Clutches and Flywheels

Should cost 400-600 in labour 300 for the part.

Changing the clutch in a rear wheel drive is one of the easier things to do.
Having it on a lift is nice but it doesn't have to be. The truck needs to be high enough to get under and work. Needs to be on jack stands or blocking sturdy enough to hold the truck steady. Do not use ramps. Remove the drive shaft, making sure the caps stay on the U joints. remove the shifter from the transmission. Take the slave cylinder off the trans., the stater, and then the transmission from the engine. You will need to support the motor in place so that it doesn't tear up the radiator or the firewall depending on the balance point. Take the trans down by pulling it back about 3 inches. Use a jack or 2 people to do this. Trans mission is somewhere around 100 lbs. On the back of the motor you will see the pressure plate held on to the flywheel with 6 bolts. Take the pressure plate off and the clutch is between the pressure plate and the flywheel. The flywheel may need to be resurfaced or you may just clean it up with coarse sandpaper. The clutch disc goes in one way with the spring assembly facing the rear of the truck. There should be an alignment tool with the clutch kit. The clutch has to be centered on the flywheel. If there is no alignment tool provided, you can center it by making sure the clutch disc is even with the edge of the pressure plate all the way around. Usually, the clutch is just a little bit smaller diameter than the pressure plate.
The throwout bearing is on the shaft coming out of the transmission. Should be held on by a fork that sticks out through the bell housing. After the throwout is replaced and you make sure it has free travel on the shaft reinstall the transmission. You may need to wiggle it a bit to get the splines on the shaft and the ones in the clutch to line up. Make sure the transmission is held straight so that the shaft in the transmission doesn't get bent. Slide the trans. to the motor and onto the alignment pins and bolt in place. Reinstall everything and you are done.

The clutch in a car equipped with a manual transmission system can sometimes stop working properly. The clutch pedal may weaken and not engage or disengage properly, much like the brake pedal in a car. When this happens, it is necessary to bleed the clutch slave cylinder; this will tighten the clutch pedal and ensure proper performance. It is helpful to ask a second person to help you bleed the clutch, as one person will need to depress the clutch pedal while the other person works in the engine bay area.

1.

Step 1

Locate the clutch release cylinder under the hood of the car. Pull off the rubber cap from the bleeder screw.

2.

Step 2

Attach the bleeder tube over the end of the bleeder screw. Push the tube in to secure it tightly and to guarantee a vacuum seal.

3.

Step 3

Fill the jar halfway with hydraulic brake fluid. Place the free end of the bleeder tube into the brake fluid.

4.

Step 4

Press the clutch pedal to the floor and release it slowly to the original position. Repeat this process several times.

5.

Step 5

Hold the clutch pedal to the floor; at the same time, use a line wrench to loosen the bleeder screw until the brake fluid begins to run out into the jar, then close the clutch cylinder bleeder screw. Repeat this step several times while watching the fluid in the jar for air bubbles. (This step works best with the help of your assistant, who can watch out for the air bubbles while you press on the clutch.)

6.

Step 6

Close the bleeder screw when the air bubbles have stopped forming in the jar.

7.

Step 7

Reattach the rubber cap to the tip of the bleeder screw.

Just had a similar problem after getting the clutch replace on a Ford Focus SVT. It was working find for a few days after getting the car back, but then stopped. So I took the car back to the dealership and explained the problem. They found out that a cable that allows you to shift to 5 & 6 gear had slid off. They said they never even touched that part of the gear box but only removed it and set it aside. (Well I called that touching) Anyways they fixed the car with no additional cost.

Get a manual on your car from AUTOBOOKSONLINE.COM They aren't expensive and it will help on the next repair.

hydraulic clutch does not have adjustment. replace the clutch it has a slave cylinder underneath and what you do is pump up the clutch and then hold it and have somone turn the line going itno th slave cylinder until you have clear fluid that is not how you bleed a clutch to the jeep owner, if you know how to bleed brakes on a vehicle, then you know how to bleed the clutch on a vehicle both done the same way.now if no parts of the clutch, such as master or slave cylander have been touched or let run out of fluid, there is still no need to bleed as that will not be the problem you might look at the linkage on the slave cylander. sometimes there is nylon bushing on the cylander rod that wears out. replace this bushing which is easy to do and your clutch will be good again.

a 390 flywheel works for alittle while.but it has 184 teeth ring gear the starter meshes to tight causing starter problems the correct flywheel with cast iron 400 bellhousing is 176 teeth.aluminum hydraulic bell housing 86&up require 180teeth flywheel.make sure you get right fly wheel for internally balanced pre 1979.1980 & up require external balance 24.2 ounce balance.

