Clutches and Flywheels

The smell comes from the new clutch and usually because you are riding it, or slipping it. Being a new clutch it reacts to almost any pressure. Stop riding or slipping it and this will stop.

The problem may be with your starter and not with the clutch.

The classic clutch symptom is slippage. Engine revolutions are not fully transferred to the transmission. Power is not fully transmitted to the drive wheels. The engine seems to race but the vehicle does not keep up! Slippage is most often caused by a worn clutch disc. Or, the clutch pressure plate may be weakened by heat, age, or abuse. In either case, it means the vehicle needs a new clutch. Replacing just one clutch part is not good practice. Automotive repair professionals will not attempt such partial repairs. Worn or damaged clutches must be replaced. Less common causes of slippage include: massive amounts of oil on the clutch, a broken disc or pressure plate, a release cable binding, or transmission damage. Obviously, an oil-soaked or broken clutch requires replacement. Slippage causes almost instant damage to the clutch. Heat produced by the slippage quickly damages friction material, contact surfaces, and springs. Clutch release problems are common. Even though the clutch pedal is depressed, you have trouble shifting. In some cases it is impossible to get the transmission into gear. Sometimes there is an accompanying sound of grinding gears! When these symptoms occur, they are most often the result of the clutch not fully disengaging. The transmission input shaft is not allowed to come to a stop. Engine revolutions are still being transmitted to the transmission. Sources for this problem vary according to the type of clutch mechanism your vehicle has. Worn pivot points, broken or bent push rod, worn or broken cross-shaft, bent pedal bracket, or cracked firewall can each cause this problem. Usually, several parts are contributing to the problem. This type of mechanism tends to wear and fail with age and continued use. If it is cable operated, a stretched, frayed or binding cable, broken or bent pedal bracket, or cracked firewall can be the cause. Problems with a cable mechanism will often herald internal clutch problems as well. When something happens inside the clutch that requires extra force to be exerted on the clutch pedal, things break! Cables can also wear simply from age and use. If it is hydraulically Clutch master cylinder leaking or bypassing pressure, slave cylinder leaking, clutch flex hose leaking, pedal bushings worn or missing, or a cracked firewall can reduce the system’s ability to disengage the clutch. Rule of thumb: If the clutch master cylinder is bad, replace both master and slave cylinders as a pair. This will save you future heartache. Not all release problems are caused by the release mechanism. Things can go wrong inside the clutch as well. A loose damper spring in the clutch disc, bent disc, frozen pilot bearing, collapsed release bearing, or metal shrapnel from a broken cover can cause the clutch to bind and not fully release when the pedal is depressed. The release fork might bend. The pivot ball can wear or break. There are many reasons for a clutch to hang up. Clutch chatter, a vibration and/or noise when engaging the clutch, is likely to be caused by an internal clutch problem. A warped disc, hotspots on the flywheel or pressure plate surfaces, worn or dry input shaft splines, fluid leak, or worn release bearing.

just like you bleed your brakes. pump the clutch pedal and hold it down, open the bleeder screw and let the air/ fliud release and then tighten it up again. repeat the process till the air is out, and keep an eye on the fluid and keep it topped up! dont let it go empty.

How do you check the clutch oil on a cr250 2001?

Why does my flywheel keep bending..

Use a 32mm spanner put it behind the fan. Then hit the spanner, a few short beats with an hammer TO THE RIGHT!!!It's a left hand thread. If the fan is released you can turn it manually. But take care for the thermostat-shell. Don't damage it by hammering on it with the spanner.

best regards from Germany

No.

Providing the hydraulics are working properly, and the proper amount of travel from the

slave cylinder to the cover assembly is good. That leads me to a problem in the cover assembly area. The release bearing while being pressed against the cover assembly

diaphragm or fingers isn't releasing pressure against the plate, as a result the clutch acts engaged even though pedal is depressed to disengage.

