Brakes and Tires

http://volvospeed.com/Repair/FWDbearingHub.php has the full walk through.

he front wheel bearings on the FWD Volvo are refered to as a bearing hub. To replace a bad unit you can't do just the wheel bearing, the replacement part comes with the hub and the sealed bearing. Some clues that you might have a bad front wheel bearing include, a noise that increases with speed and is related to tire/vechicle speed. Usually when the bearing starts to go bad, the noise starts at 35-40 MPH, however you could hear it at slower speeds. It is often hard to tell which side the noise is from. You help to narrow down which side by loading the bearing, to do this turn the steering wheel left or right while the noise is heard, it doesn't have to be a hard right or left. Say you turn or lightly jerk the wheel to the right and the noise gets weaker, but when turning left the noise gets louder, then the right side bearing would be the source of the noise. By turning left you put more load on the right front wheel. When replacing the bearing hub you will need a bearing hub "Kit".

The front bearing hub kit comes with the items shown in the above picture. The actual hub that you are replacing is center of the picture. The kit also comes with 4 new E 14 torx bolts to secure the hub to the spindle, two new 15mm bolts for the brake caliper, and a replacement 36mm nut for the drive shaft. I've heard you can buy just the bearing hub not in a kit but then you would have to re-use old bolts, and I wouldn't recommend that.

To start the repair you will need to have the wheel for the side you are changing off the car, this will require the use of jack stands on the front to be safe. Start by removing the wheel. The next step is to remove the 15mm bolts that hold the entire caliper to the front spindle. After removing the 15mm bolts, if you use large channel locks to move the pads in just a bit it will be easier to take the front caliper assembly off the rotor.

Take the brake caliper assembly and use a bungie cord or something to hang it from the strut spring like shown in the picture. This gets the caliper out of the way and ensures you are not putting stress on the brake lines. Notice that the large 36mm axle nut is off. To get the nut off you might want to break it loose while the car is still on the ground with the wheel on it. I use an impact wrench so it doesn't matter to me, but if you don't have air tools leave the tire on, take the center hub cap off and with a 36mm socket and large breaker bar you can break the nut loose. Once the nut is loose you can get it off without much trouble. The next hardest part is getting the axle to break free of the splines so you can take it out. Try putting some liquid wrench on there the night before. The kit has a new 36mm nuts, so what I do is take the old nut and screw it down so it's almost starting to show threads but not quite, and then with a large hammer I smack the nut until the axle breaks loose from the splines and starts to go in. Now would also be a good time to take the rotor off. There is one 10mm pin holding it to the hub. Once the 10mm pin is off you will have to use a hammer to loose up the rotor so it will come off the hub.

The next step is to remove the control arm where it attaches to the sub frame. The bolt head is 15mm and the nut on the other side is 18mm. Again I have air tools but this can be done with hand tools, half inch would be best. The picture shows the front bolt, there is one more in the rear you need to take out also. Once the bolts are out, you can pry the control arm out of the brackets on the sub frame and it will hang down, allowing the strut and wheel assembly to be moved around so you have access to the hub bolts.

Once the control arm is free from the sub frame you can push the axle out of the splines on the spindle. The picture shows the axle just hanging kind of in the way, take a bungie cord or something and you can lift it up out of the way as well.

At this point you can maneuver the spindle so you can see the 14 torx bolts that have to be removed, the white arrows are pointing to the bolts. Make sure your E 14 torx socket is on the bolt head good, you might even have to top it on a bit to get it on good so you don't strip it while trying to remove it.

Once you have the four E 14 torx bolts out of the bearing hub, it will usually fall out of the spindle, but if it doesn't a few light taps with a hammer will free it up. Before you put the new bearing hub in make sure you sand all the old rust off the spindle. A drill with a wire wheel will work great. The top center inboard of the opening has the ABS wheel sensor there, either take it out of the way (10mm bolt) or make sure you are careful not to damage it while cleaning off the rust.

Above is a picture of the new hub and E 14 torx bolts in place. As with any repair on your Volvo, go slow, take note of items that are attached to other items so you can get things back together correctly. One item of note is there is a rubber dust shield that is on the axles shaft that mates up with the bearing hub once the shaft is inserted into the splines, often it falls off when you take the shaft out, or it falls off as you are moving the shaft around. The torque specs for putting things back together are: 1) The E 14 torx bolts to 65nm (48LbFt) then 60 degrees 2) Brake caliper bolts 100nm (74LbFt) 3) Axle nut 120nm (89LbFt) then 60 degrees.

You jack up and block the car. Remove wheel, remove brake caliper. Rotor is now free.

Remove brake caliper and caliper frame. Rotors are now free.

Wornb brake pads. You are hearing the warning device that is telling you to replace the pads.

The question you ask is too involved for a proper answer. You may want to go to a car parts store, or book store, and get a repair manual for your car. They cost about $16.00 Or, go to a Public Library.

