Clutches and Flywheels

The clutch does come off but not without special tools. You will need a special tool to pull and install the front disc. The air gap is adjusted as you install the front disc, .015 to .020 if memory serves me right.

Trouble code P0740 means: A/T Torque Converter Clutch System Out of Range

Yes. Most Toyota cars use hydraulic clutches. That is why you have to put fluid in the clutch reservour.

Normally if the clutch fluid reservoir is low the slave cylinder is leaking at the transmission on the right hand side.Check the fluid level then check the slave and if it's leaking it will be there and typical visual is cracked rubber boot coated in brake fluid.Result to fix replave this part and bleed it as you would brakes,there is a bleeder screw on the slave cyldr and have another person pump the clutch pedal to remove excess air out of system.

If your hear "ticking" and have to use WD40

You can buy an alignment tool that centers the clutch disc. If you buy a complete clutch kit with the clutch, pressure plate and throwout bearing there should be a plastic one with it. If just changing the disc, get it in place and start all the bolts holding the pressure plate on. Tighten them till the pressure plate just touches the clutch disc. The disc should be the same diameter as the pressure plate or just slightly smaller. Feel around the edge of the pressure plate till you have it centered. Tighten the bolts holding the pressure plate and finish putting the transmission in. This is usually close enough to allow the transmission to bolt up. Even with an alignment tool, you should do this because the tool doesn't hold the clutch disc exactly centered.

The clutch assembly is bolted to the engine flywheel and is sandwiched between the engine and gearbox so you'll need to separate the two to gain access. It's actually separating them that is the bulk of the job as unbolting the clutch assembly and bolting on a new one is a quick and easy job. I won't go into lots of detail as the exact procedure varies between makes and models, but generally it goes something like this:

1) Disconnect battery and reverse light switch wiring from gearbox

2) Slacken and disconnect clutch cable from the release arm, or if hydraulically operated, unbolt the slave cylinder and tie up out of the way

3) Remove stuff in the engine bay so you've got access around the front, top and back of gearbox (e.g. battery tray, air filter housing, etc.)

4) Slacken wheel nuts on both front wheels, chock rear wheels and jack up the front end of the car. Remove both front wheels.

5) Remove split pin (if fitted) and undo bottom balljoint nut from lower suspension arm/hub carrier assembly on both sides. Separate arm from hub carrier assembly so that it can swing outwards, limited by position of the steering linkage

6) Drain gear oil from gearbox and then lever the inner CV joints out of the gearbox. It's important that after removing one CV joint you insert something like a broom handle or offcut of plastic piping into the differential pinion before removing the CV joint on the other side otherwise the pinions can fall into the gearbox requiring it to be dismantled to retrieve!!! The broom handle/piping keeps the pinions in place so make sure it doesn't come out

7) Put a clean plastic carrier bag over the splined end of each CV joint and secure with an elastic band so that it doesn't get dirt/grit stuck to it. Tie up out of the way of the gearbox and so that the driveshafts aren't straining the outer CV joints.

8) Disconnect the gear selector linkage (several types used so refer to your workshop manual for specific instructions)

9) Place a block of wood under the gearbox end of the engine's sump (oil pan) and jack under the wood to just take the weight of the engine

10) Disconnect wiring from the starter motor and then unbolt and remove. A few cars do not need this to be removed to detach the gearbox but is most cases it needs to come off

11) Slacken all the bolts holding the gearbox bell-housing to the engine block. Remove any flywheel cover plates that may be fitted to the engine block (usually underneath and possibly on the rear)

12) Remove any mountings securing the gearbox to the body. If there's a cross member beneath the gearbox/engine then this may need to be removed too. There may also be a mounting on the rear of the engine to the bulkhead - this can be left alone if it isn't attached to the gearbox. AT THIS POINT THE ENGINE IS SUPPORTED SOLELY BY THE JACK/WOOD AND PROBABLY ONE MOUNTING SO BE CAREFUL NOT TO DISTURB THE JACK OR ALLOW THE ENGINE TO ROLL OFF IT

13) The gearbox should now only be supported by the bolts and dowels holding it to the engine block. Place another jack under the gearbox and raise so that it takes the weight of the gearbox without lifting it or the engine.

