Cadillac DeVille

Ideal is 14.2 volts 13.8 is acceptable

More than likely you will have to remove the fuel tank. Open the trunk lid, pull back the carpet and see. Also look under the rear seat.

Remove engine cover; regulator is in on the back fuel rail on the right-hand end. Relieve pressure before removing regulator. Total time < 30 minutes.

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In order to tell you that you would have to describe the noise and what the car is doing when the noise is made. Are you idling, driving, just turned the AC on? What is occurring and what is the noise?

Idling and sounds worse when AC is on.

Sounds like it is coming from the top of the engine. Vehicle has 120k miles

This link will take you to the Fel-Pro publication that shows not only the torque specs but the torque sequence. The 4.9 is listed on page 29 of the pdf as "298 OHV (4.5)" which is a typo, but the numbers are correct. The page for the sequence is on the same table. Make sure to ONLY torque the 1,3,4 bolts on the final step or you may strip out the threads.

A 2001 cadillac deville requires 7.5qts of 5W-30 oil. When doing an oil change you should also reset the engine oil life in your vehicles computer. To do this simply go through the on dash option and find engine oil life then hold the reset button until it reads " 100% ENGINE OIL LIFE. "

I'm sure this post was made long ago and you have already found an answer. So i'm going to answer for others who may have the same issue. I have a 99 cadillac deville and went through this problem for 5 months. Sometimes it would start after 3 minutes, and other times I was stranded for up to 6 hours of waiting and trying to start, again and again. There are numerous posts about the passkey 3 system etc etc. I found out all I needed was a new igniton switch which yes includes having a new key cut (cost me $160 total for the entire job). Had that done 16 months ago and not one time have I had this issue again. The way it was explained to me is when you adjust your steering wheel over and over, it can ultimately smash and eventually cut into the ignition wire. This ultimately will lead to the secuity message where the car thinks someone is trying to steal your car. I saw the old igniton wires and yes they were diffinetly smashed in some places and cut in 2 areas. Anyways this is something you may want to look into before reading all of the technical crap and the $$$$$ that goes with it.

Mick Fleetwood is a singer and Cruella DeVille is a fictional character.

Remove the Transmission oil pan and you will see it

You have to elevate the shocks on the car!

The manufacturer doesn't "necessarily" recommend flushing this system. They go on to state that since it is very unlikely to that a flush would completely clean the condenser, it should be changed along with the compressor, accumulator and orifice tube; in the event of a compressor failure. (When compressors fail they tend to send debris throughout the AC system, it can and will get caught in the small orifices of the condenser evaporator, accumulator and orifice tube) However, while you have the AC lines, orifice tube (removed), accumulator and evaporator disconnected; use compressed air (from a shop compressor) to blow out each line as well as the evaporator and condenser.

dont know where a diagram of is,but if looking at the front of the car on the right side of the motor in the front you will see a bracket thats covering a belt that is the water pump belt and pulleythat is connected to the water pump housing,to get to the water pump,you have to remove that bracket and once that is removed you will see a metel cover on the there is 4 bolts that hold the water pump on they have to come out,you will have to remove the air filter and disconnect all the water hoses goning into the water pump cover,once all is removed and the 4 bolts are removed you will need a tool to remove the water pump.autozone rents that tool for abt 30.00.hope that helps..there's not alot of room be its not that hard.the hard part is getting the new one in with out messing up the gasket ring that came with the new water pump,they dont sell that at autozone..just got mine replaced.

If you're doing it yourself, you are brave. The average shop can remove one in about an hour. That's with a lift and jack system. Rebuilding it is another story and can range from 2-4 hours depending how experienced you are.

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Contact your local court clerk or motor vehicle division. They can get you a replacement.

I usually pull off one end of the lower hose if the radiator petcock is hard to get at or stuck; it is usually easier and it is much faster in most cases.

its stamped on top of the intake manifold

PROBABLY INSIDE OF GAS TANK. Definately inside the tank, all Caddy's since 1985 or so, e.g.anything with a throttle body or multi-port injection system. Before you drop the tank and replace the pump, a BIG job, make sure the fuel pump relay is not at fault. They are in different locations on various models so research that. JHSills

There isn't a flasher box. What you want is the flasher which is located near the fuse box, or is clipped on to the underneath edge of the dash near the steering column.

Can be numerous reason, but first I raire the carpeting and undermatting. If the undermatting is wet, DISCARD, it will never dry. Not quite sure of your vehicles layout i.e. sunroof, etc. Look for a water leak ( water leak test ) from the front windshield , draining down to the floor board and carpet. Another spot could be an open rubber grommet in the firewall. If you do have a sunroof, is it a factory installed unit or aftermarket. Different type of installations. A leaking sunroof can drain water all the way down the windshield pillar to the floor carpets. Only way to really find the problem is 1 person in the car, and 1 person spraying water.

I don't exactly know in degrees; perhaps someone else will, but usually your temperature gage is a good guide. Even if you are not running in the red zone, you should not really be close to the red zone. If you are running close to the red zone, you are not particularly safe just because you are not actually IN the red zone.

Also, you should not be running too cool. This wastes gas and makes the engine less efficient. It also probably means someone took out the thermostat because the engine WAS running very hot with one in. Typically, I have found that if the needle is somewhere in the middle of the gage, it's a good place to be. Now, if you have a Jaguar, that does not hold true; a Jag really has to run within a degree or two of optimum, so you might want to search the web for a Deville owner's forum.

It Begins as a series of buttons that need to be pressed and held at the same time. On the Climate Control cluster press and hold the warm button and the off button at the same time. After a few seconds Your check engine light and the light right below it will turn on (they will go off after you are done messing with everything). Then using the "lo" and Hi" buttons you can scroll through the codes that will appear on the fuel management cluster on the left side of the steering wheel. have fun and dont do it while your driving.

A simple pair of locking pliers (vice-grips)

Put your foot on the brake, pu the car into drive and the parking break should disengage. if not, push on the parking break while holding the break in drive.