Chrysler Sebring

OIL level low, dirty oil filter.

The ABS light is on because there is a problem with the ABS system and it's not working. If you fix the problem the light will reset itself.

Above is not true since you must have a DRBIII to reset ABS CAB Because:

The light will not reset itself since Chrysler has a monopoly on the software to reset. Others have to pay a lug to get Chrysler info to reprogram it. The ABS is in a totally separate module called the CAB (Controller Anti-Lock Brakes) The module is up front under hood on passenger side (just behind headlight with large harness unscrew bolt to remove gray plug. Takes this and two bolts to remove about 5 minutes maximum. This module is on a separate buss with PCM VIN test (computer line) than the regular buss for the rest of car so can not find fault code with simple tester at auto parts store (need DRBIII hand held tester that costs $5000.00 "another Chrysler rip off"). Do not believe local mechanic to fix since none have a DRBIII, most have a Snap On tester that does not work even though most say it will. It does work for most cars but not this one and you will get told $460 just to test since they have to pay snapon $300 for the damn Chrysler software (great uh). Best is to have a dealer run a test and tell you what is bad from DRBIII code. Costs about $96 then order yourself and replace but remember all computer modules on all cars (They have all learned this ripoff method) must be programmed with the VIN number so eBay doesn't work from junk yard. You must order from company that can program the VIN. Tell me a collector car (before computer robbery) is not worth it...........

Mine is not a '96, but on this car and others I have owned - not all Chryslers - the location and amperage of each of the fuses has been detailed in the owner's manual. Check there if you haven't already.

It uses DOT3.

sounds like the air cleaner cover popped off and its suckin air when giving it gas, or you could have a vacumm line off

This is from memory only. The car is not here, so I can't look to refresh my memory. As I remember, look for the large air tube that goes from the filter to the engine throttle body. There is a sensor in the tube with wires going to it. Disconnect it or remove the sensor. Be careful not to damage the wires or sensor. Disconnect the clamp holding the air tube to the throttle body and pull the tube off. Look for two plastic tabs holding the other end of the tube into the air filter box. Squeze them in toward the tube while pulling the tube back out of the box. Pull the old filter out of the box and replace it with your new filter. Push the tube back int the new filter, hook everything back up and you're done.

It is under the housing where the lower radiator hose hooks to the engine.

Could be burning it at such a slow rate not showing smoke Could be leaking on hot part of engine and burning off How much is it consuming?

Remove the 3 plastic wing nuts in the trunk on the side you have one burnt out...pull the lens cover off from outside the car...twist the harness for the light that is burnt, pull out the bulb...replace the bulb and reassemble.

Round.

Far passenger side closer to firewall

That depends on what size tires you have and what quality tires you buy. The tires could be between $80 apiece and $250 apiece.

The camshaft is in the cylinder head.

The camshaft is in the cylinder head.

No you should not - all you need to do is make sure you have comprehensive insurance. Comprehensive insurance from a major insurance company includes THEFT.

Because the motion sensor is an aftermarket product it will void you from a warrany claim with your insurance.

I have owned 4 motorcycles and 2 cars all in NYC - I never lock my bikes, I just make sure Im covered for theft. 3 Bikes have been stolen and insurance has cut me a check with in a week each time. Insurance will not pay for aftermarket products, like my saddle bags and screamin eagle pipes unless it is named in your policy.

So basically motion dectectors do nothing other than annoy your neighbors and make you look like a guy who cares way too much about his car.

Take my advise and bulk up on insurance and then park where ever you want.

Hope this helps

It's difficult to explain how, given the space on this board. You need several tools, patience, and some understanding before you tackle that project. It's best to visit your library and get the Chilton automotive book on that car, copy the page (you can't take the book with you most of the time), and try it. If you follow the steps, it's relatively easy. If you don't want to take on the project, get a friend that is learned in auto mechanics, OR, dare it say it? Go to a shop. Ugh! $75 an hour. You decide.

It is located behind the rear seats. Once you remove them you will see the pumps and lines. There are several youtube vids on how to remove and replace it.

It controls all functions of the transmission.

Technically it uses R134a refrigerant.

The common cause is a failed blower resistor.

That is like asking how long you will live; that depends entirely on the quality of the motor, how it is cared for, less any accidents it may have. Most motors of that 'type' with average care (which translates as almost none at all) will last 150,000 miles before it is in need of any true repairs.

It is near to where the upper radiator hose attaches to the engine.

Gear ratio error in 1st gear.

Automatic transmission fluid is the proper fluid.

Automatic transmission fluid is the proper fluid.

That light indicates poor oil pressure. Not, low oil necessarily. You may have a leaky gasket.

I am not a mechanic, but own a 1999 Sebring. The "Check Engine" comes on for a myriad of reasons. The only way to find the fault is to read the code. This can be done using an engine code scanner, either do-it-yourself or taking the vehicle in to the shop. A third method involves turning the ignition key in a specific sequence which causes the light to flash the numeric code - kind of like a crude Morse code. For a 1999 Sebring, a common code is the "multiple cylinder misfire." This just says that one or more spark plug(s) failed to fire. If this occurs when changing speeds (entering or exiting a highway, for example) then the EGR valve may be the culprit. I've read that it goes bad on these vehicles. If the vehicle has more than 70k miles, then the fuel filter needs to be replaced, per the maintenance schedule. A clogged fuel filter may also cause piston misfires. Good luck.

FOR FREE YOU CAN TAKE YOUR CAR TO ADVANCED AUTO AND THEY WILL READ THE CODES AND TELL YOU WHAT IT IS CALLING FOR FOR FREE. AND ALSO RESET THE SERVICE ENGINE LIGHT IF YOU WANT THEM TO. BUT THEM YOU WOULD KNOW WHAT THE CAR IS TRYING TO TELL YOU. ALSO YOU CAN TRY TURNING THE CAR TO THE ON AND THEN OFF AND THEN ON ( WITHOUT STARTING THE ENGINE) AND IT WILL FLASH CODES ( BY HOW MANY TIMES THE SERVICE LIGHT FLASHS), JUST JOT DOWN THE NUMBER. IT WILL FLASH ONE OR TWO TIMES AND THEN START FLASHING BETWEEN ONE TO SIX TIMES. COUNT THE FLASH'S IN A ROW AND WRITE IT DOWN AND THAN WAIT AND SEE IF IT FLASH'S AGAIN AND WRITE THAT NUMBER DOWN, IT COULD TAKE A WHILE TO GET THIS DONE. BUT WITH INFORMATION IN HAND YOU CAN EITHER GOOGLE AND FIND YOUR ANSWERS OR GO TO ADVANCED AUTO OR A CAR PARTS STORE AND THEY SHOULD BE ABLE TO TELL YOU WHAT IS GOING WRONG WITH YOUR CAR.