Alternators

First and foremost, make sure you have a diagram before removing the old belt. If there isn

Hey, It's probably thatthe alternator is a bad one - It does happen, check it out.

It appears simple, just a bit exhaustivel; it looks like the power steering pump has to be removed. I am going to attempt it, wish me luck. I will post my results.

On the right side of the engine, below the belt driven items. There are three bolts holding it in place, including a very long one that is attached through the bottom belt pulley. You will need to remove the radiator in order to get the alternator out. There is no way around it besides lifting the engine. It is possible to remove the alternator, but there is not enough room to maneuver the thing out of the engine unless you remove the radiator. Unless you are or know a handy mechanic in your family, you will need to pay to have this done. It takes about an hour and a half to do.

you have to remove the passenger's side front tire, rotor, caliper, and axle, trust me it is easier just to get someone to do it. Yes I agree. After you remove the drive axel, you need to unbolt the motor mount and jack up the engine to make enough room to get the alternator out. Also be careful when removing the drive axel, I broke the anti-lock brake sensor as well. Unless you have all of the prober tools in a fully stocked garage, take it to Ford.

Easy. Use a 14mm socket to loosen the bolt which goes thru the tensioner pulley. This allows you to adjust the tension. The bolt which adjusts the tension has its head pointing at the ground and if you look up from under the van, just to the right of the oil filter (presuming you are facing the front of the van) you'll see that bolt head behind the tensioner pulley. Again use a 14mm socket (on an extension bar) and turn ccw to loosen and cw to tighten.

It is built into the alternator.

Neither as that may or may not work. Test the alternator with a DC Volt meter. It should read between 13.5 to 15.5 volts with engine running at idle. Or drive it to the nearest auto parts store where they will check it for free in most cases.

Unhooking a battery cable with the engine running is a sure way to damage a computer. There will be a voltage spike when pulling the cable off, which may ruin any electronics onthe car.

Probably loose drivebelt. or alternator belt of it is seperate.

Because it is a generator. It picks up kinetic energy from the wheel, and turns it into electric energy.

magneto is dc

There's absolutely nothing wrong with using the term 'alternating voltage', if you are describing voltage rather than current. However, In engineering terminology, the abbreviation a.c. is considered to be an adjective. So, it is also quite normal to talk about an 'a.c. voltage', in just the same way as we describe an 'a.c. system', or an 'a.c. motor', etc.

Its long job, first jack up car and place on axle stands. take the wheel off.

from the top of the engine disconnect the battery negative. disconnect the red wire going to the alternator and also the pig tail connector also.

next you will need the pulley belt tension-er tool £15.00 on ebay....locate the two round posts in the two square holes in the pulley apply force the spring will release tension pull off belt off pulley. Next undone 2 x 15mm bolts from bottom of alternator. go through wheel arch where you removed wheel. next go on top and undo 13mm bolt on top of alternator. next put alternator on top of studs on bottom. here you will need trox type socket to remove them.... the alternator wont come out otherwise. Alternator comes out through wheel arch after you disconnect outer tie rod end...use a tie rod end re leaser to undo it. install is reversal of procedure.

I had this problem and found it to be the transmitter for body check was being turned on & off overnight by signals transmitted from outside sources, These can be A neighbours garage door opener ,Broadband for computers,There are a number of things,but I think Broadband is what caused my prob.

The solution for me was to disconnect the Ariel wire from the transmitter which is situated behind a panel that is behind the rear right passenger seat, easy fix.

Side effect is you won't be able to unlock or lock your car from the key fob unless you press lock or unlock beside where the transmitter is situated.

Alternatively you can buy a new transmitter that has been upgraded to prevent outside interference that is causing your range rover to have sleepless nights waking up in the morning totally stuffed .

Need to know a few things about your olds. What type of Cutlass is it? Engine size? This will make for a better answer for you. Need to know a few things about your olds. What type of Cutlass is it? Engine size? This will make for a better answer for you.

