Wheel Alignment and Balancing

if you have ever spun out without moving then it would wear the rear tires more than the front.

Good idea TO DO SO

14 inch wheels fir 14 inch tires, 15 inch wheels fit 15 inch tires.

The difference is 1 inch.

I'm assuming "take it to a tire shop" is not an option for some reason.

1. Put something like Liquid Wrench on it. This includes the threads and the base. Tap with a hammer (tap, not beat), let sit ten minutes, try to remove with your regular lug wrench. 1a. Put more liquid wrench on it and let it sit for a few hours.

If that doesn't work, try 2. Get a better lug wrench. A four-way is MUCH better than the "L" shaped wrench that comes with the car. 2a. Get some pipe that fits over the ends of your four-way, so you can get a longer lever for more torque. Step on the left side while lifting the right.

If that doesn't work, try 3. Borrow a 1/2 drive air impact wrench.

If that doesn't work, try 4. Heat the nut with a torch. A propane torch will probably work, but an oxy-acetylene will have a higher probability of success. Keep the heat just on the nut. Yeah, all the oil you put on it earlier will burn off and make a big stink. But when you heat the nut it will expand faster than the stud inside, loosening the nut. Try to take it off with your better lug wrench and/or impact wrench.

By this point, that trip to the tire shop ought to be looking like a pretty smart choice. Even if you have to tow it.

!! If you're going to try a torch with a magnesium or aluminum wheel, don't trust someone blabbering on the internet, find someone who really knows what he's doing. You could damage the very expensive wheel or kill yourself (no, I'm not kidding.) Or maybe even ruin your car. Both materials have melting points way below what you can achieve with a regular propane torch, and magnesium can catch fire. Even if you don't visibly melt the aluminum, you could very easily ruin the temper of the metal, leaving it much weaker than it was before. !!

If that doesn't work, you could try 5. See if you can get a nut splitter on it. This is a tool that you can put over a nut, then tighten it to drive a wedge into the nut, splitting it in half.

If that doesn't work, 6. You're probably talking cutting torch, which will probably damage the stud, but then the stud is probably already damaged. What I said earlier about mag and aluminum goes triple here.

The above answer covers pretty much anything you can do to take off a stuck lug nut but, if ur going to use an air impact wrench make sure u don't impact it more then a second or two because anything longer then that well break off the stud. trust me this happened to me today in my auto tech class in high school. And to replace the studs takes hardwork.

From New Reader:

To make a long story short, I had a nut that would not come off an aluminum wheel. I worked on it until I rounded the nut and even a nut extractor with impact wrench would not work.

I ground the nut flat with the wheel, took a center punch and marked the center of the stud (Hard Material). Then, with a "carbide bur" (Round Nose) and a high speed rotory tool (15,000-30,000 RPM) I ground into the Stud and Nut until there was almost no lug nut left hanging onto the stud threads. (Took about 10 minutes) (Hold firm with pressure toward nut. It will try to jump) Then with a punch and hammer on the center of the stud, I taped the stud, stripping the remaining threads and the wheel came loose.

Stud will need to be knocked out and replaced.

Hmm interesting but not the way I do it. As to Mickey Mouse 1/2" drive air wrenches most of them are so weak they are hardly worth bothering with. Some years ago I wanted to dismantle a jack hammer (precision items actually and very sensitive to dirt and rust). I drove my car on it to hold it down then used a 3/4" drive socket set with a scaffold pole for extra leverage. Car wasn't heavy enough! At the tyre fitters none of their air wrenches would look at it so I took the jackhammer to a heavy goods service station. First a 3/4" drive air wrench was tried but it was a waste of time. Luckily they had a 1" drive wrench which worked like magic. For wheel nuts those cheap 12 volt impact wrenches can be surpringly effective as they produce a lot more torque than the average 1/2" air wrench. If they last for a year of hobby use its money well spent. A portable spot welder is another way to crack tough nuts, 2 volts at 7000 amps or so makes a lot of heat, best of all the heat is concentrated in the nut so nothing else gets burnt. No expensive gas bottle rental agreements either! If one should ever get asked to "look at" a Porsche the problem is different. The nuts are aluminum and fit into deep holes in the alloy wheel. The actual nut is mushroom shaped and the "mushroom stalk" is hexagon shaped. When the hexagon rounds off one has a problem! Trying to drill away the nut won't be successful and the wheel will get damaged but with the correct size of holesaw the job is a snip. All that is needed is a holesaw that just clears the stud, Voila! Please note that heating studs or nuts up to red heat destroys the temper of the steel so in an ideal world they should be replaced. An alternative is to harden and temper the parts again. To harden heat to red then drop the part into old crankcase oil. To temper (reduce the hardness/brittleness) clean the parts until there is a shiny spot. Heat gently and quench in water when the correct oxide colour occurs. Blue with purple spots should be OK. Doing it this way one can re-use the parts, - very useful if one lives in the outback.

