Due to unforseen consequences, you should really let a professional do your brakes. If you still insist, then, You may want to go to a car parts store, or book store, and get a repair manual for your car. They cost about $16.00 Or, go to a Public Library.

there is a little metal plate that scrapes the rotor to warn you when your pads are getting too warn down True, if you have rear disc brakes. But if, like most cars built before 2000 and many cars built since, you have rear drum brakes, you probably have a loose spring or something of the like. Drum brakes have springs and cables to hold the shoes in position. If a spring snaps, the shoes will be off center in the drum, causing a grinding sound. They may still work like always. Also important is that rear brakes do only 25% of the work. It's possible that the shoes need to be replaced and the drums turned or replaced even if you are able to stop with no problem. Ignoring a problem with brakes will end up costing a whole lot more money in the long run.

Remove the wneels then the drum retainer that holds the drum on while it is on the assy line. Then pull the drums off. If the shoes have worn into the drums you have to retract the shoes to let the drums come off. If they are sticking on the center, sometimes heat is required to get them loose.

Remove wheel and ensure vehicle is properly supported

Remove caliper and caliper mount bracket

Use a small sledge hammer to strike rotor in between lug nut studs.

Use safety goggles

After a few hits try pulling rotor off, if you can not keep hitting rotor with hammer

Repeat until rotor comes off

Several things to watch for. Your brakes will sometimes start to stutter or pulse as you apply them. Occasionally you will hear a noise like a grinding or a squeal. With any luck, it'll be the pads wearing out before the rotors get damaged, but that''s not the way things usually happen. People have a tendency to let things go until more work is involved. If addressed soon enough, most rotors can be turned and used again, If left too long without attention, you will need to replace the pads, the rotors, and sometimes even the calipers, so...best to take care of things as soon as you can.

Remove the wheels then the drums should just slide off. If they are rusted on, WD40 and a hammer should do it. If the shoes have scored the drums, you have to retract the shoes first. If you can't do that you can pry the drums off and ruin the springs and fittings. You have to replace them and know how they go if you do that.

# Release the parking brake # Remove the cowl trim panel from the left side of the drivers compartment for access to the parking brake pedal # Pull back on the parking brake cable toward the control assembly (parking brake) and insert a 5/32 inch drill bit into the control actuator to lock the assembly into position # Its actually easier to pull the parking brake cable from under the vehicle but you will need an assistant to help you do this way. # Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts and raise and support the truck # Remove the brake calipers and the brake discs # Detach the parking brake cable from the actuator arm # Clean the parking brake assembly with brake cleaner # Remove the brake shoe retracting spring # Remove the adjusting screw spring and remove the adjusting screw # Remove the hold down springs from the shoes # Remove the parking brake shoes from the actuator

There really is no set time or even mileage. If good quality brake pads and s hoes are fitted, they will last a long time. Most disc brake pads have 'squealer' plates, these are thin tin plates that screech when your pads need to be replaced. I like to keep a good eye on all essential features of my car, so I take off the wheels and check my pads and shoes at least twice a year.

Remove the caliper and the caliper mounting bracket. Next look closely at the center of the rotor around the wheel studs, some cars have a small countersunk Allen bolt as a safety here, if your car has it remove it. After that you just need to bang them off. They get corroded and can be very difficult to remove some times, just hit them with a big hammer, don't be afraid. This is hard to describe but you don't need to try to hammer the rotor off you only need to break it loose by swinging TOWARDS the vehicle and hitting it where the pads contact, keep hitting it at opposite sides. Have you ever removed the lug nuts off a car and had to slam the outer edge of the tire inward to break the frozen wheel loos? Well that's basically what you need to do with your hammer to the rotor, it shouldn't be too difficult, and the rotor is only bolted to the vehicle by the rim once the lug nuts are tightened down.

A disc brake is the most common front car brake, and is now often seen on the back too. The system consists of a rotor, a thick, smooth steel disc fixed to the hub and rotating with the wheel. At one side of this rotor is a caliper fitting around part of it and fixed to the knuckle (hub mounting). This caliper contains a hydraulic piston (often two) and two disc pads. These are steel pads faced with about 3/8 inch of friction material. these friction material sides rub on the rotor. When hydraulic pressure is applied via the brake pedal, this forces brake fluid to move the piston out, squeezing the pads, causing them to grip the rotor which then slows down or stops. This is obviously a very simplified description. -Modern systems have all kinds of improvements and innovations.