The problem is the number of small pieces of hardware that must be put back together just so. These include, besides the brake shoes: hold-down springs (2), return springs (2), star adjuster, spring for the star adjuster, wheel cylinder if removed, backing plate if removed, brake line connection if removed, self-adjuster lever, self-adjuster spring, self-adjuster connecting arm, emergency brake cable, emergency brake lever. And of course the drum, which may be rusted on. Even with a repair manual, if you have a digital camera, it's best to take a picture or two of it all before you disassemble it, to consult in reassembly.

they are self adjusters every time you back up and stop they adjust up =========== Imagine little teethe that are going vertical (up/down). Pushing the teeth up/down will cause it to tighten or loosen. I always forgt which way it goes. Use a brake tool or a flat screwdriver to do this. The way they are supposed to work though is if you drive backward and stop and then forward and stop. Doing this a couple of times is supposed to adjust them autmatically. That is the way they are SUPPOSED to work anyway. Just adjust them until they drag the drum alittle bit. Wheel should only turn no more that 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Good luck.

The correct size is listed in your owners manual and on a placard located on the drivers door post.

no you cannot

The brand name Bridgestone stands for Bridgestone tires.

- - - - -

Bridgestone is an alteration on the company founder's name. Shojiro Ishibashi founded Bridgestone. Ishi is the Japanese word for "stone"; bashi is the word for "bridge."

Spare girl is a Sylph. I don't know why it is so. But a crossword clue 'Spare Girl' has Sylph as the answer.

NO, this would be a very bad swap. Your speedometer would read 57 mph at a true 60 mph, and handling, ride, steering, traction, power, and mpg would be adversely effected. A 195/60-16 would be an acceptable swap.

some look like they would but in reality paddle tyres are far too soft for any sort of mud.

Sand tyres are designed to 'float' over the soft surface of the sand whilst others aim to dig through the very soft sand with out going too much into the wetter parts.

They do this through soft rubber.

Mud needs brute force and power, as well as, great controll. Tyres like Simex Extreame treckers or the more affordable Maxxis Buckshots have a very tough rubber construction and will not be torn very easily; the trepadors are even tougher than these but I wouldn't reccomend them.

Mud tyres are designed to dig through the masses of slop (usually half a car deep where I go) and get down to the firm rock/mud below but they are designed to be so tough not only for grip but also to cope with sticks, rocks or any other sharp things you encounter on the trails.

All in all paddles tyres are meant for sand not mud.

Yes.

I have a set that I purchased a year ago. I think they are excellent for a budget tire!! I live in upstate New York and they handled spectacularly through all the snow this winter!! They have excellent traction in both snow in winter, or rain in summer. The tread is very similar to the Goodyear Aqua-Tred and is therefore very good at hydroplaning resistance. The only drawback to them is that they are a little bit noisy at speed. They make a dull roaring sound and at low speeds they tend to make a whining sound.

The Hankook Tire Corporation of South Korea.

Make sure master cylinder is full at all times Connect a plastic tube to the bleeder screw other end into a container filled with clean brake fluid Open bleeder screw have assisitant push brake pedal down approx. 3/4 of travel - observe container repeatprocess until no bubbles are seen. Start at longest line (RR-LR)

yes u can its still a 18 inch tyre it will be slightly narrower the correct size would be 235/55R18 but it would still fit.

Yes, you can but it wears out your tires twice as fast so I would suggest using summers in summer and winters in winter. As long as you always use winters in winter, not summers or all seasons then it should be fine.

Let off the accelerator pedal, put the right signal switch on, maintain control as you move to the right side of the road, apply brakes gently as you slow down, come to a complete stop in the break down lane (right shoulder of the road), put it in park and turn on emergency flashers.

To remove rear wheel bearings, first jack the car up so that the rear wheels are off the ground. Then grip the rear tires at 6 and 12 o'clock, and push them in. Finally, remove the transmission tray, engine tray and the plastic cover from the suspension wishbone.

Best ways are if you can see exposed cable underneath the truck, go underneath and yank down on the cable as hard as you can. If the parking brake isn't needed or you just need to free the brake to move the truck and can go get it repaired if necessary, cut the cable back by the brake and the brake will release. Shouldnt cost more that 150 bucks to get a new e-brake installed.

I rotate mine every 3rd oil change which is aprox 9K miles.

Refer to owner's manual for exact guidelines, but most manufacturers recommend rotating tires roughly every 5,000 to 10,000 miles. Again, see owner's manual for specifics.

yes

yes they do, i'm running 255/75/15 bf goodrich radial ta's on chevy rally rims on a 1993 conversion van,van is over 6.000 pounds,no problems at all

The wheels were probably overtorqued. Have the rotors turned and the wheels torqued correctly. The mechanic more than likely overtightened the lug nuts holding your wheels on. With all of the horror stories of people having their wheels come off while riding down the road, service garages and mechanics are probably being over cautious. If tight is good, then even tighter is better. Unfortunately, what happens is that they end up warping the brake rotors (the disks that your break pads pinch together on to make your car stop). The warped rotors then give you that pulsing effect when you brake. Newer cars have lighter weight rotors that are more susceptible to warping, and, if your rotors are old or have been turned on a lathe, they are narrower and weaker and can warp easier.

It's a really simple matter to get under the vehicle and try different wrenches on until you find the correct one. Many calipers are held on with a 7/16 bolt, but some are 3/8, some 10 mm and some are even allen or torx heads.