Chevy Cavalier Z24

i have a 1987 Cavalier RS Convertible in my driveway!!

Could be a multitude of things. Depends on what type of noise and shaking. Bad plugs, wires, coils, ICM, fuel injectors. Could be a spun rod bearing. Is the check engine light on? Need a little more info to give you any kind of helpful answer.

Six hours of labor to replace your 1998 Chevrolet Cavalier clutch. The cost will be determined by the labor rate. $75 an hour for labor will cost $450.

you have a wheel bearing going out my friend,

I believe you need a 16 mm wrench. It would be better to use a flair wrench to prevent stripping the fitting. In addition, sometimes the fitting is stuck to the fitting in the power steering pump. Loosening one will cause the other to turn also. Try using a product like liquid wrench and leave the power steering pump connected (i.e. three bolts in place) when removing the line. Another option is to disconnect the line where it meets the line to the rack by the firewall. You will need a 16 mm and a 19 mm for these connections. Good luck. Hope this helps.

Yes. They are the same from 1987 until 1990

No

All 4 wheels have a sensor on them.On the front it is just a magnet with a wire attached.Those two could have some mud or debree on them,not much to go wrong.Just clean the dirt off. The rear two are different. I will make this easy as possible. A four-wheel anti-lock brake system(ABS) maintains vehicle maneuverability,directional stability,and optimum decleration under severe braking conditions on most road surfaces.It does so by monitoring the rotational speed of the wheels and controlling the brake line pressure to the wheels during braking.This prevents the wheels from locking up on slippery roads or during hard braking. On 95-99 models,the hydraulic controlunit/motor pack assembly, is bolted to the left side of the master cylinder.The control unit/motor pack controles hydrolic pressure to the front calipers and rear wheel cylinders by modulating hydrolic pressure to prevent wheel lock-up. 95-99 models,the Electronic Brake Control Module(EBCM) is located above the left(drivers side)kick panel.The EBCM monitors the ABS system and controls the anti-lock valve solenoids.It accepts and processes information received from the brake switch and wheel speed senors to control the hydrolic line pressure and avoid wheel lock-up.It also moniors the system and stores fault codes which indicates specific problems. I should go on,but you are probably getting confused,so I'll put it in laymans terms.The rear sensors are installed in the rear brake backing plates;the toothed rings are installed on the back side of each hub and bearing unit.The air gap between the sensors and the toothed rings is not ajustable,and the sensors themselfs are not rebuildable.If a ring malfunctions,the entirer hub and bearing assembly must be replaced. SO TO PUT IN ONE SINGLE SENTENCE,,,Change the rear wheel hub bearings/wheel sensor. And if you have alot of miles do both rear.If your front bearings start to go bad it will SOUND like you have Knobby/Mud grip tires on it. You can tell the difference in the sound of a good one and a bad one. But me I would go to a salvage yard get one cheap take it home plug it up and see if the light goes off. Good luck www.autozone.com has diagrams you can see what is involved. Also check that the parking brake lever(foot or hand) is fully released,there MAY be a short in the button switch.

probably but it will sure start stinking.

It depends on which engine your trying to swap. The 2.2L OHV engine will work in a 99 from a 2002 because it was the same engine. But if it's a Z24 model the 2.2L DOHC engine will not fit a 99 because the 99 used the old 2.4L Quad 4 in the Z24 models and some LS sedan models.

I won't swear to it, but it should be .045. That is for a 3.1L engine.

Caution:On models equipped with Delco-Loc 2 or Theftlock audio systems make sure you have activation code * Disconnect the negative battery cable * Drain the cooling system * Disconnect the heater hoses at the heater core inlet and outlet on the engine side of the firewall and plug the open fittings * From the inside of the car remove the lower right dash insulator panel and the glove box * Disconnect the ducts from the heater cover * Remove the instrument panel from the passanger compartment * Remove the heater core cover * Remove the heater core clamp bolts and clamps then slide the heater core out carefully * Installation is reverse of removal

