Wheel Alignment and Balancing

If you mean the one on the far left, and you mean the one that doesn't move, then that is simply a foot rest! http://minicoopertuning.blogspot.com/

No... The tire is to big and would not "bead" on the rim correctly.

* A shudder or vibration when accelerating. * Excessive play in either the inboard or outboard joints can sometimes cause this, but the most likely cause is a worn inboard plunge joint. These kinds of vibrations can also be caused by a bad intermediate shaft bearing on transaxles with equal length halfshafts. On FWD vehicles with transverse-mounted engines, this kind of vibration can also be caused by loose or deteriorated engine/transaxle mounts. For this reason, the rubber bushings in the upper "torque strap" or "dog bone" on these engines should also be inspected to rule out this possibility.

In most dictionaries, it is "hwEl" where "E" is a long e sound. Some show a second prounounciation as "wEl" which would have the silent 'h'. So, the answer is, it can be considered correct either way.

Normally tire out of balance or bent wheel.

No. New tires does not change alignment settings as alignment settings done with tie rods, camber and caster bolts and not affecetd after tyre changing. Yaa But it should taken under consideration that after changing tyres its better to check alignment because there can be little change in alignment readings due to difference in tyres depths of old and new tyres.

New tyres change balancing settings so wheel balincing is must check after changing tyres.

i wanna kno 2

yes.

but the biggest preventatives are proper tire pressure and alignment angles (toe, camber)

if you are still running stock size tires and you are in need of a camber adjustment you most likely need ball joints as there realy is no adjustment of camber or caster from the factory. most folks when doing any mods (lift or tire size change) or maintenance on these frontends will install camber adjustment sleaves/bushings in the top ball joints when doing so. they cost from $80 -$120 a set and require compleat disassembly of the stearing spindle/knuckle assembly and you will need to replace all four ball joints at this time anyway as you will distroy them taking it all apart. while your at it it would be foolish not to replace all three u-joints in the half shafts with greasable ones as the will only cost you about $17 each and to do them requiers the full disassembly you have already performed. if you choose to do this project the best place to get the part would be rockauto.com you will save about $100 in total on name brand parts. "moog ball joints and precision u-joints". also replace the knuckle to spindle seals, they are about $14 each and will be shot too. you will need a press to do this job or take the knuckles to your local shop to have them press the old balls out and the new ones in. after its all done you will need an alignment. i am doing this job now on my 97' f-250 and i can tell you all 4 ball joints, 3 u-joints and the 2 knuckle seals from rockauto.com shipped to me was $260 i chose not to install the camber adjustment sleaves as that was not a problem with my 1997 f-250. as i was doing all of this do to the fact i was changing my gear ratio from 4:10 to1 to a more mileage friendly 3:55 to 1. i hope all this typing helps someone. any further questions feel free to email me jeff njcableguy@comcast.net

Brake pads may be worn down to the brake "squealers".

No way of telling, different designs will have different weights.

Hi, It is relatively difficult to answer this question without more information. First, the best thing is to use the same speed rated, size and width tires on all four wheels. Also, the tires should have the same tread pattern (this will optimize handling, especially in bad weather). BMW recommends that all four tires be of the same speed rating, size, height and width. They also recommend using a full set of M+S winter tires to prevent problems with ABS braking in the winter. You might be able to get along with two sets of different tires, two in front, two in back, if the are the same speed rating, size, height and width. The problem is that your handling and braking will most likely suffer (due to the different tread patterns) and you would have to exercise great caution until you got the "feel" of the vehicle under these new conditions. If you are just driving around town at low speeds and not driving at high speeds on the highways, you could probabvly get away with this. Still, if you had a choice and the money, it is best to keep all four tires on your BMW the same make, tread pattern size and width. This is my opinion only, and other BMW drivers might completely object to even thinking about using different tires on the vehicle. Hope this helps.

Probably not. The rim may not clear the brakes.

They can with some triming and with the right offset, 22 will clear with no cutting. buy YES 24"s can be done!

if you have independent suspention front and rear chances are a 4 wheel alignment can be done typically front wheel drive vehicles but not all.

Severe Vibration and premature tire wear. The wheel bearings and suspension also take a beating. Replace the bent wheel. Thanks for the info. Found a great deal in Ebay.

The meaning of 22 rims can be described as the measurement of the tire rims, 22 inches. Rim sizes vary by vehicle and by price. The larger the rims, the higher the price.

Rotate and balance, then alignment.

I have two 15" Cerwin Vega Woofers -- they have heavy red rubber roll surrounds, die cast alloy baskets, rated at 400watts each and 4ohm impedance.

They have massive magnets and were bought from a retailer who removed them from a demonstration pair that had damaged (scratched) cabinets, they have been boxed and stored in my spare bedroom since purchased and are a matched pair.

if you have ever spun out without moving then it would wear the rear tires more than the front.