Mines just started doing that, I was having a problem with my exhaust manifold ( there was a hole in it, so big noise lol ) just had that fixed an it starts stalling everytime I press the clutch down even at high speeds funny thing is it jump starts itself when you lift the clutch again. Anyway I haven't solved it wondering if anyone had, I 'm replacing the spark plugs ( checked this morning they have quite a bit of carbon fouling on them ( & snapped one on way out so may as well change em ) changing the HT leads too so if that solves it I'll say but otherwise anyone help ? thanks

To replace a clutch cable fork on an Escort 1.85 diesel, first lift the clutch pedal to release the adjuster mechanism. Pull the cable through and hook the clutch cable fork.

They are so different it's like the difference between night and day. Most manual transmissions have a single dry friction clutch disk. Whereas an automatic uses several wet friction clutch packs- each used together/in combination under hydraulic pressure to obtain the different ratios of the transmission. Go to the Library and read books about them. Though automatic transmissions are more fascinating than manuals because of their complexity, the stick is more fun to drive.

In the clutch master cylinder next to the brake master.

Flywheel

This works on clutches and brakes and I have never known it to fail. The bleeder screw is on the slave cylinder on the transmission. Get a piece of tubing that will fit over the screw and put it over the screw and the other end in a container with enough brake fluid in it to cover the end of the hose. Loosen the screw a turn or two and slowly pump the clutch pedal. Watch the master cylinder so that it doesn't run dry. One full master cylinder of fluid should be enough to bleed the clutch. With the clutch pedal up, remove the hose and tighten the bleeder screw.

I am assuming this is an automatic transmission. The transmission fluid could be low, the filter could be plugged or your transmission could be cooked. Don't drive it, don't even try until a mechanic looks at it, could save you a thousand bucks (to replace the tranny) by letting a mechanic look at it first.

If it's a standard transmission, your clutch could be worn or burned out, or the clutch release bearing has failed, or your mechanical clutch linkage (if equipped) has become bound or disconnected, or the hydraulic clutch system (if equipped) is low on fluid or has failed somewhere.

Also there is a possibility that the differential is blown. Another possibility the e-brake is stuck on.

the front end load bearing or other bearing in the gearbox will be stuffed. when you engage the clutch the gearbox doesnt have any drive thru it so stops turning and then you noise stops.

The 2003 Ford F3 50 air conditioning clutch relay switch can be found on the firewall in the engine compartment. The air conditioning clutch relay switch will be on the passenger side of the firewall.

I think it has a hydraulic clutch and no adjustment.

look on the drivers side firewall

Most of Europe drives on the same side of the road as the US does, it's only the UK where they drive on the left side of the road.

Although the steering and cockpit configuration is on the right side, the peddles are the same. they read from right to left just like the right side traffic standard.

My 1996 Chrysler Cirrus started making noise about 2-3000 miles ago. Had a difficult time determing what was causing the noise since it went away a minute or two later after warming up. Now it is constant and the clutch is starting to smoke from friction. Driving any further may cause it to freeze and snap the belt. I tried to pull the clutch off but too difficult. Guess I have to pay $6-700 to replace it.

transmission oil cooler

Properly operated the clutch should last at least three or five years of normal driving without servicing being necessary. If a driver often "rides" the clutch, that is keeps his foot on it, then the main clutch bearing will deteriorate faster. When it becomes difficult to engage the clutch and change gears, for example it does not disengage until you step on it all the way to the floor, then the clutch should be inspected and the parts replaced as necessary.

On mine, it started leaking fluid onto the carpet behind the pedals. It's are real fix to replace the entire clutch master cylinder. There are also rebuild kits that can save you some $$.

It is not adjustable.