Chevy Express

I just did this yesterday. Remove the air filter assembly up to the throttle body. Remove the coolant reservoir. Unhook upper radiator hose from the fan shroud and anything else that is connected to it. There are 6 screws that attach the top part of the fan shroud to the bottom. Remove the top, leave the bottom. The rad hose and AC hose should bend enough to the towards the enging to get out the top shroud. You should probably flush the radiator now. Plug the MAF from the air filter assembly back in if you want it to run a little smoother while flushing. Watch out for the fan, and make sure it's not going to hit anything. Unfortunately your radiator probably has a non-functioning draincock, and you'll have to remove the lower radiator hose to flush and drain. Not comes the fun part. The oil cooler lines and trans cooler lines are connected to the radiator by these little c-clips. They are a pain in the rear. Use a small flat head screwdriver or something small enough to get these off. They are stainless clips, but could be surrounded by rust especially the lower ones. Try some WD40, if that doesn't work you are probably looking at new oil cooler lines (easy job). The trans cooler lines could be harder to replace, so check on that. Try to keep water from getting in the lines, and fluids from getting in your radiator hose. Unhook your upper and lower radiator hoses, and pull out the radiator. Reverse steps to install. When filling the radiator back up pour a gallon or two of coolant into the upper radiator hose and then attach to the radiator. You'll get less air in the system than if you only fill into the neck.

Try this site....http://www.kwmuth.com/techsupport/pdfs/21001190.pdf

Depends what year... 99 its right by harmonic balancer in front of motor. 03 its behind stater...

http://www.rvwholesalers.com/resources/prodigy.wmv Try the above link... the easy instructions are about in the middle of the video. EG from GA

check the fuses in the cab and under the hood but if the fuses are good then take a hammer and smack the starter not to hard some times the silinod gets stuck and the hammer can get it unstuck but if you hit it to hard you HAVE TO GO BUY A STARTER.

Where does the vacuum line lead to from the top of an 2002 Chevy express 1500 van with 5 liter engine

On the intake area? 700 Dollars The above answer sounds more like an intake manifold gasket if I was guessing. The cost of replacing a part is a very general question that unless specified exactly is hard to answer. First, is who is replacing the part? Is the Dealer, an independent repair shop, a junkyard, the guy next door or you doing the replacement. These will all yield different prices. Not to mention that within all of these will be different labor rates and different part price mark ups. Second, what is the quality of the part? Is it a name brand, generic (white box, economy), OEM or used part? All of these will be different. Price will even differ between name brands, sometimes significantly. Thirdly, What is the warranty of the part and who is offering the warranty (the shop the parts house or the manufacturer). Limited Lifetime will have restrictions. Lifetime warranty isn

the fuse my be blown or ,it needs anew gauge

Check engine light can literally point to hundreds of things. The only right way to find out is to take it to someone with electronic diagnostics.

my 2008 express with the 6.0 heats up to 260 degrees when towing a 6000lb trailor

Under the drivers seat

127x5x5

I believe I get around 22 mpg

REMOVAL PROCEDURE

Remove the engine cover.

Disconnect the spark plug wires at the ignition coils.

Disconnect the ignition coil harness connector.

Remove the ignition coil mounting bolts.

Remove the ignition coil.

INSTALLATION PROCEDURE

Install the ignition coil to the bracket.

Install the ignition coil mounting bolts.

NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.

Tighten

Tighten the ignition coil mounting bolts to 8 N.m (71 lb in) .

Connect the ignition coil harness connector.

Connect the spark plug wires at the ignition coils.

Install the engine cover.

In general, bank one is on the same side as the #1 cylinder. If the engine has more than one head, bank #2 will be on the opposite side, but if the engine only has one head there won't BE a bank #2.

Sensor 1 is the forward sensor,. It's typically screwed into the exhaust manifold right where all of the exhaust lines connect into the common line. It's about the only thing that screws into the exhaust and if you look just in front of the head-pipe you should be able to find the Oxygen sensor.

Sensor 2 is typically AFTER the catalytic converter. Sensor 2 seldom fails but of course, there are exceptions.

BTW, if bank 1 sensor 1 has failed, you can bet that bank 2 is right behind. It's kind of like sparkplugs, replace them both while you're at it.

7000

You have to take out the air box and the coolant overflow reservoir. Then on the bottom driver's side of the radiator tank, you have to open the petcock to drain the coolant. It unscrews. You will have to take the 4 bolts out that hold the upper and lower halves of the fan shroud together. Pull the wiring off of the top of the shroud. You then take the bolts out that hold the top of the shroud to the core support. Move all of the wires and lines out of the way and then remove the upper half of the fan shroud. Using pliers, remove the clamps that hold the upper and lower hoses to the radiator and remove the transmission cooler lines. (There should be a tool in your new radiator to open the spring clips that hold your transmission lines in... Otherwise, use a pick tool to remove the clips and pull the lines out of the radiator.