1. Remove the brake caliper but dont disconnect the brake line also remove the caliper mounting bracket
2. Remove the steering knuckle and take it to properly equipped shop and have the hub flange pressed out of the knuckle then the disc can then be unbolted from the hub
3. On rear disc brakes remove the retaining screw and remove the disc from the hub

Low Compression usually means that the cylinder rings are worn. You should also do a leak down of each cylinder. That will pinpoint which cylinder/s are bad.

Also,possible poor seating of valves or improper valve seat contact.

It is easy but everything has to go inorder. Get a manual on your car from DISCOUNTAUTOREPAIRMANUALS.COM and it will help on the next repair and get you acquainted with your car also.

easy is relative. i don't alot of work on my cars but it's fairly straight forward. front discs are easier to change. i'd recommend changing with a friend. 1. loosen lug nuts 2. jack car up 3. take off wheel 4. make sure emergency brake is off, and remove it from brake assembly. it's a bolt on top w/a clamp and spring, and a bolt on the bottom of the arm. 5. remove 2 bolts holding caliper in place. pry caliper off rotor (i find using a big flathead screwdriver does best...wedge it between rotor and caliper) 6. remove 2 bolts holding caliper together and pull pads out of calipers...careful not to damage pins/shims 8. push piston back into boot so new pads will fit. this will require a tool. front brake piston can be pushed with a c-clamp, but rear requires a tool fitting the '+' shape. available in autoparts store...get a socket extension for your rachet too. (don't try to do with anything else, or you'll just get frustrated) turn clockwise and simultaneously push. 9. put new pads in, aligned same way as old ones 10. slide back on rotor and assemble everything in reverse order of disassembly

should take a couple hours.

Remove:

Block opposite wheel, Jack up the side to exchange first, Remove rear tire, Remove 2 10mm bolts from Caliper, lift Caliper from bottom up to pull from Rotor, Remove outside pad first, pull inside pad out next (NOTE: if inside pad wont come out for clearance reasons remove Brake Fluid Reservoir Cap, put the Old Outside Pad against the Cylinder then use a Clamp to push the Cylinder in SLOWLY. Remove the Clamp, Old Outside Pad and the Inside Pad should have clearance to pull out.

Install:

Install Inside Pad first hooks on the ends up, then slide the Outside Pad into position, rotate the Caliper toward the Roter and the top hooks in first, slide the Roter in place and replace the two 10mm bolts. Replace the tire, lower the jack, replace the Brake Fluid Cap, start the vehicle and pump the Brakes a few times.

You should be set. That's all.....

JR Bush

California

My girlfriend has a 2006 escape and I ran into the same problem trying to change her brakes and none of the Allen wrenches fitting. The '06 needed a 9 mm Allen, so I'm assuming the 05 would need the same?! Good Luck!

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I have a 2006 Tribute, 4wd, discs on front and back. I just did the brakes today. Front calipers are 9mm, back ones are 7mm.

1. Loosen the lug nuts on both front wheels.2. Lift the car using the manufacturer's recommended locations.3. completely remove both front wheels.4. turn the steering wheel in the direction of the side you are working on. (to give you more space).5. Loosen and remove the caliper mounting bolts (I believe they are Torx but they may be hex head or Allen wrench style).6. support the caliper by hanging it from a string or wire.7. Remove you old brake pads.8. Compress the brake piston (round thing in center of caliper) with a C-clamp.9. Install your new brake pads. 10. Grease your caliper mounting bolts (to prevent squeaks)11. Install in the reverse order, torque lug nuts to 90 ft. lbs.

I think you're talking about the brake rotor...right? If so, it's probably only seized on the hub by rust...typical for some FWD's. Get a good hammer and beat on the back of the rotorin various spots until it comes off. WD 40 on the hub or any type of oil will help.