Good idea TO DO SO

14 inch wheels fir 14 inch tires, 15 inch wheels fit 15 inch tires.

The difference is 1 inch.

I'm assuming "take it to a tire shop" is not an option for some reason.

1. Put something like Liquid Wrench on it. This includes the threads and the base. Tap with a hammer (tap, not beat), let sit ten minutes, try to remove with your regular lug wrench. 1a. Put more liquid wrench on it and let it sit for a few hours.

If that doesn't work, try 2. Get a better lug wrench. A four-way is MUCH better than the "L" shaped wrench that comes with the car. 2a. Get some pipe that fits over the ends of your four-way, so you can get a longer lever for more torque. Step on the left side while lifting the right.

If that doesn't work, try 3. Borrow a 1/2 drive air impact wrench.

If that doesn't work, try 4. Heat the nut with a torch. A propane torch will probably work, but an oxy-acetylene will have a higher probability of success. Keep the heat just on the nut. Yeah, all the oil you put on it earlier will burn off and make a big stink. But when you heat the nut it will expand faster than the stud inside, loosening the nut. Try to take it off with your better lug wrench and/or impact wrench.

By this point, that trip to the tire shop ought to be looking like a pretty smart choice. Even if you have to tow it.

!! If you're going to try a torch with a magnesium or aluminum wheel, don't trust someone blabbering on the internet, find someone who really knows what he's doing. You could damage the very expensive wheel or kill yourself (no, I'm not kidding.) Or maybe even ruin your car. Both materials have melting points way below what you can achieve with a regular propane torch, and magnesium can catch fire. Even if you don't visibly melt the aluminum, you could very easily ruin the temper of the metal, leaving it much weaker than it was before. !!

If that doesn't work, you could try 5. See if you can get a nut splitter on it. This is a tool that you can put over a nut, then tighten it to drive a wedge into the nut, splitting it in half.

If that doesn't work, 6. You're probably talking cutting torch, which will probably damage the stud, but then the stud is probably already damaged. What I said earlier about mag and aluminum goes triple here.

The above answer covers pretty much anything you can do to take off a stuck lug nut but, if ur going to use an air impact wrench make sure u don't impact it more then a second or two because anything longer then that well break off the stud. trust me this happened to me today in my auto tech class in high school. And to replace the studs takes hardwork.

From New Reader:

To make a long story short, I had a nut that would not come off an aluminum wheel. I worked on it until I rounded the nut and even a nut extractor with impact wrench would not work.

I ground the nut flat with the wheel, took a center punch and marked the center of the stud (Hard Material). Then, with a "carbide bur" (Round Nose) and a high speed rotory tool (15,000-30,000 RPM) I ground into the Stud and Nut until there was almost no lug nut left hanging onto the stud threads. (Took about 10 minutes) (Hold firm with pressure toward nut. It will try to jump) Then with a punch and hammer on the center of the stud, I taped the stud, stripping the remaining threads and the wheel came loose.

Stud will need to be knocked out and replaced.

Hmm interesting but not the way I do it. As to Mickey Mouse 1/2" drive air wrenches most of them are so weak they are hardly worth bothering with. Some years ago I wanted to dismantle a jack hammer (precision items actually and very sensitive to dirt and rust). I drove my car on it to hold it down then used a 3/4" drive socket set with a scaffold pole for extra leverage. Car wasn't heavy enough! At the tyre fitters none of their air wrenches would look at it so I took the jackhammer to a heavy goods service station. First a 3/4" drive air wrench was tried but it was a waste of time. Luckily they had a 1" drive wrench which worked like magic. For wheel nuts those cheap 12 volt impact wrenches can be surpringly effective as they produce a lot more torque than the average 1/2" air wrench. If they last for a year of hobby use its money well spent. A portable spot welder is another way to crack tough nuts, 2 volts at 7000 amps or so makes a lot of heat, best of all the heat is concentrated in the nut so nothing else gets burnt. No expensive gas bottle rental agreements either! If one should ever get asked to "look at" a Porsche the problem is different. The nuts are aluminum and fit into deep holes in the alloy wheel. The actual nut is mushroom shaped and the "mushroom stalk" is hexagon shaped. When the hexagon rounds off one has a problem! Trying to drill away the nut won't be successful and the wheel will get damaged but with the correct size of holesaw the job is a snip. All that is needed is a holesaw that just clears the stud, Voila! Please note that heating studs or nuts up to red heat destroys the temper of the steel so in an ideal world they should be replaced. An alternative is to harden and temper the parts again. To harden heat to red then drop the part into old crankcase oil. To temper (reduce the hardness/brittleness) clean the parts until there is a shiny spot. Heat gently and quench in water when the correct oxide colour occurs. Blue with purple spots should be OK. Doing it this way one can re-use the parts, - very useful if one lives in the outback.

Whats to best rotors for 24 in rims

heat