I have seen this problem often caused due to overheating...a common cause is "hot rodding" a clutch....a stock clutch can't stand up to the demands of "drag racing" type usage even though it was only "abused" a couple of times...

on the side of the trans where the slave cylinder goes into the bell housing, there is a gold fitting attaching the hyd. line to the slave. on that gold fitting there is a white plastic band that needs to be pushed down towards the slave cylinder. push it in far enough and the line will pull free.

It can run between $160 and $250+ to replace the clutch on this car. It depends on the part price, and the charges for the person replacing the clutch.

grease or oil on the clutch facing

Depends on what the equipment you have.

You need to find the slave cylinder (located on transmission) and have someone hold the pedal down then open valve and close when fluid stops coming out then they can release the pedal and repeat, hold pedal down (and dont move) open bleeder valve and close when fluid stops coming out, keep repeating and make sure the clutch fluid reserve does not go dry because you do not want air in system. Keep doing this until no more air comes out or you see new fluid (depending on what your trying to do). If you are trying to get clutch pedal stiffer and bleeding it does not work you may need to replace master and/or slave cylinders.

its your tranny, you probably damaged the teeth on 1st gear or your syncros went out, if all gears are not going in then its your clutch

Check fan belt tension.

Manual Shifting Your owners manual will tell you the appropriate shift speeds for your particular car. However, you may not remember the speed for each particular gear. A good rule of thumb is to shift between 3,000 and 4,000 rpm. If you don't have a tachometer or shift light, then shift when the engine starts to rev really high. (trust me, you will hear it) That's how I do it, hope it helps.

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In practice it come with experience. You don't need to remember speeds or have a tachometer. If the engine sounds as if its running unduly fast for the road speed and the vehicle is moving well, change up. If you're ascending a steep hill and the engine's labouring (it sounds as if it'[s struggling - which it is and it won't do it any good!) - change down!

Corollary - if descending a steep hill change down and ease your foot off the accelerator so the engine acts as a brake - but it will sound harsh as it's being over-driven.

you have to remove the tranny and clutch! 4-6 hours depending on who and where you get it done and the tools they have most people charge about $70/$80/hr

If you have a hydraulic clutch you may just need to add fluid.

to remove the clutch from the flywheel u will 9mm 12 point make sure when u put the clutch or flywheel u torgue it down to vw spec.

Signs a clutch is going:

Shifting gets harsh, when you shift into a gear and push gas pedel...nothing happens for a bit.....grinding noise (kinda like a wheel bearing).

That's all I can think of, symptoms I had before my clutch went out.

your clutch is automatically self adjusting ( according to the 1996 Ford Ranger

owners manual )

To replace the radiator in an Astra F, start by draining the coolant and disconnecting the negative battery terminal. Remove the hoses connected to the radiator, then unscrew any mounting bolts or clips securing it in place. Carefully lift out the old radiator and install the new one by reversing the disassembly steps, ensuring all connections are secure and refilling the coolant afterward. Finally, check for leaks and ensure the system is functioning properly.

If you go to a normal shop, the parts are rarely the issue. Clutch jobs run from $600-800 depending on the reputability of the shop and the area of the country you are in. Always check the warranty or lack thereof. They will always make up charges to get it up as close as they can to $1000, no matter if it is a subaru, SAAb, or chevy.

There will be shop fees, energy fees, disposal fees, tax, and labor at $90/hr or better. If you really want the listed labor rate go to alldata.com, get a membership, and get the actual hours of labor for the job. If they charge more hours than in alldata, go to a different shop. These are standards based on the make of the vehicle. Make sure they itemize all charges before you take the car in.

Also, BE SURE TO CHANGE THE THROW OUT BEARING. If it is integrated into the clutch slave cylinder, replace with a NEW ONE. Make sure you specify NEW hydraulic clutch fluid in the entire system. If it is a cable clutch, change the cable too. You will kick yourself later if you do not replace all the components at this time. Also, make sure the flywheel is resurfaced professionally, not just a brillo pad on a drill. Pilot bearing has to be replaced too.