rotating in the "wrong" direction.

So you can "rotate" or swap your fronts and rears on a staggered fitment if you are using universal or asymmetrical treat patterns, but not if you are using unidirectional tread patterns. Just swapping the front wheels left to right might help a little - especially if your car has different alignment specs for the left and right, but it's unlikely to be of significant benefit compared to being able to rotate all four wheels.

It doesn't matter. However many people believe a rotate and balance needs to be done first.

You don't need to rotate MY tires but, you need to when your car goes left or right when the wheel is straight.

Most likely under-inflated tire

yes

Trucks usually have enough wheel well clearance to use 1" bigger rim. The REAL issue is the width of the 15" to the 14". Remember, the tire and rim combination must be able to clear the inner wheel well & suspension set up. Some may tell you not to worry about it and go for it, but I would be careful since its on turns where the tire will rub on the wheel wells.

Note: Always consult a your local tire dealer specialist, the advise is usually free of charge.

I am a Chrysler technician with 12 years experience. I am an electrical specialist and consider myself one of the best. Last year working 5 days a weak, at $28.00 per flat rate hour I earned $82, 444. The amount an auto technician is paid varies on the amount of experience the tech has. I had 3 years of Collision Repair classes at a career center, plus some freelance work, and I started out at $9/hr (getting raises as I proved/increased my skills). A friend of mine makes $15/hr (he has 5+ years experience) at another shop, and my shop teacher used to work for a company that paid him $24/hr (before he quit to become a teacher).

It depends on your location. $30-60

Wheels are not perfectly round. The rubbery substance that automotive tires are made of does not "cast" perfectly round. This means that there will be a natural "wobble" when the wheel is turned. At a very slow rotation, this wobble is not apparent. But when the wheel is rotating at a medium and above speed, the wobble turns into a nasty vibration that makes the vehicle shake.

Wheel balancing involves putting a small weight on the edge of the tire to balance the uneven-ness. The weights vary, but putting these weights on the edge of the tire will counteract the wobble. Since every tire is different, this process must be done by hand. The weight will be crimped to the tire mechanically, and after the process is done, the tire will not vibrate. The balancing weights will ensure a smooth ride.

If you get a "bumpy" ride, check the tire pressure, then check that the weights are on the tire. These are small lead colored bits of metal between the hub cap and the tire itself. There may be as many as four and as few as two. If one is missing, you can see a darker space on the edge of the tire. If you see the dark bit, you have "thrown a weight", meaning that one of the weights has come off the tire in the course of driving. While not common in most situations, it does happen occasionally.

A euro tire changer. most tires shops will have these but only allow certified techs to perform this task as allow wheels are easily scratched. cannot be done with household tools.

don't put 22's on your 300...it's just dumb

Yes .... With a 2" Budget boost lift kit. This will not clear with OEM suspension.

The tire size on my 2003 Dodge Dakota 4x4 Quad cab is p265/70/16 The tire size on my 2003 Dodge Dakota 4x4 Quad cab is p265/70/16 The tire size on my 2003 Dodge Dakota 4x4 Quad cab is p265/70/16 The tire size on my 2003 Dodge Dakota 4x4 Quad cab is p265/70/16 The tire size on my 2003 Dodge Dakota 4x4 Quad cab is p265/70/16 The tire size on my 2003 Dodge Dakota 4x4 Quad cab is p265/70/16 The tire size on my 2003 Dodge Dakota 4x4 Quad cab is p265/70/16 The tire size on my 2003 Dodge Dakota 4x4 Quad cab is p265/70/16 The tire size on my 2003 Dodge Dakota 4x4 Quad cab is p265/70/16 The tire size on my 2003 Dodge Dakota 4x4 Quad cab is p265/70/16 The tire size on my 2003 Dodge Dakota 4x4 Quad cab is p265/70/16

NO

The front wheels of a car can wobble because the car's suspension is not in proper alignment. The wheels may also wobble if the rim is bent or if the tire is improperly installed

The "h" or "v" rating is the speed rating on the tire.. the later in the alphabet the higher the speed rating.. h rated tires are the lowest rated and are not reccomended for high speed driving... Z rated tires are the highest rated and are reccomended for prolonged high speed driving .. think autobahn. ---------------- Beginning in 1991, the speed symbol denoting a fixed maximum speed capability of new tires must be shown only in the speed rating portion of the tire's service description, such as 225/50R16 89S. The most common tire speed rating symbols, maximum speeds and typical applications are shown below: ---------------- M - 81 mph - 130 km/h ---------------- N - 87 mph - 140km/h --- Temporary Spare Tires ---------------- P - 93 mph - 150 km/h ---------------- Q - 99 mph - 160 km/h --- Studless & Studdable Winter Tires ---------------- R - 106 mph - 170 km/h --- H.D. Light Truck Tires ---------------- S - 112 mph - 180 km/h --- Family Sedans & Vans ---------------- T - 118 mph - 190 km/h --- Family Sedans & Vans ---------------- U - 124 mph - 200 km/h ---------------- H - 130 mph - 210 km/h --- Sport Sedans & Coupes ---------------- V - 149 mph - 240 km/h --- Sport Sedans, Coupes & Sports Cars ---------------- When Z-speed rated tires were first introduced, they were thought to reflect the highest tire speed rating that would ever be required, in excess of 240 km/h or 149 mph. While Z-speed rated tires are capable of speeds in excess of 149 mph, how far above 149 mph was not identified. That ultimately caused the automotive industry to add W- and Y-speed ratings to identify the tires that meet the needs of new vehicles that have extremely high top-speed capabilities. ---------------- W - 168 mph - 270 km/h --- Exotic Sports Cars ---------------- Y - 186 mph - 300 km/h --- Exotic Sports Cars ----------------

There is no schedule for tire balancing; it is completely dependent on usage and need. For the averages, a tire can survive for its entire life without the need for balancing again; this average says you have never overloaded the tire, let it set too long without driving, caused the tire to spin (loose traction), skidded, etc.

The smart way to deal with this is to purchase lifetime balancing, and return to the original place of purchase to have them rotate the tires, and check the balance at the same time (7,000 miles or so).

Every 6000 miles.

no 15" tire will not bead up

In most cases, they are calibrated by a trained service technician who puts the heads on a fixture and "zero's" the sensors. This is done through a special sequence that is built into the administration features of the machine.

On late models - about year 2002 and newer, a user calibration feature is available. This requires placing the heads on a vehicle, taking a snapshot of the raw data, then swapping them around on the wheels. Another snapshot is taken and the machine compares the reading and calibrates as necessary.

With a little training the end user could calibrate his onw heads on older systems, but will require procuring a calibration fixture which may be hard to locate.

I would suspect most techs would charge around $100 to do a cal, but that may be off a little.

The "tread" is the part of the tire that is supposed to touch the ground. A tire with no tread would be a tire that is not supposed to touch the ground.

You may be wondering why tires have a pattern of grooves (a.k.a., voids) in the tread. They're for bad weather. The grooves allow rain, and (if they're wider) mud and snow to squelch out from under the tire so that the tread can come into contact with something solid on which to get a grip.

why/how do you think you put it on wrong?