Chevy G20

i had the same problem and when i took the brake lights out and check the wire, it happend to be the ground was not connected, after i connected to the wall it work fine. to make it easier take both brake lights out, the whole light from the back, then look at all the wires on both side, if u see something diffrent then u problebly have ur problem

The blower motor speed resistor is burned out. That part is available from your local auto parts store.

The curb weight for a 2008 Chevrolet G3500 1 ton extended cargo van is 5,465 pounds. This van has a V-8 engine.

under the dash ,attached to the brake pedal

Open the hood and it is on the left (passenger) side near the coolant reservoir.

You can go to Crutchfield and they will send you the intricate details for this job. It is a pain. The heater has to be removed and the dash, it is difficult and time consuming.

I had this same problem and went crazy looking for a bad relay. Apparently there ISN'T a horn relay for the G-20. Probably you have one of two problems, frozen diaphragms in the horn units, or corroded contacts on their housings. For the diaphragms, take a regular hammer and give each horn a dozen firm taps - rattle them good and hard. Then try again. This is what worked for me this past weekend. For the contacts, take the connectors off (expect to lose a little skin doing it), and use a tiny wire brush to scrap the corrosion off the tab on the horn housing (both horns). One of those tiny mirrors on a flex stick helps you see what's going on - the tabs are brilliantly located in their most inaccessible orientation. Use a tiny screwdriver to scrap the metal contacts in the connectors a few times. Apply a TINY amount of dielectric grease to the tabs (it's not conductive, so don't get dumb about it) and put the connectors back on. If it isn't either of these, either no power is getting to the horn, or both horns are croaked. You can check the power situation by running a clip-on from the tab of either horn and touching the other end to the positive battery lead (make sure you're making good contact at both ends). If the horn beeps, then you probably have a broken wire or (less likely) the switches in the steering wheel are bad. If no beep, probably bad horns. Good luck!

Yes, there is a nylon ``sock`` on bottom of fuel pickup.

I bought my Chevy G20 van new in Nov. 1975 and we're still using it to carry the large loads or for hauling trailers. It has a 350 engine and a 4 barrel carburetor and only gets 10 mpg. Interestingly, while pulling our 23' travel trailer, the van still burned 10 mpg!

Chevy did not use a reset switch on there trucks. The fuel pump is inside of the fuel tank.

When I owned a G20 conversion van, it was already 6 years old or so... Seems to me that the 1994 sticker price was nearly $30,000. I have no idea what the actual (discounted?) selling price of the new vehicle was. I got it in 2000 for $6,500. The Conversion Van business pretty much ended with the gas crisis of 2008.

It doesn't. Coolant leaking into the cylinders is usually caused by a bad head gasket, cracked head or cracked block.

Trouble code P0135 means: HO2S Heater Performance Sensor 1 Trouble code P0420 means: Catalyst System Low Efficiency (Bank 1)

do you have a picture of a 90s modle chevy van on 22 inch rims

Depends on the engine and how you drive. I've seen some rated at up to 16 mpg, but I usually get 10-12 mpg with my 305 V8.

Its actually a relay not a fuse and I can't remember if there is one or two circuit centers on that year van. One will be on firewall drivers side, inside of van and if it has two it'll be under the hood.

Look under the hood for the radiator fan. The fan is mounted to the pulley at the front of the water pump.

Serpentine belt tensioner replacement. Not easy because, if it's like my 1989 G20, it's difficult to get at. However, once you access it: take a wrench to the lower pulley where there's a hexagon center bolt, twist counter clock-wise against the spring force to relieve the belt tension until you can slip the belt off the pulley. Now remove the center bolt on the spring housing. There's a self locking nut on the rear side of the mounting bracket that you will have to hold. That center bolt goes through the mounting bracket and two other struts so you have to make sure they align when you put things back together. (By the way, one of those struts sits on top of the bolt holding down the thermostat housing and makes replacing the thermostat a tough job.)

Install the new tensioner in it's relaxed state making sure the anti-rotation pin fits into the hole in the mounting bracket. When you have the center bolt tight, twist against the spring force - counter clock-wise - until you can slip the belt back into place. Make sure the belt is aligned correctly on all the pulleys.

Good luck.

Emissions problems. Check to see if the EGR valve is working correctly, the IAC valve, coolant temp sensor (the one beside the thermostat), and the MAP sensor. These sensors are used by the PCM to run your engine. Fuel overload has been a prob with mine...time to check the PCM next.

I have a 94 g-10 van and the computer is under the drivers seat My 94 G20 has two computers, one under the drivers side dash, the other under the passenger side, both are mounted against the outer wall.

check under the hood on the radiator brackets or on the intake box

The camshaft position sensor is located under the distributor cap and rotor. You'll notice a connector from the wiring harness attached to it. The engine will have to be turned over until the notch on the distributor lines up with the sensor in order to remove it

Yes it is 350 TBI is injection

Should be 5 with filter change

Caliper mounting bracket or steering knuckle. It depends on if the bracket is a separate part of the knuckle or not.