Just did this last night! Open the rear door. From the inside of the door look through the crack between the door and the inside of the tail light assy. There you will see two "star" head screws. You need a star screw driver at leat 6" long to reach them. After removing the two screws come around to the outside and pull the lamp assy from the body. There are two clips holding it to the body and it doesn't come loose easily! After removing the lamp from the body the top bulb unscrews from the lamp assy and pulls out. The replacement bulb # is 3157. .
Straight from the dealer, you want to unscrew the light first, then pull it straight out. It might sound light it is breaking, but it is just the plastic pins rubbing the metal. You may need to use a flat head to pry the light away from the body enough so you can get your fingers back there. Remember pull it straight out, and do not worry, it goes on easier then it comes off.
WARNING: DEATH OR SERIOUS INJURY CAN OCCUR IF MAGNETICALLY SENSITIVE DEVICES ARE EXPOSED TO THE RELEARN MAGNET. MAGNETS CAN AFFECT PACEMAKERS. CAUTION: Never attempt to train more than one vehicle at a time. System is capable of reading tire pressure sensor transmissions from other nearby vehicles while in train mode. Each time a wheel rotation or tire pressure sensor replacement occurs the tire pressure sensors must be retrained. This is necessary to inform the Electronic Vehicle Information Center (EVIC) that a sensor change was made and the new locations of the sensors. Retraining is accomplished through the EVIC used in conjunction with a Re-learn Magnet, Special Tool 8821. NOTE: Use the following procedure to retrain all five (5) tire pressure sensors. No attempt should be made to retrain individual sensors. # Retrieve Re-learn Magnet, Special Tool 8821. # Press MENU Button on EVIC until "RETRAIN TIRE SENSORS - NO" is displayed. # Press STEP button to select "YES". There is a 60 second timer for training the first sensor and a 30 second timer between training the remaining sensors. If either of these timers expire, the EVIC will abort the training procedure. If at any time the EVIC display reads "TRAINING ABORTED", move the vehicle ahead at least one foot and repeat the entire retraining procedure. # Press MENU button to start retraining. Display will read "TRAIN LEFT FRONT TIRE" NOTE: The order for retraining all five sensors is: * Left Front * Right Front * Right Rear * Left Rear * Spare # Starting at left front tire, place Re-learn Magnet over valve stem. Within approximately 5 seconds, vehicle horn will chirp indicating training complete for that particular sensor. Remove the magnet. # Repeat step (6) on remaining sensors as indicated by EVIC until all five TPM sensors positions are trained. # Once EVIC displays "TRAINING COMPLETE", pressing either STEP, C/T, RESET or MENU button will exit training routine.
It depends on the year model and the model of Liberty. Most, came with a OE size of P225/75R16 with an optional size of P235/70R16.
If you have the 42RE transmission like I do, there is a picture located here along with a brief description on removing it, it is located on the drivers side right about the transmission fluid pan.
YOU CANT THEY ARE SELF SET.
I have a 2006 lberty and there is a star key type screw on each headlight near te radiator that allows you to adjust the beam up and down. Its recessed just below an opening on top of the light.
key on engine running is 31 psi with regualtor vacuume hose disconnected 39-41 psi key on engine running is 31 psi with regualtor vacuume hose disconnected 39-41 psi
The shifter lights in the 1999 Grand Cherokee is not a light bulb, but rather a thin EL panel.
There are two parts to it, a voltage resistor, and the EL panel itself.
You need to remove the console first. There are 2 screws under the front rubber pad, two under the cup holder, two in the bin. Remove those six first, take the storage bin out, then slide the rear cupholder out, remove the two screws under the cup holder, and one in front of it.
There are a total of 6 flat screws, and 3 self tapping screws you have removed.
Put the parking brake on, shift the tranny to N, and the transfer case to the middle position if equipped.
Remove the entire console. Slide the shifter beezel as far up vertically as you can. There are 4 clips you ned to remove to do it.
You will see a blue and black wire running into the back. Follow those wires to the resistor. You will see a transparent EL panel attached to the resistor by two clips.
Usually, one or both of these clips has come loose, causing the light to work intermittantly. Clip them back on, and turn on the headlights to confirm that the light works correctly now.
Re-install everything in the opposite order.
I've fixed a lot of fuses. You've just got to pull. The tool they give you might not work, try some needle-nose pliers. Just grab it and pull. Maybe wiggle it a little. Sometimes they're just stubborn.
raise hood. remove grill by removeing black popout buttons along the top. tilt grill foward. remove turning signal bulb. pull on bottom of on side of grill so it unsnaps. remove headlight ring. pull out lamp. remove bulb. do not touch bulb. reverse procedure.
It is inside the fuel tank, part of the pump module.
The windshield washer fluid level is low.
The windshield washer fluid level is low.
On one side of the engine, there will be a cover marked "OIL" or a symbol like an oil can. This is where engine oil is added.
Check the dipstick also valvetrain will be louder if it's run dry and oil light undoubtedly on as well
just found the answer it is mopar frictionmodifier additive
you can't flip the rear seat up. I believe the proper procedure would be to remove or loosen the rear seat using the bolts on the rear floor pan. They might have carpet flaps covering them. Carefully check the rear floor pan. **On an 02' liberty the tire jack is under the passenger rear seat. There is a knob on the front face. Simply unscrew the knob to remove the jack.**
To add to this... This initial answer really helped me out for my 2004 jeep liberty. Let me add a few more details to "give back" to those who helped me out.
I had first taken off the bottom plastic shroud which sits straight up above the floor board
and down below and back under from the the glove box. This was where I was kinda being steered from book I was trying to use to do the replacement of the resistor.
Then I came in and googled and found this pointing me to take out the glove box... from there I saw the resistor mounted into the firewall so took out the two bolts and pulled out the resistor with the wiring harness still plugged in. Then the challenging part at that point was to get the harness unplugged from the resistor. As was mentioned below, it is "non-intuitive" as to how to do this. By flipping over the assembly, you will see a sliding red kind of "latch" which seems to hold the harness plugged into the resistor. I was able to stick a screw driver into the back of that (wiring harness side, not the resistor side) and push it towards the resistor. This seemed to "unlock" things but it still needed some pursuation to finally unplug it.
Also, I'd note that they suggest that you take the negative lead off the battery for this surgery so to prevent any air bag triggering as you are messing around in this area.
Hope this extra detail helps.
I just did this a few months ago. It was pretty basic. You need a new resistor board, first of all. I got mine on eBay for far less than the dealer would've charged. I think there are aftermarket manufacturers of these, so you shouldn't have to pay OEM costs. The resistor device is located behind the glovebox, mounted into the firewall. The glovebox should be fully removed, it will just be a major hindrance if it is left in place. It is fairly obvious where the resistor set is because there is a substantial wiring harness attached to it. This is where my description will get a bit vague because it was so long ago. There are essentially a couple screws/bolts holding the existing resistor unit in the firewall, and there is also some kind of fancy clipping mechanism on the wiring harness. These all need to be removed obviously, and installation is simply the reverse. I remember nearly breaking the harness locking device b/c it was so non-intuitive, but I also think I remember that the lock wasn't essential, i.e. the harness would probably stay connected regardless.
it really depends on the mechanic, between 25.oo dollars and 44.00 dollas.
do it yourself, on you tube.
P1494 Leak Detection Pump Switch or Mechanical Fault
Check the vaccum supply to the LDP pump, also check the wiring to the LDP.