Alternators

The alternator on a Ford E150 van is replaced by loosing the retaining bolts, removing the belt, disconnecting the wiring harness, and unbolting the alternator. A replacement alternator can then be put into place and reattached.

Possibly the voltage regulator has a poor ground or poor +12v?

eather the battery has a dead cell or if it is farly new and was dead for a period of time in the winter will kill the battery and cause it not to charge.... or it could be the altinator that is bad and not charging

I'll take it that its a basic belt drive alternator with a mount and cables running to and from it. With that, take the belt off that drives the pulley, and whatever belts that prevent you from taking the one you need off. ** Before you start working, ensure the battery is not connected for safety and disconnect the +(red) cable from the alternator and whatever other cables are attached. Unbolt the alternator from its mounts and MAKE SURE the new alternator has the same output and design or you could burn up a lot of electronics and even your battery. Good Luck -- Boost

1.Disconnect the negative battery cable 2.Raise vehicle and support it 3.Disconnect them wire harness from the alternator electrical connections 4.Loosen the alternator lower mounting bolt.Working from above,loosen the upper adjustment lockbolt,back off the adjustment bolt,swivel the alternator toward the engine and then release the drivebelt from the alternator pulley 5.Unscrew and remove the alternator upper and lower mounting bolts and washers,then remove alternator from its mounting bracket.

Generally, yes.

Find a volt meter, check the battery voltage with the engine stopped, it should be a around 12 V. Now start the engine and the voltage should be around 13.5 V. If the alternator isn't putting out about 13.5 (+/- .5 V) the replacment alternator could be bad or you might have a bad connection somewhere.

Check for a key off draw (or parasitic draw) Should be less than .5 Amps

First you have to disconnect the power from the battery. Then you remove the belt,and all electrical connections. Then you take out the bolts holding it on the brackets and bring it out from under the car. - Disconnect Battery

- Remove Air filter intake components.

- Remove fuel hose to carb (maybe)

- Remove 12mm upper alternator mount bolt

- Dissconnect 10mm Alternator positive connection.

- Dissconnect Alternator connector plug.

- Remove 2*12mm lower alternator mount bolts.

- Remove 2*10mm lower alternator shield bolts.

- Remove 2*14mm exhaust pipe to manifold bolts.

-Wiggle the old alternator out and the new in...trust, it works

IF YOU INTENDED TO REPLACE THE ALTERNATOR BELT...

- Slacken the underside 10mm main belt tension pulley to allow alternator belt R&R.

This was hard to do on my 86 2.5L 4 cylinder because in order to put the new alternator belt on... you have to get the other belt off... first what you have to do is loosen up the 2 pivot bolts on the AC compressor from underneath the car.. mine were pretty stubborn but i eventually got em to budge... once you can move the AC, remove the crank/water pump/AC belt. then loosen up the alternator pivot bolt located on the underside of the alternator...(this can be done from either top or bottom) once you can move the alternator.. slip the belt onto the alternator pulley and around the water pump and crank. then tighten the alternator pivot bolts while putting as much possible tension onto the belt and re-tighten alternator into place. then put or replace crank/water pump/AC belt and re-tighten the AC while putting as much possible tension on the belt by pushing the AC forward with a pry bar or screwdriver. good luck

You can do this although,Why would you want to? If you need extra power from the alternator then you can buy an alternator that has a higher output. Some cars do not allow you to upgrade to a higher output alternator though (My Mazda Protege5) In this case things get a little more complicated..... You must customize a mount for the second alternator (I removed my AC pump and put alternator there) This way I did not need another belt etc. Just had to make a custom mounting bracket. Then you will need to wire it up, which would be specific to your application.

yes if the alternator isnt charging the battery correctly then it couldnt be sending ecu false signals when my alternator was playing up , my central locking my hazards interior light and rear wiper stopped working

A gas regulator helps to maintain a steady flow of gas. A propane tank is an example of an item with a gas regulator. One opens up the tank to allow the right amount of gas to flow to the BBQ.

check the distributer cap

If that's dollars it is.

because it's a 1997 ford explorer

I found this on another site. I will try it myself tomorrow.