The only way to disconnect the anti theft of any maxima from year 89-94 would be to disconnect the relay that is marked as anti theft it is in the relay box to the right or the left fender. Also, after doing this remember to disconnect the battery for about half a day to a day. afterwards, connect the battery prongs back in place and remember to replace the relay that you disconnected this will eliminate the computer's memory. If this doesn't work than the next solution would be to take it to the agency and have them disconnect the whole anti-theft system or having them find the correct code to access the doors without any hassle. answer#2. I have a 1993 Nissan Maxima. my anti-theft went off and would not let my car start. I tried pulling the relay and fuses still would not work. Nissan wanted $150.00 to remove the anti-theft unit which any one can do them self. just pull off the bottom half of the driver side dash . there is a white box marked anti-theft with another box,disconnect the two plugs that go into them and remove the two screws that hold the bracket into place and your factory anti-theft is no longer a problem.

inside the fuel tank Check inside your fuel tank, you will have to empty the tank and drop it, follow the lines under the car and you will be able to see all of the lines that have to do with the fuel system.

to the left of the wiper motor, a vacum hose and electrical connections are attacted to it

I have a 1998 Z24 and the plugs are under the big aluminum cover on the top of the engine (4 bolts). There are no spark plug wires...just a boot system mounted to the under side of the cover and the ignition stuff is there too. Plugs will strip quite easily if you are not careful (13 ft/lbs). Bosch 4 prong plugs are well worth the money.

The fuel pump is in the fuel tank. Requires dropping fuel tank. fun

The thermostat is located under the water outlet housing on the left (driver's) side of the engine. There are three hoses, 2 small and 1 large attached as well as a hard line to the expansion tank. Two 10mm bolts attach the housing to the engine. One 10mm bolt attaches the tank line to the engine. The forward bolt is behind the power steering pump reservoir and is very difficult to get to without specialized tools. I have a 97 z24 & it's off the water pump at back of engine from the black flat tube that meets the water pump.Not at the water neck ,read the writing on it ,it says thermostat located at water pump so don't be fooled I almost was.What a pain of a job it was too.

In the fuel tank.

you can take it to auto zone or advance auto parts stores, and they will put the scanner on it for free.

If you have imagination,cutting torch,and a welder.

(This answer has nothing to do with reseting the Theft System) The best way to go is to get a OBD 2 code reader/scanner. They are cheap (50-60 bucks) compaired to buying lots of parts you dont need. It will give you an angle of attack while leaving what the computer should know, intact. In other words, it wont run rough while it relearns everything and possibily setting off false codes. The only other way is to pull the ECM fuse that is under the hood for a minute or so.(i belive it is a 10 amp fuse) but you will erase not only the codes but the ROM (Read Only Memory) as well and will have to relearn, and you STILL wont know WHY the Check Engine Light came on. You can also disconnect the battery for a few mins. but you will be in that same boat as just pulling that fuse...So if you want to fix it yourself,get a code scanner,if you shop around you will see that the cost is way better than the aggravation of spending money on parts and still not fixing your car. Many times the scanner lead me to a bad connection at a plug-in on the sensor and had to buy nothing else,just unplug and plugin, problem solved,and they work on many different vehicles. And trust me...you WILL need it again.

Fuel pump/fuel filter need replacing. 1991 Ford Probe has fuel cut off switch located in trunk, if car ran over bump, hit something in road, that bounced up under car, possibly caused switch to shut off. pouring gas into engine will only work as long as you pour gas.Try resetting cut off switch to start fuel pump.

I have a 2004 blazer and my manual shifter is removed by turning the hex nut just below the actual shifter clockwise. This may sound counter-intuitive as that is the direction to tighten but this spins the nut away from the shifter so the shifter is free to spin (counter-clockwise). So.... 1. Push boot around shifter down toward floorboard to expose shaft/nut coming out of tranny/gearbox 2. Turn nut clockwise to get away from shifter ( i used a small crescent ) i used a combo of 1st gear and reverse to get the right angles to fit wrench in. 3. Turn by hand the shifter (counter-clockwise) to remove. Or use pipe wrench with cloth around shifter to start the motion if stuck. Use a thick cloth to not scratch paint. 4. Nut and shifter are both free now. 5. This is also how you adjust the height of your shifter if you wish. Hope this helps