Clutches and Flywheels

i have a Nissan sentra that is doing the same thing

i replaced the fuel filter and it helped the problem a little bit but it still semi shuts down when accelerating over 2000 rpm

try checking the fuel regulator

ive also heard of water in the TPS (throttle position switch). Remove with a blast of compressed air.

Take to the mecanic and pay: new clutch master cylinder 175.00 new clutch slave cylinder 157.00 bottle clutch fluid 5.29 labour 513.00 GST 42.57 PST 68.96 PAID TOTAL 961.96 I fell totaly Rip off on Feb 23 2008 Tanks you mecanic Toronto Canada

You cant it is a hydraulic clutch

does the car seem to loose power when the pedal has slack in it. sounds like you have a worn out clutch that is slipping. this needs to be replaced or adjusted

You will probably be better off replacing with a new one - I've had problems with rebuilds

you have to drop the gearbox from the engine or remove the engine itself and do.unbolt the univer joint at rear end drive shaft,pull shaft forward and down then pull out of transmis unbolt trans from cross member unbolt trans from engine,put jack under trans and unbolt cros member from frame pull trans away from engine an lower,unbolt pressure plate from fly wheel remove plate an clulth,use pilot shaft to alighn cluth to fly wheel re assembly

replace the master cylinder attached to the firewall. You'll need to find your way the two nuts that bolt it to the firewall inside under the dash

Fan clutch is mounted to the fan, on the front of the motor. You will need a special tool or a BIG wrench to fit the large nut behind it. Lock the fan in place somehow, and turn the large nut clockwise(the rule:lefty loosy, right tighty, doesn't apply here) to remove the clutch/fan assembly. Once of replace clutch and re-install in reverse order of things.

How do you change a fan clutch on a 1991 bmw528i?

If you need to replace the slave cylinder it is located in the bell housing and the trans has to be removed. The clutch master cylinder is located on the firewall on the drivers side

The clutch is not being released all the way, or the clutch disk is damaged.- Or in cooler weather, you will have to delay the time that you change gears, as the transmission fluid's viscosity is thicker, and the blocker rings/sychronyzers take a little longer to allow a proper shift. If you have ATF in your tranny, then it wouldn't be a problem, but then you will have to start suspecting a bad clutch disk. OR OIL IN TRANSMISSION IS TOO THICK. SOUNDS LIKE THE PROBLEM! DOES IT GET BETTER AFTER CAR GETS HOT? YEP THATS IT, TOO THICK!

sounds like you need to bleed the clutch.or the throw out bearing was not installed correctly.or a bad slave cylinder.check the clutch fluid.to see if you lost any fluid if not all.

you may need a new gasket or too much freeplay in the cable

Most common are "slipping" issues when a load is applied. Many of the Honda Odyssey transmissions were covered under a factory recall. Check your local dealer to see if this recall applies to your car. If it does, the transmission should be repaired, or replaced, free of charge.

Put the van on the lift and drain the transmission fluid, next drop the transmission on a tranny jack and proceed to do a transmission overhaul. Reverse the proceedure to install.

if you are going to do it yourself. I can give you the basics. it is better to have the book. It is not difficult. having another set of hands, and a transmission jack are helpful. put the vehicle in neutral after putting it up on jack stands. don't do this with just the vehicle jack. Disconnect the control linkage for the shifter, speedo, and all electrical connections. it is a good idea to disconnect the neg pole on the battery anytime you work on anything electrical unless absolutly necessary. place the transmission jack under the vehicle to support the weight. take off the rear u-joint on the drive shaft. before you remove the shaft, make sure to mark it's exact position. IT maintains the balance of the shaft. remove the shaft from the u-joint and slide the drive shaft out of the rear of the transmission. Remove the bolts that secure the transmission and bell housing to the motor. make sure the weight of the tranny is supported. wiggle the tranny back until it disengages from the motor. Lower the tranny and take it out from under the vehicle. look inside the bell housing and you will see the clutch, pressure plate, and throw-out bearing. Replace all. You will need to remove the throw out bearing linkage.(fork) or yoke depending on where you live. once the linkage is removed the the bolts need to be removed, and the system removed and replaced. That is just the idea of what will need to be done just to get it out. it is better to have the manual. haynes manuals can be found at the parts store and they will give you step by step directions. plan one to two days to do the repair. the less the experience the more time. hope it helps. duboff

Bad throw-out bearing?

it sounds like a bad throw out bearing or clutch plate. not a major deal it just starts to get louder but eventually you going to have to replace it when you do your next clutch job.