You will need a metric Allen wrench (7 mm).Jack up passenger side and place jack stand. Remove wheel. Take a screwdriver and work it in between brake pad and rotor. Once done, apply steady pressure on brake pad until you push the caliper piston as far in (toward engine) as it will go. You will need to remove caliper bolts. They are on the back of the caliper at top and bottom. Place Allen wrench in each bolt and turn wrench towards front of vehicle to remove. Once removed, remove caliper with brake pads inside. Match new brake pads with old and put new pads in like you removed the old pads. Place new pads and caliper back on vehicle and replace caliper bolts. If caliper and new pads do not slide easily back in place,you may need to get a large c-clamp and push piston back in caliper a little more. After you get caliper back on and tightened, get in car and pump your brake pedal until it is hard to push. This resets the brake pads. Replace wheel and your done!!

Some cheap pads will squeal. You may need to change to an OEM type pad. It can also be you did not apply a anti-squeal high temperature grease to the back of the pads where they contact the caliber. Teflon coated shims are another option. Be sure and also check the slide pins to make sure they are not rusted. Apply a slight amount of high temp grease to these pins or replace if they are rusted.

You will need a one inch socket and ratchet. You also might need a mallet. The socket and ratchet will be needed to remove the lower control arm nuts. The mallet might be needed to loosen the control arm.

if they screech for the most part it is a good indication you need new pads there is a metal indicator that when brake pads wear down will start scraping against the rotor now if you know the break pads are good or new screeching is common for the first few days if it continues it could be that you did not apply brake grease to the back of the pad where the pad meets the caliper if that's the case take them off and get a couple tubes of brakde grease (not that expensive) and put them on the back of the pads BUT DO NOT PUT THEM ON THE ACTUAL PAD WHERE IT WOULD CONTACT THE ROTOR that will make your brakes fail

The question you ask is too involved for a proper answer. You may want to go to a car parts store, or book store, and get a repair manual for your car. They cost about $16.00 Or, go to a Public Library.

If they are warped, they need to be turned, if they are groved, they need to be turned. If they are glazed, they need to be turned. In general, if you are working on the brakes, they need to be turned.
If they are too thin (not wide enough across) to be turned, they need to be replaced. Many newer rotors are not thick enough to be turned, so you just replace them every time you replace the brakes. Most auto parts retailers will measure the thickness of the rotors for you and tell you if they can be turned.

The primary definition of "rotor" is the metal circular disc... usually about 2/3 of an inch and varying in circumferance and removal mechanisms that attaches to the front axle spindle or the front axle out hub by your "studs" (lugs tighted the rotor onto the studs spindle, hub generally). The brakes pads are compressed by the "caliper" the caliper is governed by the brake pedel. YOU press very hard on the brake pedal... the caliper will compress TWO brake pads - on either side of the ROTOR grabbing it with friction and forcing the front axle to stop rotating as pressure is continually asserted upon the "rotor" by the "pads" through the "caliper" by the brake "pedal" applied by you. It is important to keep rotors - clean- straight (non-warped from too much tightening) turned- at each brake chage - have the rotors, as I said "turned" meaning "ground down to a slippery metal surface to optimize the pad application surface upon the rotor and a good contact between the two at EACH application of your foot upon the brake pedel. Lastly.... when buying... pads are a quick fix - rotors are not- sometimes you have to repack bearings and literally fight to get the rotor off... so buy a better grade rotor ... there are at least four (quality) tiers avalable... I see bembro listed quite often in these posts- they are special because they are drilled or slotted to create a cooler environment down there. After heavy stop and go traffic on interstates at night- watch the center area of the front wheels- and you may see a sports car's rotor glowing RED from heat. Anyway... hope this helps. 2dynamic

a brake rotor is the metal surface the brake pad is compressed against to slow down the vehicle. it spins with the wheels.

Answer Depends on what system you are talking about. A brake rotor is part of a disc brake system, and is the large, round, metal thing that your brake pads "squeeze" when applied. The pad contact with the rotor converts engergy of motion to heat energy, and that's what slows your car down. If the ignition system, the rotor is the rotating electrical contact in the distributor that channels voltage from the ignition coil to the individual cylinders.

In electrical engineering terms: in electric motors, dynamos/generators and alternators there are two different pieces used to create the electromagnetic field the units needs to work. the movable one is called the rotor and the fixed part is called the stator.

Micrometer, ruler, tape measure, it sort of depends on the thickness you are trying to measure, if it is the thickness of the Earth's crust, a beam, or a piece of paper...