I just went through this with my '89. The part that was bad was the Ignition Control Module. The Haynes manual said it was located inside engine compartment on the firewall on passenger side. I found it on my Jeep in the engine compartment, driver's side wheel well near the bottom. Three screws hold it in place and they are accessed from the outside of the wheel well.

Finally! Other Jeeps with the same problem. I have identical year/make and constantly have the message display telling me to 'service 4 wheel drive switch' beep beep. The warning message varies with frequency, displays once or twice a month, sometimes all day for a week. The only place I found the word 'switch' was in a Jeep repair manual. the switch was located in the Transfer case & the manual said don't touch,see a professional. I've been driving like this for months. I see the message above, their jeep switch was replaced but the computer warning still flashes. Any luck out there?

According to the mechanic who works on my 94 Jeep it's one of three things. 1) Corrosion on the connector to the switch (which is located on top of the transfer case). 2) A bad switch. Part cost about $22.00 or 3) A bad console display. he says they have had a fair number of console display units fail. That one runs about $240.

My Jeep display it only once in a while. I have checked the connections and they are fine so the switch replacement is next. If that doesn't fix it I will opt to ignore the error.

try disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes. bad news .. you have to reset your clock and radio presets .. good news this may reset the info ctr computer and get rid of the message providing that the switch fixed the problem . It was explained to me that sometimes the computer gets a hiccup (I think it must be a windows platform lol) and a good old fashioned resetting is all it takes

I have a '93 Grand Cherokee. When this same message started to display on and off, I ran to the dealer. After a year and two new switches, the message goes non-stop. I gave up and removed the chime disk in the under-dash box. The message still displays, but I don't have to hear it.

I have a 95 GC that has ran the same message for the last 4 years. We have taken it to 3 mechanics and the said take it to the dealership, as they had never head of a 4WD switch. The dealereship didnt have a clue.

It turns at the 99% of the time the problem is a bad Vehicle information center. It now constantaly runs a warning that the tail lights are out (even though they are orperating normally), and constantly resets itself back to January 1st at midnight. Not only that, the VIC is interfering with the alarm system, shutting down the starter, and of course causing starting problems.

Here us a simple solution. Remove the VIC and throw it in the nearest body of deep water.

i just unhooked the connector at the transfer case. cheap and effective. idiot lights are for idiots.

Unplug the 4wd Switch Sensor on top of the trasfer case. Tape it up to something secure.

Ha i just had the same thing happen to me tonight on my 94 grand Cherokee Laredo. i was like so i put it in N, then the transfercase in N then in 4L then put the trans in 1st, moved forward a couple feet then back into N and back into 4AllTime and it hasent come back on, mind you my jeep has over 175k so i guess that's expected.

if you unplug the chime disk then the power doors locks wont lock, anyone else have an idea how to get the chime go away

In the engine compartment, passenger side, on top of the wheel well hump closer to the firewall is where it ends, follow the wires coming off of the alternator, you will have to remove the wires from the wire loom, the wire will be connected with a thick rubber insulation on either side of the fusible link(the words 'fusible link' will be printed on the side of the fusible link wire) then it has an eye end and is connected to a single connector panel with a few other wires this is all on the wheel well.

2

No

A cylinder has one line and no vertices. Cylinders have no edges or corner where lines can meet. It is a closed plane.

Around 5200-5400 lbs

10 degrees BTDC @ 600 rpm in drive. high altitude 16 degrees BTDC @ 600 rpm in drive.

Conestoga Wagon

Chuckwagon

Stagechoaches

Sheep Wagon

and............................................

Covered Wagon

The best oil is oil with high zinc content which may be synthetic or regular with zinc additive.

10w-40 oil is the best weight.

Amsoil makes a great oil with high zinc.

At one time gasoline came with lead that would keep the engine & valves cooler & since this AMC-360 engine runs hot-this oil seems to help with the additive.

check the easy things first.

1. bad radiator cap or no coolant

2. bad hoses

3. leaks in radiator

4. check thermostat (usually good to change this anyway)

if problem is not corrected by these:

5. check fan clutch if applicable ( my jeep is an 86), the fan should run constantly

6. lastly the water pump.

pay attention to when it tries to overheat.

8. if it only heats up when your stopped, something as simple as a no fan shroud or faulty shroud could be the problem.

hope this helps

My wife's 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee did the same thing a few years ago. Long story short, it was the camshaft position sensor. On the 6 cylinder engine, it is located on the driver's side of the back of the engine where the transmission bell housing bolts to the engine block. Hope this helps.

Answer I drive an 89 Jeep grand Wagoneer with the 360 motor. I was having the same problem with mine and I was so frustrated I was ready to scrape the jeep. I found a mechanic that told me to change the ECM module. It is a 4"square silver box on the drivers fender. Since I change that my jeep has never stalled due to the heat. I hope this fixes the problem. If it does not you will need to repair or replace the distributer The ECM module operates the distributer.

ATF + 4

Here is the address to the International Full-Size Jeep Association website: http://www.ifsja.org/index.shtml Plenty of info, know how, etc.

Ignition timing is the primary reason.

After you reset the timing. check to be sure the ignition components are working.

Also check the carb. is it clean and adjusted properly? do you smell gas. Is it flooding?

8 flat rate hours

blue/white-remote yellow-battery red-accessory black-ground wh/blk-Lfrt gry/blk-Rfrt grn/blk-Lrear prp/blk-Rrear

The horn relay on my 86 was taped to the wiring harness on top of the fuse panel.

The oil pump is part of the timing cover on the AMC 360 in your Jeep, not a small quick job, figure ~5-6 hours shop time and 300+ in parts (assuming you need new cover due to the pump bore being worn out) The other issue is the only new covers out there aftermarket with poor QC, so there is a chance your engine will start eating distributor gears after the job is done, due to the poor quality of parts available.

If the shift lever on the floor won't move to engage there is most likely a linkage problem.

If the linkage seems to move and you shift the lever under the dash from 2wd to 4wd and the transfer case does not engage look for a vacuum problem. the lines can be very brittle and break easily. There is a vacuum motor on the transfer case that must work in order to engage the 4wd. if all of these seem to work then the problem is likely to be internal.

Under the car right behind the front axle mid line. Chris

There are several reasons why this may happen.

1. check your timing

2. fuel flow / fuel preasure. carb is not operating properly.

3. depending upon the load your engine may no longer be strong enough to pull it.

check your timing and vacuum advance and vacuum leaks. from there check fuel delivery system.