Chevy Impala

The module is failing. The turn signals and emergency flashers are both controlled electronically. The module is behind the emergency flasher switch and requires partial disassemble of the dash to access it There are several screws: 2 on the ends under the fuse covers 2 on the panel under the steering wheel and 2 by the odometer Take your ignition key off the ring, put it in the ignition and position to run so that you can put the column shift into 1 (full down) and put the steering wheel to full down in order to get the clearance to get the pannel off. Gently pull the face off the dash. Don't break off the clips. A replacement is about $40 from the dealer. GO to the junk yard and if your lucky u might find 1 for 10 bucks.. this is a commen problem with impalas i bet i looked throught 15 cars b4 i found one with a switch in it. why buy a new switch that will go bad when u can get a used one that might do the same

Remove the top engine mounts (aka Dog Bones). Remove the Air Inlet Tube. Put the Parking Brakes on. Put the Transaxle in neutral. Move the Engine forward. Ask your mother-in-law to hold it there. Change plugs. Kiss your mother-in-law. Removing the alternator helps a lot too.....

There is only one and it is located in the side tank of the radiator.

Inside of the (driver side) transmission cover. There are 2 for the 3.4l 2001 chevy impala's. Currently im working on mine

6quarter

1961.

The 2005 Chevrolet Impala takes 22" wiper blades on both sides front. See sources and related links below for more information. Since there are over 22 different wiper arm attachments, do not buy wipers just by length only - be sure to lookup exact wiper blade part numbers by vehicle make, model and year for the brand wiper you decide to purchase. This ensures correct length AND correct attachment.

93-95 Camaros, 91-97 Luminas, 95-97 Monte Carlos, 1997-2004 Ventures

The calculation method has changed a few times in the last 40 years, so it's hard to answer that question with a number.

A 69 350 had 10.5-1 compression, a mild hydraulic cam and a quadrajet carb. It made good horsepower (maybe 250-275 by today's standards) up to about 5500 rpm, and strong torque (perhaps 300+) throughout the midrange.

Underneath your vehicle, a steel threaded cable comes from the back of one hub and is joined by a short cable from the other hub--then the original cable runs to a threaded end with an adjuster nut in it--and one smaller nut on the end outside of that--(this is the equalizer bar)--you'll see it real close to your transmission. You might have to jack-up the back of the vehicle??? Pull the parking brake lever up sharply and then release it. Pull the parking brake lever to the second click and leave it there. You're looking for a slight drag of the brake shoes when you spin the wheels. To increase the drag, get under at the equalizer bar and turn the adjusting nut to take up the slack in the cables. Get out and spin the rear wheels if you think it's to tight. I will say don't be afraid to crank on it for a while as in this case, a little adjustment really does not go a long way. When you think you have the drag right, go back in the car and pull the brake up the the fourth click. At this point the wheels should be locked and you should not be able to turn them even when trying hard. If you can, tighten them up a little more. Once you've done this, release the brake and make sure the wheels spin freely. If they are still binding due to the parking brake, back off the adjustment a little. And that's basically the whole adjustment procedure.

Open and read your owner's manual. The info to answer this question is there. With your door closed press the "lock" or "unlock" button on the remote for one second. Then insert your key into the drivers side exterior door handle key entry and turn the key either left or right to unlock or lock the door (doesn't matter which). It should be reset. If it is a new keyless remote, you have to take it to the dealer to have it programmed. It costs about $45, no matter how many keys you have done. And, they tell me they have to "get online" with Germany to do it, so if you need a spare, buy it before you get programming, because they charge you every time. This is probably the best way to get a spare, because if you have a key made outside of the dealer, it may work, it may work for a while, and then stop, OR, it might cause problems with systems in the car. I have a friend with a Jetta that made the mistake of just having a key cut by a locksmith. The car does some really weird things, like the W/wipers operate off of the turn signal switch. This only happens if he doesn't have the key turned just right in the ignition.............

if you go to www.impalahq.com and find where you take the dash off this will get you in the right direction. i know you have to remove the dash to remove the key switch.

on top of the passenger's feet untder the glove box has 2 5.5 mm bolts and 2 connectors coming out of it.

350,400 or 455

17

on a 2008 impala 3.5 v6 it is above the oil filter which is underneath the car at the front of the engine . since it is a transverse engine technically it is on the side of the engine. so it is in he front of the car not in front of the engine

pink, yellow, purple and light green pink, yellow, purple and light green

My 72 Impala's trunk will fill with water because the rear window seal leaks My 72 Impala's trunk will fill with water because the rear window seal leaks

a bad relay-a bad temperature sensor.a blown fuse.A bad Ground..a BAD power Source.A COOLING FAN MOTOR THAT IS BURNT UP. a bad ign switch ---A DEAD BATTERY.etc-etc

The PCV vale is located on the extreme left side of the intake plenum when standing in front of car. remove plastic engine cover ( unscrew oil fill tube). the sensor is under the black plastic part with a small wiring harness on top of it. push down and turn counter clockwise and lift off it is spring loaded slightly. you will now see the top of pcv use needle nos to pull out sensor ...that's the PCV valve, just pull on the shinny little tube and it will came out , save the gasket (O ring) look under cover you will see slots where tabs insert line them up push down and turn clockwise.

tip remove wiring harness for a little easyer job but not needed

Drain the coolant either by undoing the bottom hose or using the drain cock. Then fill with water. Run the engine until it is at normal operating temp then drain again. Do this until the coolant is clean. Then refill the radiator either by the radiator cap or overflow tnk. Run until at operating temp then recheck the level and add as needed. That's it. Good luck.

Wheel alignment won't stop the wheel lock from working. Improper mechanical work performed could break the little locking device in the upper steering column and cause it to not catch. Most are plastic and can be broken off quite easily. When a car is parked with the steering wheel locked, if it is hit from the side front slightly causing the wheels to turn abruptly, this will also cause the parking paul to shear off the lock mechanism. So, if a mechanic was working on the vehicle with it in park and forced the wheels to turn from side to side with great force, he could shear off the catch in the upper steering column. YES if performed incorrectly. Hope this helps :>)Fullait

No, supercharged impalas were aftermarket upgrades only..the stock 94-96 impala came with a lt1 corvette powered engine..it had 260hp/ 334lbs of torque. one of chevys greatest creations

This is the way I do it: Get a spray can of AC Delco Combustion Chamber Cleaner (part # 1052626) or equivalent. Remove the Positive Crankcase Ventilation tube at the Air Inlet Duct. Start engine then spray little amount at a time thru the hole of the duct and let engine idle. Repeat a couple of times then shut engine. Let sit for awhile for the cleaner to soak in. Restart the engine and take the car for a spin. It will clean the throttle plate and the intake manifold.....