Remove the radiator... You really should use this as an opportunity to replace the Serpentine belt and hoses while you are in there.

Re installation is the reverse of removal.

It doesn't have a speedometer cable. It is electronic.

With screw driver, causiously prey the whole orange housing out from the body of the van. Then twist out the wired bulb housing. Then just pull out the bulb from the plug. Reverse order to replace.

temp sensor going bad will cause the engine to dump fuel and foul plugs very quickly.

If it's a sensor, it will usually be the TPS aka Throttle positioning Sensor, but most of the time it would be a Vacuum leak

Hope i,m not stati'n the obvious, meaning you may have already checked, but I used to have an old '84 ford half ton van, and the clips were on the ouside edge of the doghouse. Now I realize we,re taling about 2 different animals, but my guess is there can't be much difference. Just a couple (guesses), does your van have carpet? If so try pulling the caroet back just enough to expose these hinges,sould be 2 each side twd top, 2 each side twd bottom. Not there? if not bolted to the undercarriage,call your local dealer, from timr to time they'll actually put down thir coffee cups.
Lottsa luck bud

Purchase a Purolator Cabin filter, as it comes with detailed instructions.

Every time you start the engine, SRS(airbag) performs a self test for a few seconds. On a Chevy Express the light should only be on when there is a fault, and turn off once the fault is fixed.

For the odd plugs ( driver side) 1 and 3 open the hood. They will be on the right side of the engine and be the first two plugs closest to the front of the vehicle. You will find that it is easier to feel them then to see them. This is fine because there is really no obstructions other than visual. Once you locate the plugs be sure to carefully remove the wires by using gentle back and forth twisting effort and slowly pull them off. Don't tug at the wire- just at the rubber. You can use a pair of larger pliers, even channel-lock pliers for these two plugs. Often using bigger pliers doesless damage than smaller pliers would. There is less of a tendency to fight things because of the increased leverage bigger pliers allow.
If you are replacing the wires then go ahead and even cut the rubber away from the plug end. Once the metal clasp is exposed it's just a matter of gripping it with pliers and giving it a jerk to pop it off the plug end. Be sure you don't let any rubber or metal pieces fall down around the base of the plug. Not only do you risk making it difficult to slide a socket down far enough over the somewhat shallow hexed sides of the plug to remove it, you also risk these pieces falling into the spark plug hole. This would cause all sorts of havoc. Being careful with plug removal and installation is very important. I've been unfortunate enough to cross thread a spark plug several years ago. Luckily it was on an air cooled VW engine. I removed the head, installed a helicoil ( a brand name product that makes it so that you can save a spark plug hole by re-tapping it, inserting their special threaded 'Heli-coil' and then you can install your plug as normal). The coils are pretty cheap, but the tool is expensive. I kept my tool for years and fortunately never had to use it again. That's one lesson only a fool would have to learn twice. LOL being a fool, I guess I'm just lucky. No really, you can avoid cross threading a plug by threading them in very slowly with your fingers. If you must then put the plug in the socket and put a short 3/8" extension on it. Then slowly install the plug still with your fingers turning the extension without a socket wrench. Once fully inserted your socket wrench will only serve to snug the plugs. Remember that if the plugs have washers loosely attached to the plug when purchased that these need to be smashed as the plug gets tightened. Often people under torque their plugs only to find out later that the plug has worked it's way out of the threads. When this happens you'll know it! So rule of thumb is to torque at least a couple of easily accessible plugs with a torque wrench ( Many auto parts stores have tool loaner programs with a fully returnable deposit.) This way you learn the feel of a plug getting seated. That way when you get to the hard to get at plugs you'll be able to secure them with confidence. I still have my moments when I wonder if I've tightened a plug enough. You should never have to apply an excessive amount of energy on your wrench. If you are unsure then simply remove the plug and look at the washer. Is it smashed? Then you obviously did or didn't torque it enough. Take your time.
Before installing any plug be sure to gap them. ( read about gaping elsewhere) Any auto parts clerk can show you how.
The next two plugs are at the rear of the engine on the driver side. Remove the cover on the inside of the van by removing the glove compartment, the long narrow dash cover located just above the drink holders- it just pops out by prying under it with a screwdriver. These plugs are very particular in that if you don't rout the wires away from the exhaust manifold they will melt- especially the #5 plug. So be sure to install the wire in the routing clip/harness that is bolted to the engine.
The passenger side plugs are about the same as the driver's side, but for the front two you'll need to remove the plastic coolant container. It's just one bolt and you can leave the hoses in place, just move the whole container to the side. If you have AC then it's a little more difficult, but not much. The firing order is less confusing if you tape numbers on each end of the wires. The Cap and rotor should be changed when the wires are changed. All of this stuff pays for itself in gas savings and engine lifespan increasing. Always change the air filter every few months. They are cheap and save you more gas than just about any other tuneup part.
Good luck.