"Thanks for the reply. I got it off by removing the window washer resevior, disconected the wiper transmission and removed the pully bracket and left brace. What fun it will be getting the new one in. All that for an alt. Vans are a pain "

Disconnect the battery. Remove the serpentine belt. Unhook the wires from the alternator. Remove the mounting bolts, and remove the alternator. Reverse the process to install the new unit.

The starter in a 1991 Nissan Sentra is located on the driver's side of the engine compartment. It is easily spotted down in the gap between the engine head and the air intake and battery areas... It looks like a fat cylinder at the top of the engine and transmission joining.

Turn the belt inside out. you need to get it under the power steering belt and to the other side of the pulley. You can use a crescent wrench to turn the pulley and get the belt under the other one. Turn the belt back right side out. loosen the alternator bolt and place the belt around the alternators pulley. Tighten the alternator bolt.

I have now managed to take the alternator off the mount and adjujstment bracket. However, as I wrote below, the adjustment bracket needs to be removed before being able to remove the alternator from the engine compartment. Otherwise, you will not be able to remove it. You will have to turn it to find the best way to get it out, and, remember what way that was as when you put the new one in, you will need to put it in the same way.

I am currently looking at replacing my alternator. I have a hatchback '87 323. The first thing, unplug the negative from your battery. This will eliminate any current on the vehicle or engine compartment. Next, you will have to remove the alternator belt adjuster bracket, so you can get the alternator out. From there on, it should be fairly simple. The space is limited, so you may have to remove the alternator tightly against the manifold. Then, its home bound from there.

I have not done the whole work yet on mine as it just died today, but a little!

if its anything like my mx6 u need to loosen the 17 mm nut on the pulley on the pass side a tight fit then from on top the adjustment 8 or 10mm i think should move this pulley to loosen or tighten the belt make sure u loosen the big nut on pulley though or u will bend the long threaded adj. rod

For the 92' Take the sleave off the connecting wire, pop the tabs on both sides of the box, remove the corresponding screws/bolts and it should slip right out.

Unbolt entire fuse box. Pull those three fuses out the bottom of the fuse box then unbolt fuses, replace fuse. Push fuses back into fuse box and rebolt after putting bottom covers back on then bolt back to fender then put top back on!!! wasn't that easy!!!

This was on a 1996 Toyota corolla!!!

Check the burned out fuse able link. I had the same problem the battery light remained on when driving and killed my battery. i replaced the alternator the battery and new negative and positive wires but still had the battery light to come on. i also reground the negative terminal cause the corner broke off the battery tray due to rust. So after changing all that, i found out that the only other thing it could be was the fuse able link. Its the wire that goes from your alternator to the starter solenoid. The wire starts out red from your alternator and goes all the way to the starter solenoid about 6 inches before you get to the starter solenoid the wire changes colors to a light blue color then connects to the solenoid. That blue wire is your problem. That has a fuse inside of it and it usually melts or gets fried. 2 ways to fix it, find another wire like that or you can simply strait wire it with the existing wire you got already or go by new 8-10 gauge wire about 1ft and a half and 2 new terminals and strait wire it, and every thing will be ok i did it to mine 45,000 miles ago and have had no problem

Trust me i went through the head ache of changing everything thing in the car far as the charging system goes. When it comes to the charging system there are really only a few components. 1 The Battery. 2 The alternator. 3 Solenoid /or starter solenoid.4 Positive and negative wires. 5 A good Ground 6. Fuse able Link

If the link is broken nothing will work and the alternator will not read on machine and have no power to it.

Good luck hope this helps

hey i just had to do this. my advice is to CHECK it before u take it off, and if u have the money it is DEFINATELY worth takin to a repair shop. disconnect negative battery connection. remove the serp belt from crank/idler/alternator side (driver side) . remove mud covers from underside to axcess radiator support. remove 4 bolts for radiator support. support radiator and trans cooler with a jack stand. push radiator foreward and remove alternator. replace in reverse order. hopefully the alternator is actually bad