heat

Whats to best rotors for 24 in rims

The process of mounting and balancing a set of tires is done with the tires off the vehicle but it is generally understood that the tires will be fitted to the vehicle after the work of mounting and balancing is done .

can i put 22 inch rims on 1999 mustang

No. 15" x 6" (Grand) Voyager bolt pattern is 5 x 4.5" (114.3mm).

Astro is 5 x 127 or so. No fit!

Rear disc or drum brake systems do not require "balancing" as compared to the mounting of wheel weights on tire. Brake rotors and drums, when built as specified come dynamically balanced from the factory. Quality replacement rotors and drums should not require "turning," or machining down of the rotors either. If the "balance" issue refers to uneven, or extreme wear of on pad/shoe as compared to the other a caliper/cylinder issue can be involved. If you the car is feeling vibration or pulsing during breaking it could be related to rotor warpage, rather than a balance issue.

rapid or uneven tire wear, poor handling, "pulling" to one side or another, drifting...

the last # on your tire is the size rim you need for that tire 295 50 15 /15 inch rim

I am sure you know it must be a 15" rim and were asking about the width of the rim. You need at least a 9" wide rim but a 10" would be even better to avoid tire bulge.

Did they balance the wheel when they changed the tire? The other thing that may be off is the tracking, especially if you drove for any distance on the flat. Get theses fixed or your tires will wear unevenly.

lowering coils or coilovers. camber/caster balljoints on the front. strut cambolts on the rear.

Camber and toe can both cause inner tire wear.

In the United States, the tread has to be 4/32 (3.17mm) or more on the front tires and 2/32 (1.58mm) or more on the back tires. rear tires can be retreaded but not the front "steer" tires.

You can fit twenty two inch rims on a Taurus with some major modifications. you need to have the inner wheel wells removed and you need to get special adapters to fit the rims on the factory hubs.

Tire out of balance, bent wheel, loose wheel bearing, defective tire, loose wheel lug nuts, & worn steering or suspension parts.

If it is out of specification the rear, yes. If it is in specification, no. Makes sense, doesn't it!

Some cars have adjustable alignment angles in the rear, and do indeed call for a four-wheel alignment. On many cars, there are no rear adjustments, but the front wheels should be aligned with respect to the rear, what is properly called a thrust-angle alignment. Unfortunately, many shops are not careful with their terminology and use the term "four-wheel alignment" when they really mean "thrust-angle alignment." Even so, they usually correctly distinguish between cars that have alignable rear ends and those that don't, and price the job accordingly.

As to whether your car has an alignable rear end, you'll need to refer to a shop manual to find out.

engine mounts I had the same problem with my 95 aurora. in the very front under the hood ther is a black plastic wind scoop (good place to store oil). i kept my oil there and it broke the mounting screws, creating an annoing vibration at around 60-70 mph. press on the scoop if its loose use self tapping screws to remount.

Do not do that-- I did the speed sensor sends more that it should into the computer and it causes the Transmission shifting issue which I have.

Smaller tires go faster while your computer is programmed to read the velocity of 16inch tire, my speedometer shows 20mile while I'm going 25 and on freeway it shows 50 while I'm going 60-- in high-speed it really kicks when trany wants to chagne the gear.

Michelin motorcycle tires do not have an alignment mark. The tires are very close when manufactured. You are generally balancing the wheel as opposed to the tire. If you have any specific Michelin motorcycle tire questions please contact me.

Please visit our website at http://www.proaligner.com to learn how to align all motorcycle tires.

Thank you. Added by Toiletbrushx: I helped the guy at the shop mount my Michelins this past weekend. I also asked where the mark was, and he said that Michelins don't have an exterior mark like most tires. The alignment point is the tiny barcode on the bead surface. He lined the bar codes up with the valve stems and the front came out perfectly balanced. The rear needed only a .5 weight.