You will need a one inch socket and ratchet. You also might need a mallet. The socket and ratchet will be needed to remove the lower control arm nuts. The mallet might be needed to loosen the control arm.

if they screech for the most part it is a good indication you need new pads there is a metal indicator that when brake pads wear down will start scraping against the rotor now if you know the break pads are good or new screeching is common for the first few days if it continues it could be that you did not apply brake grease to the back of the pad where the pad meets the caliper if that's the case take them off and get a couple tubes of brakde grease (not that expensive) and put them on the back of the pads BUT DO NOT PUT THEM ON THE ACTUAL PAD WHERE IT WOULD CONTACT THE ROTOR that will make your brakes fail

The question you ask is too involved for a proper answer. You may want to go to a car parts store, or book store, and get a repair manual for your car. They cost about $16.00 Or, go to a Public Library.

If they are warped, they need to be turned, if they are groved, they need to be turned. If they are glazed, they need to be turned. In general, if you are working on the brakes, they need to be turned.
If they are too thin (not wide enough across) to be turned, they need to be replaced. Many newer rotors are not thick enough to be turned, so you just replace them every time you replace the brakes. Most auto parts retailers will measure the thickness of the rotors for you and tell you if they can be turned.

The primary definition of "rotor" is the metal circular disc... usually about 2/3 of an inch and varying in circumferance and removal mechanisms that attaches to the front axle spindle or the front axle out hub by your "studs" (lugs tighted the rotor onto the studs spindle, hub generally). The brakes pads are compressed by the "caliper" the caliper is governed by the brake pedel. YOU press very hard on the brake pedal... the caliper will compress TWO brake pads - on either side of the ROTOR grabbing it with friction and forcing the front axle to stop rotating as pressure is continually asserted upon the "rotor" by the "pads" through the "caliper" by the brake "pedal" applied by you. It is important to keep rotors - clean- straight (non-warped from too much tightening) turned- at each brake chage - have the rotors, as I said "turned" meaning "ground down to a slippery metal surface to optimize the pad application surface upon the rotor and a good contact between the two at EACH application of your foot upon the brake pedel. Lastly.... when buying... pads are a quick fix - rotors are not- sometimes you have to repack bearings and literally fight to get the rotor off... so buy a better grade rotor ... there are at least four (quality) tiers avalable... I see bembro listed quite often in these posts- they are special because they are drilled or slotted to create a cooler environment down there. After heavy stop and go traffic on interstates at night- watch the center area of the front wheels- and you may see a sports car's rotor glowing RED from heat. Anyway... hope this helps. 2dynamic

a brake rotor is the metal surface the brake pad is compressed against to slow down the vehicle. it spins with the wheels.

Answer Depends on what system you are talking about. A brake rotor is part of a disc brake system, and is the large, round, metal thing that your brake pads "squeeze" when applied. The pad contact with the rotor converts engergy of motion to heat energy, and that's what slows your car down. If the ignition system, the rotor is the rotating electrical contact in the distributor that channels voltage from the ignition coil to the individual cylinders.

In electrical engineering terms: in electric motors, dynamos/generators and alternators there are two different pieces used to create the electromagnetic field the units needs to work. the movable one is called the rotor and the fixed part is called the stator.

when breaks are applied for moving car whose velocity will be decreases and finally car will be at rest position

acceleration = (final velocity - initial velocity)/time taken

= (0-u)/t

= -(u/t)

negative acceleration is called deceleration

deceleration = - acceleration

chennakesavarao@itimes.com

Removing Front & Rear Rotors Well Guys...

I remove my Front & Rear Rotors out of my 1998 Ford Expedition XLT.

I rented a 3 Jaw Puller from Auto Zone and a bottle of PB Blaster and a sledge hammer it only took about one hour or less to take both off...

The way I removed the Front & Rear Rotors was ...

1. I put lots of PB Blaster in the back and the front of the rotors to be removed.

2. I put plenty of tension with the 3 Jaw Puller...

3. I hit the back of the rotor with the sledge hammer...

And it came right off...

Hope this helps someone out there...

