Chevy Metro

You won't find one. It didn't come with a cabin filter.

That's partially burned oil. From oil in your cylinders. Most likely from bad rings or bad valves.

If you install the throwout bearing incorrectly it can hold the pressure plate open and there will be no mechanical linkage between the transmission and the engine.

Before you take it apart to check try adjusting the clutch linkage.

The 1996 Chevy 1.3 liter engine timing marks can be found on the front main pulley and on the flywheel. The timing marks will be scattered around the outside of both locations.

If I am remembering correctly it is 3.5 - 4 qts. But to be safe I would start with 3 qts and then start the car. Let the car run for a minute and the shut it off and let it sit for a few minutes. Then check and add oil as necessary.

There are to buttons "up" "down" press and hold the left one to change the hour.Press and the left one to change minutes.

Have you got this fixed yet? if not contact me and I'll give you the info to fix it. The fix is cheap and easy. 8-9-08 Mr Geo Metro leehduncan@verizon.net

10.4 gallons maximum per the owners manual

it is in the fuel tank on mine not in the fuel line outside the tank

On most cars, the upper alternator-mount usually has an elongated hole or slot with a bolt that goes thru it and the alternator-housing. To loosen/tighten the alternator-belt, just loosen this bolt a little and the top of the alternator can then be swiveled to alter tension on the belt ...when the belt is tight enough (you can only move it 1/4" when pushing at a point that's equal distance between 2 of the pulleys, hold it in that position and tighten the bolt. Sometimes if alternator is difficult to move, it can be pried (and held in position) with wood-handle of a hammer (or other non-metallic item) placed between alternator and the mount.

Owners manual.

Regarding my question, the car came without an owners manual

I do not have an owners manual either.

There is a shift interlock system on that car which prevents you from shifting out of park until you hit the brake pedal. Basically how it works is there is 12V power at the brake light switch continually. When you touch the brakes, the switch sends power to the rear brake stop lights AND power to the solenoid on the shifter handle at the same time. If the solenoid is bad, it wont release a catch on the shifter. If you have a bad brake light pedal switch, it's not sending power to that solenoid. And here's the kicker. The fuse that powers all this nonsense is the fuse for your turn signals. Start by checking that fuse first. Most likely you have a brake switch on the pedal that is grounding out causing the fuse to blow. The switch is $20 at the auto parts store. The BWD part # is S6072. I know, had the same problem.

5w30 is recommended about 3.5- 4 quarts is normal

It is behind the back door and have a switch.

it is 37

Just pull 12V from the battery or the fuse panel. Make sure you put the appropriate sized fuse inline with you cigarette lighter. It will protect against fires. Good luck.

First you have to loosen the front wheel on the passenger side of the car. Then you jack it up, put it on jack stand and remove the wheel. Next, you have to remove the plastic shield from the wheel well. After you do this, you have to remove the crank pulley, and timing cover from the car. Next you remove the timing belt and they you'll have access to the crank seal. Not really too bad of a job. Just be careful removing the seal making sure you don't nick the crank. You can take a small drill bit and drill a hole at 3:00 and 9:00 position and screw in a couple of sheet metal screws. Then, take a pair of vise grips and in an alternating pattern, pull on each side until it comes out. If you decide to use a small screw driver to pry it out instead, cover the tip with duct tape to make sure you don't scratch that crank. After you get it out, put a light coat of oil on the outside of the new seal and use a large deep well socket the same size of the seal to GENTLY tap it back in. This job took me about two hours to do. Since it appears you've never done it before and you don't want to rush it, plan on five or six.

May need new belt but also may just be loose. I had the same problem with my 98, bought a new belt and installed, came loose after a few months. I think the bolt that holds the tension by the alternator is not beefy enough to hold tension and vibrates loose.

its the accessory fuse in my 2001 metro.. found that out when my cigarrette ligher blue the fuse and the radio didnt work... On my car it was the same fuse as the dome light. This can be found under a white cover, on the drivers side, under the dash.

Unfortunately, you have to remove the transmission.

On the fire wall side of the motor,bolted to the bell housing of the transmission. If you take it off, be sure to disconnect the battery and take the wires off the solenoid. There are two bolts to unhook it from the bell housing. Mr Geo Metro leehduncan@verizon.net

your car may need a new thermostat

I am in no way a pro at this or even sure about this, but I have a 98 Metro LSI, and have had problems with my car starting because it doesnt alway recognize that the clutch is in. I believe that is what you are asking about. If you look near the top of Clutch peddle you will find a couple of wires that go to the switch and these on my car come loose and sometimes have a bad connection. Since you have to get under the steering wheel it is not the easiest access area, but there are no panels to remove so you should be able to trace the wires to the switch if it isn't the switch that is connected to the top of the clutch. Hope that helps

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replace it or tighten it