Chevy Express

Every time you start the engine, SRS(airbag) performs a self test for a few seconds. On a Chevy Express the light should only be on when there is a fault, and turn off once the fault is fixed.

check out the flasher itself some are set to flash faster than others,switch out the hazards with the turns and see if hazards flash fast.

For the odd plugs ( driver side) 1 and 3 open the hood. They will be on the right side of the engine and be the first two plugs closest to the front of the vehicle. You will find that it is easier to feel them then to see them. This is fine because there is really no obstructions other than visual. Once you locate the plugs be sure to carefully remove the wires by using gentle back and forth twisting effort and slowly pull them off. Don't tug at the wire- just at the rubber. You can use a pair of larger pliers, even channel-lock pliers for these two plugs. Often using bigger pliers doesless damage than smaller pliers would. There is less of a tendency to fight things because of the increased leverage bigger pliers allow.
If you are replacing the wires then go ahead and even cut the rubber away from the plug end. Once the metal clasp is exposed it's just a matter of gripping it with pliers and giving it a jerk to pop it off the plug end. Be sure you don't let any rubber or metal pieces fall down around the base of the plug. Not only do you risk making it difficult to slide a socket down far enough over the somewhat shallow hexed sides of the plug to remove it, you also risk these pieces falling into the spark plug hole. This would cause all sorts of havoc. Being careful with plug removal and installation is very important. I've been unfortunate enough to cross thread a spark plug several years ago. Luckily it was on an air cooled VW engine. I removed the head, installed a helicoil ( a brand name product that makes it so that you can save a spark plug hole by re-tapping it, inserting their special threaded 'Heli-coil' and then you can install your plug as normal). The coils are pretty cheap, but the tool is expensive. I kept my tool for years and fortunately never had to use it again. That's one lesson only a fool would have to learn twice. LOL being a fool, I guess I'm just lucky. No really, you can avoid cross threading a plug by threading them in very slowly with your fingers. If you must then put the plug in the socket and put a short 3/8" extension on it. Then slowly install the plug still with your fingers turning the extension without a socket wrench. Once fully inserted your socket wrench will only serve to snug the plugs. Remember that if the plugs have washers loosely attached to the plug when purchased that these need to be smashed as the plug gets tightened. Often people under torque their plugs only to find out later that the plug has worked it's way out of the threads. When this happens you'll know it! So rule of thumb is to torque at least a couple of easily accessible plugs with a torque wrench ( Many auto parts stores have tool loaner programs with a fully returnable deposit.) This way you learn the feel of a plug getting seated. That way when you get to the hard to get at plugs you'll be able to secure them with confidence. I still have my moments when I wonder if I've tightened a plug enough. You should never have to apply an excessive amount of energy on your wrench. If you are unsure then simply remove the plug and look at the washer. Is it smashed? Then you obviously did or didn't torque it enough. Take your time.
Before installing any plug be sure to gap them. ( read about gaping elsewhere) Any auto parts clerk can show you how.
The next two plugs are at the rear of the engine on the driver side. Remove the cover on the inside of the van by removing the glove compartment, the long narrow dash cover located just above the drink holders- it just pops out by prying under it with a screwdriver. These plugs are very particular in that if you don't rout the wires away from the exhaust manifold they will melt- especially the #5 plug. So be sure to install the wire in the routing clip/harness that is bolted to the engine.
The passenger side plugs are about the same as the driver's side, but for the front two you'll need to remove the plastic coolant container. It's just one bolt and you can leave the hoses in place, just move the whole container to the side. If you have AC then it's a little more difficult, but not much. The firing order is less confusing if you tape numbers on each end of the wires. The Cap and rotor should be changed when the wires are changed. All of this stuff pays for itself in gas savings and engine lifespan increasing. Always change the air filter every few months. They are cheap and save you more gas than just about any other tuneup part.
Good luck.

Check codes with OBD 2 scanner (you can get it done for free at Advanced Auto or Autozone most any chain auto parts stores that should give you your code for the engine light) If it is the oil service light (has a wrench beside the oil symbol should be amber in color and in the upper left side of display) you can reset that by putting the key in the on position (don't start it) push the gas pedal to the floor 3 times in a row light should blink a few times and turn off. If its the red oil light I would check the oil obviously if that checks out I would look in to replacing the sensor.

