Chevy G20

Relax. The lighter fluid that accidentally spilled over the side can be wiped off. The rest will evaporate in a few minutes. When you replace the lighter in the case, allow a couple of seconds for the fluid to evaporate off the flint and the wick. Then try to strike it. If the flint does not spark, wait a few seconds more. The lighter fluid is not dangerous unless it is near a heat source. Wash your hands and then try to light the lighter again. It is fine if you overfill; the lighter won't work until the excess has evaporated.

Had my van next to a Silverado, with his needle buried at 120, so skys the limit. The 4 speed is very good for the torque band this engine produces, but a 6 speed, would be balls to the wall. 1990 Chevy g20 350

Integrated into the starter.

yes, it's located at the top of the brake pedal

1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 The firing order listed above as 18436572 is correct and goes clockwise (to the right) on all Chevy v-8 engines. This firing order is also molded into the stock intake manifold towards the front (between the water outlet and the carburator). 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 and if you dont know what cyl is what it goes like this 1,3,5,&7 are on the right side of the eng when facing the rear of vehicle & 246&8 are on the left and if you need to know which prong on dist cap to start on you get #1 cyl @ top dead ctr and then remove dist cap andwhich ever prong the rotor button is on is the starting point and then go clockwise in order.

I need some help, what are you actually trying to do and what are you referring to as the flange?

Answer

To remove the seats in a Chevy express van, simply remove the four nuts located at the very bottom of the seat frame. the bolts are sticking up from the floor and it is very tight when trying to loosen them . The metal base must be removed with the seat because the actual seat fram is rivoted to this base.

Yes!

okay...the answer is no it does not have one nor does it have a reset.

When you say conversion, this will be an issue depending on what type of parts were used but the rear blower and resister for a factory unit will be in the rear of the van....

The factory blower relay will be located in the front next to the a/c accumulator........

2 tanks 2 fuel pumps. each tank will haves it's own fuel pump. i just put 2 new tanks and fuel pumps in my 87 stepside.

I have an 89 G 20 and the computer is under the drivers seat. Try following the big bunch of wires at the back of the engine and see if they go there. My 1984 G20 has it under the driver's seat. 1983 may be the same.

There is no way to get an absolutely clear answer to this question without adding a lot of information. Neither Chevy nor the conversion company wnats to be responsible for the answer so it's a litle hard to deduce, here goes; Assuming a 5.7 litre engine, 4L60E transmission and 3.42 rear end the drive train can move a combined weight of 11,000 lb If you have a 3.73 rear end the GCVWR is 12,000 lb. From this number subtract the weight of the van. My 1993 G20 weighs 5800 lb with me in it. so with my 3.42 rear end I can safely tow 5200 lb. The RPO codes on the glove box sticker will tell you what rear end you have, GU6 for the 3.42 and GT4 for the 3.73 good luck

As the manuel states disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then there are three studs and one bolt holding the heater box which the heater core is in there are also a few vacume lines and the heater controls that are attached to the box lwhich must be removed..... There are the heater water lines that need to be removed under the hood, the studs (3) have a nut that is accesable through the hood, the bolt is accesable through the inside on the passenger side firewall. you will need to remove the airducting that is under the radio top of the engine cover and remove the bolts that hold the dash in place I also found it better to unscrew the defroster ducting on the dash.

After you remove the box then you can access the core by removing aproximatly 6 or 8 screws that hold the rear cover of the box together then you will see the core which is held down by 2 hold down brackets..

good luck............... As the manuel states disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then there are three studs and one bolt holding the heater box which the heater core is in there are also a few vacume lines and the heater controls that are attached to the box lwhich must be removed..... There are the heater water lines that need to be removed under the hood, the studs (3) have a nut that is accesable through the hood, the bolt is accesable through the inside on the passenger side firewall. you will need to remove the airducting that is under the radio top of the engine cover and remove the bolts that hold the dash in place I also found it better to unscrew the defroster ducting on the dash.

After you remove the box then you can access the core by removing aproximatly 6 or 8 screws that hold the rear cover of the box together then you will see the core which is held down by 2 hold down brackets..

good luck...............

NO, it has only one fuel pump, and it is mechanical.

Clear or blackish water coming from exhaust is very common and is nothing more than condensation from the metal heating up. If you have white smoke with a sweet smell then you may have an issue, but I think your fine and just seeing condensation.

Number of reasons:

Oil hasn't been changed in a long time

Blockage of the oil pump screen

Oil pump defective (worn out)

Sludge buildup in cylinder heads slowing oil for drain down

sludge builup in pushrods

defective oil pressure sender

Most stock engines have an oil pressure of about 20 when warmed up (used) about 30 to 35 new. General rule of thumb, 8 to 10 PSI of oil pressure for every 1000 rpm.

Remove the doghouse, mark spark plug wires if they aren't already, remove spark plug wires, remove 2 screws holding the distributor cap in place. Installation is reverse of removal.

NO

MOST LIKELY ITS A 700R4 TRANS SO ITS A VACUME OPERATION NOT COMPUTER

mechanical ones, as well as electric one can fail with just normal use due to internal wear. running the vehicle low on fuel and sucking in the dirt from bottom of tank promotes early wear on internal parts...

water getting in to fuse box..in side of van or water getting in to pcm under the hood..

On a van it might be in the back passenger frame rail It is under the cab in the fuel line in the frame rail On mine, it's on the passenger side and toward the rear of the van, in front of the rear wheel. It's clamped to the frame and attaches to the steel fuel line with brass compression nuts.

behind the dash!..... an experienced tech would take about 6-7 hrs to replace a novice 15hrs.+ depending on ablities...good luck!