Chevy Vans

The fuel pump is located inside the gas tank. You have to drop the tank and removing the entire sending/pump unit. Best to replace the whole assembly rather than just the pump.

Rick

I'm a retired ASE Master/L-1 Technician. I still keep current with the latest automotive technology. Visit my blog for cool articles and TSB's: http://free-auto-repair-advice.blogspot.com

Remove the spark plug wires from your 1993 Chevy Astro spark plugs. Remove the spark plugs with a 5/8 deep well socket, by turning the socket to the left. Reverse the process to install the new spark plugs.

1.passenger side at feet remove plastic cover that bolts to dash. 2.remove black plastic square looking cover this is behind first panel you removed. 3.in engine compartment on fire wall left side facing 2-small coolent line come through disconnect. 4.inside pull heater core out replace new.

You bring it to a service station and tell them to replace the oxygen sensor.

Astro Van-----2.5 L 4 cylinder, 4.3 L V6 G20 Van-------4.3 L V6, 5.0 L V8, 5.7 L V8.

To change the thermostat on a 1987 Chevy van, drain the radiator and locate the thermostat under the upper host assembly. Remove the bolts holding the thermostat in and replace it.

You probably have two problems. The first one being a faulty oil pressure switch that causes the oil pressure to give a false high reading. The knocking problem could be caused by worn main bearings or worn rod bearings. I have also experienced knocking sounds caused by a worn timing chain and/or a loose torque converter. Hope this helps you.

There about 3 basic sizes that were on that van originally, and for all practical purposes the G10 and the G20 vans used the same size axle from 1985 thru 1995, however it may be a little hard to find a van with the same axle ratio, (for example, 3.42 or 4.10), which you probably want to do just so you won't have to have your speedometer recalibrated so it will read correctly.

Before servicing the fuel filter or any other component in the fuel system, run the vehicle and figure out in the fuse box which fuse it the fuel pump fuse, remove the fuse with the vehicle running. this will reduce pressure in fuel system with less fuel lost during service. Assuming the fuel filter is external, there should be a rubber inlet fuel line and also a rubber exit line. the filter should be marked inlet and exit. remove the inlet line first. now remove the exit line. the lines should clip over a lip on the filter so just pry the part of the line that hooks onto the lip lightly over the lip and off. then remove the bracket or hardware holding the filter in place. place new filter in holder or bracket. place lines back on filter. place fuse for fuel filter back in specified location. cycle the key on and off for about 2-5 minutes to get the fuel pump to put proper pressure back in the fuel system. run the vehicle and enjoy the peace of mind knowing you replaced your own fuel filter!

This really worked the other day!

Put a wood wedge between the hood & grille piece to make a small opening to get at the latch mechanism (use wood to not mar the paint). Using a 13MM socket, 3/8 drive universal on an 8" min. length extension, put the socket thru the wedged opening to the (2) bolts that hold the mechanism. Remove the bolts, release the second safety under hood latch & the hood will open. Release the cable (from under the hood release) & you're ready to re-assemble. If the cable is completely broken, replace or put a "pull piece" from the release clip thru to outside of the grill...as a make-shift if need be. If not broken, read on...

Insure the under dash pull mechanism end piece, is still thru the clip on the release mechanism. Insure the main latching mechanism & the second safety under hood latch are well lubricated with a thick oil (more than "3-in-1" oil). Re-bolt the latching mechanism with the height adjustment based on the circular washer marks, made by the original indentations of the under bolt head washers & tighten. Now this is the important part…adjust up, the black plastic circular hood closing stops, (one to the far right & left of center) at least 1 ½ to 2 revolutions. This puts "lifting" pressure on the hood to "pop" from the latch when the under dash handle is pulled. And Walla, it's done!

== == Find the power steering pump. The fluid goes in the top of the pump. Look for a twist off cap that has a measuring stick attached to the under side, when you take it off. Make sure you use the correct type of fuild for YOUR kind of vehicle. There are different types for different makes of vehicles. Don't OVERFILL the pump.

I have a 1992 Chevy G30. Takes 10 quarts if the torque converter is empty.

You can try going to your local auto parts supply store and borrowing their diagnostic OBD code scanner. If there is a problem it will probably not be able to retrieve any codes. If you get codes then you will have a couple of places to start troubleshooting from. After my Chevy van stopped running completely, I pulled the ECM and inspected the greenboards for damage. Sure enough, mine had a burned out spot. I replaced the whole ECM for less than $300. It had to be reprogramed to my vehicle's specific VIN number and I had to retain the knock sensor and put it back on the ECM before I installed the new one. When you buy new parts ask questions. Sometimes the sexual intellectuals at the parts counter won't tell you important information unless you ask.

It is under the hood on the firewall above the air conditioner. Contrary to what the other guys said, it is not in the gas tank.

NOT EASY. TAke the mounting bolts and sll wiring off of the rear, take thknobs off and the nuts under them then work it out from under the dash

If you can't get it to start with a good battery and you can't see any bad wires, etc. - you need to remove it and take it to a parts store to be checked. (it probably makes sense to just replace it while it's off.)

at $200.00 for the starter i would make real sure you need one

also check all the starter relays, and your ign switch.

ANSWER: Just buy a new starter!