Alternators

disconnect the battery then look at the alternator should be right on top of the motor in the back left corner maybe 2 or 3 blots holding it in as well as 2 wires running to it very simple

A battery that is only at 50% is not a good battery unless it just needs charging.

Yes, because a bad coil will not allow the engine to run. But if the engine is running then the coil has nothing to do with the alternator charging the battery.

You go to a mechanic.

It will destroy the battery.

More than likely they connect to the positive and negative polarities of the power source.

Get a good digital volt meter.Set the meter to DC volts at the 20 V range. Start and run the unit at 1500 RPM. Use the probes of the DVM on the battery posts. 13.6 to 14.0 Volts indicates the regulator operating. If lower suspect that the battery is low on charge, the alternator belt is loose or there is a bad diode in the alternator. If the voltage is higher than 14.0 V assume the regulator is bad and needs to be replaced. To check for bad diodes set the meter to AC Volts at the lowest range available (5V should do). Probe the battery, an AC reading greater than about 150-200 milli-Volts indicates a shorted diode. To test the regulation further run accessories (headlights etc.) to make sure the alternator maintains 13.2 Volts or greater. Lower voltage under load can point to a problem with the regulator or alternator.

You dont need a diagram.. just trace the route with the eye.. Besides.. if your going to change the alternator belt.. you might as well change all 3 if its on the V6.. Oh.. and is a PIA job..

Some cars have an external voltage regulator most alternators have internal voltage regulators if your headlights are dim at warm idle tap the gas and they get brighter the voltage regulator is most likely the problem

my battery is still on after changing battery and altnator

I did this recently on Hyundai Accent. First things first is to disconnect the battery to prevent any contact that can produce sparks during the disconnection of the positive (+) supply of the alternator 1. Jack up car. Remove splash guards from bottom. 2. From bottom loosen pivot bolt. 3. From bottom disconnect cables. 4. From top loosen adjustment bolt and slacken belt. 5. Remove belt from pulley and remove adjustment bolt. 6. From bottom remove pivot bolt. 7. Alternator may have corroded to mounting bracket so work it loose. 8. Find out alternator will not slide out of engine compartment. 9. Loosen radiator mounting bolts. 10. Shift radiator to side to make more room to get alternator out. 11. Install alternator. 12. Put radiator back in its place.

I guess it depends on what year... I too just did an alternator on a 2001 Accent. First, and what the previous forgot, disconnect the negative battery cable. Steps 1 thru 5 are exact. Step 6 is where we differ. 6. From bottom, push alternator up and out of mounting slot, gently work it down and out. 7. The pivot bolt can then be punched out (my bolt had a center mark where a punch would stay, so not to damage the threads) and then put into the replacement. Re-assemble in reverse order.

Last night I did this repair on 1999 accent. a 10mm and 12mm sockets and end wrenches are needed. After trying to wiggle the alternator up through the top, I was afraid of damaging other electrical connections, so I took the oil filter off. It was time for an oil change anyway, but just removing the filter only lost maybe half a quart of oil. The local autozone had an alternator for 129.99, lifetime warranty.

Believe it or not, it may be as simple as a bad battery cable. Have the cables tested for power drain.

The only things left that you haven't replaced are the air filter, crankshaft sensor, the coil packs, and the ignition module. My guess is that you have the same problem many early-mid 90's Lumina owners had... a bad ignition module and crankshaft sensor. If you go ahead and replace them, do yourself a favour and get AC Delco. They cost a bunch more, but in my experience, OEM electronic parts are just not worth it, because they *will* let you down.

It could also be fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator.

There is 2 bolts on the top that you have to remove, and one underneath, and one electrical plug, and one wire that goes to the starter. Good luck.

I just did this two weeks ago. There are two bolts that hold the alternator in place. Also a wire harness needs to be unplugged from the side of the alternator. The hard part is getting the alternator out what you have loosened it. The only way to get the alternator out is to remove the brake master cylinder above it. You have to unscrew the two brakes lines carefully (they have very small threads and many times it is easy to strip the threads or round the heads of the screws). Once the brakes lines are removed, than undo the master cylinder and move it out of the way. The alternator can then be removed.

If the alternator tests out OK (most auto parts stores will test one for free), then follow the large wire from the alternator to the battery and test continuity. There is probably one or two fuses or fusible links. Hope this helps. Mark

Purchase a new alternator and you will see what bolts you will need to remove.

Disconnect the Negative Battery cable before starting any work on replacing the alternator.

Remove the serpentine belt -- that's that belt going accross the alternator, I think using a 15mm wrench on the tensioner will let you pull it back enough to get the belt off so you will be able to remove the alternator.

remove the quick connect connector from the alternator

remove the bolts securing the alternator, they are different sizes so try to remember where they go, or put them back in the holes until you are ready to put the new one in.

remove the positive terminal from the alternator

simply reverse this procedure to install it

how to replace a 1998 Mazda millenia alternator

first remove the negative terminal of the battery,unplug the smart charge plug from the alt,remove the main power cable from alt,remove the o/s headlamp remove the expansion bottle pipe and move out of the way.use a 13mm spanner on the tensioner push down to release tension on alt belt take note of routing of belt and remove belt,next use a 17mm socket to remove the lower rear alt bolt,remove the top idler,remove the top alt bolt,loosen the lower idler supporting the alt you should now be ready to take the alt out,

its on top of the engine in the center, there are two bults that hold it on, reduse tention on the belt tentioner to get the belt off it

in a series battery, alternator, ignition

It's a really easy thing to do on your own. As for how much the alternator costs, expect at least $250 for a Motorcraft OEM alternator... specifics depend on which engine you have. The Duralast and other rebuilt alternators would probably cost half to 2/3s as much... labor, you can expect about an hour, or it can be free simply by doing it yourself... replacing an alternator is probably one of the easier repairs you can do.

form_title= Automotive Alternators form_header= Ensure you car will run with an alternator. How old is your current alternator?*= _ [50] How long have you owned your vehicle?*= _ [50] When was the last time you had you car in for a tune-up?*= _ [50]

I had the same problem. It is the motor inside the unit that is worn out. You can but a new motor unit from Graco's web site for $28. Kind of expensive though. Richard.

the alternator will be on the end of the engine that has the drive belts or serpentine belts, alternators are belt driven.