You will need a voltmeter to tell this, unless you are a Psychic lol.

With the engine off check the battery voltage at the battery terminals (it should be about 12.6 volts) start the car and the voltage should go to 13.6 to 14.6 volts. This tells you that the alternator is trying to charge the battery. If the battery is old (or it has been sulfated - undercharged or oxidized - overcharged) it may not take the charge.

Many local autoparts stores can make this diagnoses for you.

TommyTrouble

Tommy Trouble has got it nailed.

Borrow, rent or buy a volt meter and test the battery voltage with the engine running. Have someone take the rpms up to about 1500 and test the battery voltage. If it's very much above 14 VDC, you have a faulty regulator. Ideal voltage is 13.5 but if it's anywhere near 17 or more it will destroy the battery. On the other hand, if one or more of the cells are shorted out, normal voltage will cause the remaining battery cells to boil.

once a car starts the bttery is not more necessary to run the car . the generator takes over. in this case i think the regulator failed and the battry since is connected died also.

Rocky_B - See my entry here for more things you might want to check:

What could be wrong if the battery light stays on and the battery still runs down on a 1996 windstar after installing a new battery and alternator

I recently replaced the alternator on my wife's 2000 Saab 9-5 sedan. It has a 3.0 liter V-6 engine. I have listed the following steps. !. Remove the negative battery cable from the battery. 2. Loosen the right front wheel lug nuts. 3. Jack up the automobile and place jack stands in appropriate positions. Leave room to access the alternator from underneath the car. 4. Complete removal of the right front wheel. 5. Remove the right front lower splash shield. 6. Release tension on the serpentine belt at the tensioner. 7. Slip the belt off of the tensioner and the alternator. 8. Attach an engine hoist at the front of the engine. This is a transverse mounted engine and the hoist will need to be attached near the engine mount located at the right front fender inner fender. 9. Remove the top portion of this mount. 10. Loosen the rear engine mount at the firewall. This mount is slotted and will permit you to pull the engine forward toward the right front corner of the engine compartment. This will give access to the alternator. 11. Remove the two bolts that attach the serpentine belt tensioner and remove the tensioner. 12. Remove the top alternator mounting bolt. Do this from the engine compartment side. 13. Remove the lower alternator mounting bolt. Do this from underneath the car. 14. Turn the rear of the alternator up to access and remove the electrical leads. 15. Remove the alternator from the engine compartment. 16. Install the new alternator in the REVERSE ORDER.

Heat, lack of lubrication, contamination of the lubricant such as water or dirt,entering the bearing, or carrying a heavier load than the bearing was designed to handle.

If it is not keeping the battery charged then it is defective. Start the engine and connect a volt meter set on 20 Volts DC to the battery posts. Red probe to positive and black to negative. You should get a reading of from 13.5 to 16 volts. Any less or more and the alternator is defective.

Replacing a lower amp generator with a higher one won't hurt. The 130 amp generator doesn't put out 130 amps, it is just capable of generating more amps if called on to do so by the system.

For example, if your explorer only uses 10 amps, then the 130 amp generator will only put out 10 amps.

locate the alternator take off the belt put new one on then the belt and your done

It's your basic electromagnetic device. Pressing the pickup wheel of the dynamo against a bicycle wheel in motion cause the inner parts of the dynamo to spin. What's spinning is a pair of magnets surrounded by coils. When the magnetic field through a coil changes you get electricity. That electricity can then power a light.

Yes you can take negative off on all cars and test it if it dies alternator is bad if car keeps running then its good.

In older (not computer controlled) cars you can, but on some newer (computer control) cars is not recommended. Some newer cars will turn off even if the alternator is working good. Use a volt meter to test the voltage. Connect it to the battery and it should read a little above 12 volts when its off and 13 to 14 volts when its turn on. If the voltage does not go up, then the alternator is not charging.