Chevy Express

start from rear passenger wheel find bleeder valve on on of brake drum top side take off cap,take a 5/16 long socket put on valve reach in with vise grips lock and loosen have someone step on brake slowly to the floor and open and close with full stream no air 4-5 times do same on driver side loosen correctly driver side away from front of car pass toward to loosen.10 mm for front pass then driver side.

This information can be found in your owner's manual. If you do not have one, then I suggest you get one. You need an owner's manual to know what items to service and when, and for specifications. You can order one from a dealer, find one at a salvage yard, ebay, or one of these sites: http://www.carownermanual.com/ http://vehicleownersmanual.com/ http://www.vintage-books.com/owncat.htm 4L-60E pan removal is 5 Quarts over haul is 11 Quarts 4L-80 E pan removal is 7.7 Quarts over haul is 13.5 Quarts so depeding upon the tranny you have these are your capacities..

If the check engine light is flashing as you are driving it means you are about to destroy the catalytic converter(s). Stop the engine and get it to a garage.

There are different features in Chevy Express vans depending of the year it was manufactured. But as an example, the Chevrolet Express van, model of 2013, has room for 8-12 passengers, front air-conditioning and a rear privacy glass. More features can be found at Chevrolets website.

The blower resistor controls the speeds of the blower motor Hi-resistance lower motor speed Lo-resistance higher motor speed

...everyone should have a manual for their vehicle(parts store or dealer), and a local library should have professional shop manuals available in the REFERENCE section for free...make copies of the appropriate sections...read up and good luck :)

I just did this yesterday. Remove the air filter assembly up to the throttle body. Remove the coolant reservoir. Unhook upper radiator hose from the fan shroud and anything else that is connected to it. There are 6 screws that attach the top part of the fan shroud to the bottom. Remove the top, leave the bottom. The rad hose and AC hose should bend enough to the towards the enging to get out the top shroud. You should probably flush the radiator now. Plug the MAF from the air filter assembly back in if you want it to run a little smoother while flushing. Watch out for the fan, and make sure it's not going to hit anything. Unfortunately your radiator probably has a non-functioning draincock, and you'll have to remove the lower radiator hose to flush and drain. Not comes the fun part. The oil cooler lines and trans cooler lines are connected to the radiator by these little c-clips. They are a pain in the rear. Use a small flat head screwdriver or something small enough to get these off. They are stainless clips, but could be surrounded by rust especially the lower ones. Try some WD40, if that doesn't work you are probably looking at new oil cooler lines (easy job). The trans cooler lines could be harder to replace, so check on that. Try to keep water from getting in the lines, and fluids from getting in your radiator hose. Unhook your upper and lower radiator hoses, and pull out the radiator. Reverse steps to install. When filling the radiator back up pour a gallon or two of coolant into the upper radiator hose and then attach to the radiator. You'll get less air in the system than if you only fill into the neck.

Try this site....http://www.kwmuth.com/techsupport/pdfs/21001190.pdf

Depends what year... 99 its right by harmonic balancer in front of motor. 03 its behind stater...

http://www.rvwholesalers.com/resources/prodigy.wmv Try the above link... the easy instructions are about in the middle of the video. EG from GA

check the fuses in the cab and under the hood but if the fuses are good then take a hammer and smack the starter not to hard some times the silinod gets stuck and the hammer can get it unstuck but if you hit it to hard you HAVE TO GO BUY A STARTER.

Where does the vacuum line lead to from the top of an 2002 Chevy express 1500 van with 5 liter engine

On the intake area? 700 Dollars The above answer sounds more like an intake manifold gasket if I was guessing. The cost of replacing a part is a very general question that unless specified exactly is hard to answer. First, is who is replacing the part? Is the Dealer, an independent repair shop, a junkyard, the guy next door or you doing the replacement. These will all yield different prices. Not to mention that within all of these will be different labor rates and different part price mark ups. Second, what is the quality of the part? Is it a name brand, generic (white box, economy), OEM or used part? All of these will be different. Price will even differ between name brands, sometimes significantly. Thirdly, What is the warranty of the part and who is offering the warranty (the shop the parts house or the manufacturer). Limited Lifetime will have restrictions. Lifetime warranty isn

the fuse my be blown or ,it needs anew gauge

Check engine light can literally point to hundreds of things. The only right way to find out is to take it to someone with electronic diagnostics.

my 2008 express with the 6.0 heats up to 260 degrees when towing a 6000lb trailor

Under the drivers seat

127x5x5

I believe I get around 22 mpg

REMOVAL PROCEDURE

Remove the engine cover.

Disconnect the spark plug wires at the ignition coils.

Disconnect the ignition coil harness connector.

Remove the ignition coil mounting bolts.

Remove the ignition coil.

INSTALLATION PROCEDURE

Install the ignition coil to the bracket.

Install the ignition coil mounting bolts.

NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.

Tighten

Tighten the ignition coil mounting bolts to 8 N.m (71 lb in) .

Connect the ignition coil harness connector.

Connect the spark plug wires at the ignition coils.

Install the engine cover.

In general, bank one is on the same side as the #1 cylinder. If the engine has more than one head, bank #2 will be on the opposite side, but if the engine only has one head there won't BE a bank #2.

Sensor 1 is the forward sensor,. It's typically screwed into the exhaust manifold right where all of the exhaust lines connect into the common line. It's about the only thing that screws into the exhaust and if you look just in front of the head-pipe you should be able to find the Oxygen sensor.

Sensor 2 is typically AFTER the catalytic converter. Sensor 2 seldom fails but of course, there are exceptions.

BTW, if bank 1 sensor 1 has failed, you can bet that bank 2 is right behind. It's kind of like sparkplugs, replace them both while you're at it.

7000

You have to take out the air box and the coolant overflow reservoir. Then on the bottom driver's side of the radiator tank, you have to open the petcock to drain the coolant. It unscrews. You will have to take the 4 bolts out that hold the upper and lower halves of the fan shroud together. Pull the wiring off of the top of the shroud. You then take the bolts out that hold the top of the shroud to the core support. Move all of the wires and lines out of the way and then remove the upper half of the fan shroud. Using pliers, remove the clamps that hold the upper and lower hoses to the radiator and remove the transmission cooler lines. (There should be a tool in your new radiator to open the spring clips that hold your transmission lines in... Otherwise, use a pick tool to remove the clips and pull the lines out of the radiator.

Remove the radiator... You really should use this as an opportunity to replace the Serpentine belt and hoses while you are in there.

Re installation is the reverse of removal.

It doesn't have a speedometer cable. It is electronic.

With screw driver, causiously prey the whole orange housing out from the body of the van. Then twist out the wired bulb housing. Then just pull out the bulb from the plug. Reverse order to replace.