Either in the keyless entry module (if vehicle has keyless entry) on in a separate smaller (2 inch squarish with about 5 wires) module located on inside firewall above upper left corner of engine cover

For this question to be answered you must provide the number that is above the timing chain cover.

it is a 1978-1990 2 or 4 bolt main

Mine is located under the driver's seat.

Drain the water from your Chevy Express cooling system. Remove the water pump return hose. Remove the water pump belt. Remove the water pump retaining bolts. Reverse the process to install the new water pump.

its located in the transmission, drop the pan

the ecm on this van is on the passenger side behind the plastic kick plate

Front seating area, driver side, under dash, below steering column, mounted in relay block.

Its under the left side if you are looking at the car from the front. Get under the car and its kind of hiden near the exhaust pipes.

There is a heat sensor that allows the fan to stay on after the key is off to cool down the underhood temperatures. If the fan stays on as you have said, the sensor is most likely faulty or shorted.

* Disconnect the negative battery cable * Remove the air intake duct and the air cleaner housing assembly from the engine compartment * Disconnect the battery cable and the solenoid terminal connection from the starter solenoid * Remove the starter motor mounting bolts and detach the starter from the engine * Installation is reverse of removal

The answer I received from the premier lock-smith shop in Louisville, KY was "Probably". Generally, it has to be an identical "type" of keyless remote. Your best bet is an excellent locksmith. cost to reset is around 30.00 I was advised. (my question was on a 200l Impala)

210 hp

to the right of the steering column under the dash

FRONT SIDE

two screws on the side of the bed where the tailgate closes over have to be taken out. then you pull the whole light assembly out there are two pins in the light to hold it in they sould pull right out they will hold the light back at first and make it hard to pull but pull strait out so you dont break the pins.

With the key in the "on" position, but the radio off, press the "set" button, then press the scan buttons to change the hour and minutes. When the correct time is reached, press the set button again.

Under the black plastic cover on the passanger side of firewall. Mike

There is a secondary safety latch. The coil on the cable rests against the center pin of the secondary latch. If you push this pin up, into the main hanging bracket to release the hanger. Carfull, the whole things comes down at that point.

First and fore most try your local dealership/manufacturer's parts department or repair department. If you don't have any luck there try a local car stereo/alarm shops.Believe it or not that is where I found my wiring diagram for my 1959 cadillac.(Example: personally owned shops will probably be more curtious and friendly, but you can also try Best Buy installation shop/ Circuit City/Ultimate Electronics,. . . . . . .get the picture???? Hopefully this will help you it did me. Sept. 2007 I went to my local library (Gwinnett County, GA) and user their online subscription to the Chilton data base. It cost me $0.15 to copy the page. The brake lights on my van were not working. The third light worked fine. If the van lights were off and the brake pedal pressed, the dim (marker filament) would turn on. If the lights were on and the brake pedal pressed, the dim (marker filament) would turn off. This problem was caused by a faulty ground connection (black wire) at both brake light bulb sockets. The fix was simple and only requires a little electrical tape. I simply removed the wire retainer clip from each brake light socket. Then I pulled on the black wire. It pulled out about 1/8 inch and stopped. That fixed the problem. Do not replace the wire retainer as it will push the ground wire back into the socket breaking the ground connection. Use electrical tape to insure that the wires are held in place in the socket. Both brake lights were fixed in this way.

the diagram should be under the hood next to your latch to raise it.

Usually there is a tension pulley that a 3/8 ratchet can be used to move it to loosed it up enough to take off the old one and then put on the new one. See if there any arrows to place it on moving in the right direction. BUT THERE IS A SQUARE HOLE IN THE TENSION PULLEY THAT USUALLY IS 3/8 IN. Use a 3/8 drive ratchet wrench inserted into this square hole to release the tension. \

if you don't have a chart of the belt orientation on the engine compartment , usually near the latch / front of car, carefully draw a sketch by first drawing circles for all the pulleys then draw arrows around the circles showing the location ( Over the top or under the pulley) of the serpentine belt.

Make sure you crank the tension pulley all the way to make it easier to work the belt on and off

Behind the alternator on the driver side!