If the problem persists go back and have the mecahnic check them again, sounds like faulty brake pads, the locking sounds a bit dangerous - may want to take it straight in to get re-checked

if the mechanic says there good then the mechabic working on them might have got grese on them wich is causing the lock up. as for the grinding goes then if you baught brake pads that are supposed to last for over 30,000 miles then they are no good because good brake pads are only supposed to last around 30,000 miles. so it isn't always good to buy the best brake pads.

Hard to say. When burnishing in new pads, you should make 20-30 stops on flat roads going from 25 mph to a stop and allowing time for the rotors to cool as needed. A burning smell is not necessarily abnormal however.

cost of parts 200.00 labor 125.00 total $325.00

Carefully take the boot out of the caliper with a small screwdriver being careful of the seal underneath. Then put the cylinder back in the boot and replace the whole thing back in the caliper.

Are you talking about seized brakes? As in the wheels no longer turn because the brakes are stuck? or.......?

This will vary from area to area. However it is most common for dealerships to be higher than an independent/chain. Most prices will vary from 30-110/hour. Even higher in bigger cities (L.A., NYC) Check with the place doing the repairs before giving them the OK to do any repairs or even looking at the vehicle.

It is becoming more common for dealers prices to be very similar to independent shop prices with the decline of automobile sales in recent years. There was a time where the dealership looked at a customer as a sale, but now the dealer's are trying to aggressively get the customer in for service to make extra money from where they lost due to a lower number of sales and lower margin of profit (to stay competitive).

In smaller areas, a one man shop may charge significantly less especially if they own their lot and only have one master mechanic. Should you trust these guys to get your repair right? That really depends on the mechanic.

Lift the car on a vehicle jack, remove the tire and set it aside, remove the brake shoe/caliper, remove the brake pad. Dispose of the old brake pad, put in the new brake pad, replace the brake shoe/caliper, put the tire back on the car, and lower the car to the ground.

The brake pads on a 2004 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 are replaced by removing the wheels, unbolting the calipers, and taking out the brake pads. The caliper piston must be pressed back in before new pads are installed.

Yes it most certainly can,had one caught in a fence,pulled the fence out for two hundred yards and escaped,they hate being on their back and struggle like hell to get up,usually in seconds

Only if the pads are worn so badly that they have cut a deep groove in the rotor. Small grooves are fine, rotors just need to be turned (shaved) to make them smooth again.

length of the brake pad itself. Your car probably has different type of brakes for different models.

A good metric socket set, penetrating oil, and a big hammer. Actually, an impact wrench is the key. Keep in mind that the caliper itself is held on by 2 bolts to the caliper bracket. And the bracket is held to the car by 2 other (I think larger) bolts. The 2 that hold the calipers to the brackets are loosened every time you change pads and therefore are usually not as hard to remove as the 2 that hold the bracket to the car. Not only that, but these 2 bolts have what look like washers on them but these "washers" are actually part of the nut. This gives them a large "friction" area. And this friction area has ridges or grooves on it so as to sort of "embed" themselves to whatever they tighten up against. So don't try removing them with steady pressure, but rather a "beating" motion. An impact wrench would be ideal. You will require a 15mm socket or wrench for the caliper slider bolts, and a T60 torx for the bracket If your doing the rear you will need 18mm wrench

Remove wheels

Re-install 2 lug nuts to hold rotor in place

Remove caliper mounting bolts

Slide caliper off rotor

Use a "C" clamp to fully retract piston in to caliper body

Replace inner and outer brake pads

Re-install caliper

PUMP BRAKE PEDAL TO SET PADS AGAINST ROTOR PRIOR TO MOVING VEHICLE

I used the Napa brand tool, #3355 which cost about $12.00. I will also needed a #50 Torx bit to remove the caliper assy. update- found Napa tool #3163 a better fit, matches the 3/4 inch cube description..

You will need a special tool (3/4 inch cube that snaps on to ratchet wrench) to turn in the pistons on the rear calipers.

No. Rotors should last the life of the car if your pads are changed regularly, like they should be. The only time you have to replace the rotors is when you put off a pad change for too long. Your pads will eventually wind up metal on metal and grind really bad and this is what ruins the rotor. There are exceptions to this rule, though. Excessive and heavy braking can also cause an extreem build up of heat. This heat can warp a rotor causing your car to develope a weeble-wabble effect. I have seen them get so hot, they melt all the rubber seals with the area because of the tremendous heat they produce.