chris

ask.com

The problem might be air. If an air bubble is trapped in the cooling system, coolant is not circulating as it should, since a portion of the closed system is occupied by that air. As a result, what should be a column of coolant is not reaching the coolant temperature sensor. What reaches that sensor instead is hot foam, which does not have the capacity to transmit heat to the sensing portion of the sensor as coolant does. WHAT REACHES THE DASH GAUGE, THEREFORE, IS NOT AN ACCURATE REPRESENTATION OF THE TRUE ENGINE TEMPERATURE. While at idle, the engine is not circulating coolant at the same rate as it circulates at road speeds; therefore, when the vehicle is traveling down the road, more coolant reaches the sensor, and a reading which more accurately depicts actual engine temperature is rendered at the gauge. This is a condition which is harmful to the engine, and is easily cured. It is harmful due to the fact that the air involved routinely finds its way to the uppermost regions of the engine--- most notably the cylinder head--- which heats excessively due to the lack of cooling. The result is a blown head gasket, or a warped head, or a cracked head or block, or any combination of these. At the most severe point, this can lead to the need to replace the engine. It is easily cured through the process of burping and bleeding the cooling system. This involves topping off the coolant on a cold engine, opening a line leading to the heater core, letting the air out of the line, reattaching the line, and starting the engine with the radiator cap removed. The engine should be run until the thermostat begins to open, at which point the cooling system will begin the exchange of coolant between the engine and the radiator. NOTE: THE COOLANT ARRIVING FROM THE ENGINE IS HOT, AND CAN SCALD. CARE SHOULD BE TAKEN TO STAND BY WITH THE CAP TO THE RADIATOR IN ORDER TO INSTALL IT BACK ONTO THE RADIATOR SHOULD THE FLOW BECOME UNMANAGEABLE. THE OBJECT IS TO ALLOW AIR OUT OF THE SYSTEM WHILE THE SYSTEM IS TOTALLY OPEN AND CIRCULATING, AND THIS IS ACCOMPLISHED WHEN THE THERMOSTAT IS OPEN AND THE ENGINE IS RUNNING WITH THE CAP REMOVED FROM THE RADIATOR. Once coolant begins to be drawn from the radiator into the engine by the water pump, the level in the radiator will drop. IT IS AT THIS POINT THAT COOLANT IS ADDED TO THE RADIATOR AND THE THROTTLE IS OPENED WIDER(ACCELERATING THE ENGINE TO A HIGHER RPM) TO FORCE AIR OUT AS IT IS FORCIBLY DISPLACED BY THE TURBULENCE OF INRUSHING COOLANT. Once the radiator level peaks and will hold no more, the cap is installed, and the throttle is allowed to return to its normal position. The next step is to turn the heater on HIGH HEAT, with the fan running, and cycle the accelerator through a repetition of high-low RPM pulses to displace the last bits of air toward the radiator. When full heat is experienced through the heater, the engine is shut down and allowed to "heat soak" until cool. Once cool, the radiator cap is again removed, and the radiator is topped-off. The cap is then replaced. Topping off the recovery tank and replacing its cap completes the process. The cooling system has now been burped and bled, ensuring a solid column of coolant in toto. Happy Motoring...

inside the transmission bell housing

a mechanic can prssure bleed the clutch to remove air. usually this cannot be done by the home handyman. if that doesnt work, there is still a leak somewhere in system that is letting air in

answers

vacuum bleeder -from the slave ,figugre out a way to unbolt the slave cylinder with fluid pipe installed tight already,it has to be disengage from the fork,then vacuum bleed it like you do brakes without a hassle,then install the cylinder.

the easiest way is to take out the engine, but that would be to easy so firstly you have to take off the left hand side tyre(passenger side).disconnect the tracking "leg", dat bits da easy part.

theres 3 bolts around the starter you will need a size 12 socket head.be carefull now to unscrew the gear box cover (oil every where.)

Fracing truck radiator with hood up. To the inner (towards radiator) side of the of light bezel is a vertical rubber strip 1/2" x 6" or so high. Rubber strip hinges expsosing a recessed socket with either Allen or torx. Rotate this socket to adjust up or down. Can't remember which way to turn for up or down. YOU can see long silver colored shaft from the Allen or torx socket extening to the rear of the headlight housing.

Single cylinder engines give a "push" to the system only once per cycle. A large flywheel provides mass and thus stability to the rotary motion being created by the engine. (It smooths out the motion of the system.)