14) Remove all the bolts from the bell-housing to engine block. Pull the gearbox away from the engine block so that there is clear gap between the two. It may be necessary to remove plastic shields or other bracketry to give room for the gearbox to move away from the engine.

15) Lower the gearbox under the car, being careful that it doesn't roll off the jack and that the engine is still held in position by it's jack and any mounting left attached.

You can now replace the clutch assembly (don't forget the release bearing attached to the release arm of the gearbox!) and refit. Don't forget to refill the gearbox with the correct grade oil once the job is completed and the car is back on all four wheels.

The clutch start cancel button will eliminate the need to press the clutch in to start the truck. This is useful in mostly offroad situations where pushing in the clutch to start the truck might allow the truck to roll from a precarious position such as off of a rock or back down a hill. You are starting the truck "in gear" so that there is no jerky movements with engaging the clutch. This works best when in the transfer case is in Low. The front hubs should also be locked.

To use when on a steep hill or crawling over rocks:

* keep your foot on the brake.

* press the clutch start cancel button.

* turn the key to start the truck.

* as the truck begins to move, ease up on the brake to allow the truck to move forward and start.

* as the truck starts apply the accelerator pedal as needed to keep you going and prevent stalling.

* If you stall it's OK, just keep using the clutch start cancel button until you are out of the situation

It is important that you bench bleed the unit before you install it and keep the reservoir full during the process.

The reservoir is under the hood on the drivers side firewall. The slave cylinder on my 97 4 cylinder is on the drivers side of the transmission. I believe you can see the bleeders near the top of the tranny.

single plate cluthch is a devie wchichj can with stand various force acting on abod

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Take it to the dealer or garage as it is hard to get the air out of the line.

i need to find the dip stick for a transmission for 91 integra ls

did you bleed the system, perhaps you have air in the system.

Look in the classified ads of you local newspaper. Find a listing that says "1998 Chevy S-10, automatic transmission." Offer the guy 10% less than the asking price. Buy it. Place an ad in the same paper, "1998 Chevy S-10, manual transmission." Include your phone number. Sell it to the first person who comes close to your price. Yeah, I know that's a smart a** answer, but it's cheaper and a WHOLE lot less trouble than what you're thinking of. All sorts of things aren't going to fit up right. And even if you accomplish your mission, you'll have an 8 year old truck that might have been worth six grand before you messed with it, after who knows if anybody will take it off your hands for any price.

you need a clutch that's all

No…. It is not necessary to replace the fly wheel but, it is recommended that the fly wheel be "turned" to create a new surface for the new clutch pack. (Much in the same way you resurface a disk or drum for new brake pads or shoes.) In the event that you don't have a machine shop in your area, a good emery cloth rubbed in a spiral motion on the fly wheel to knock the "glaze" off should suffice.

What is the torque for the flywheel nut on mercury 200 h.p.

Johngig123's answer;

Per the manual I have for Mercury outboards;

4-cyl. models 45, 50, 500 and 650- 65 ft-lb (88Nm)

3-cyl. models 50, 60, 70 650 and 700 - 85 ft-lb (115Nm)

4-cyl. models 75, 80, 800 and 850 - 100 ft-lb (136NM)

section of manual data taken from covers;

45hp 4-cyl 1986 & on

model 500 4-cyl 1965-79

50hp 4-cyl 1980-1985

50hp 3-cyl 1986-90

60hp 3-cyl 1984-90

model 650 4-cyl 1965-71

model 700 3-cyl 1980-83

75hp 4-cyl 1984-86

model 800 4-cyl 1969-72

model 800 4-cyl 1978-79

80hp 4-cyl 1980-83

model 850 4-cyl 1973-77

One cause for the key not turning all the way off could be that the tumblers in the ignition lock mechanism are out of alignment. It could be your shift lock control awitch. torque lock. This occurs when you are on a hill and you put your car into park and it rolls back a bit. Use your parking brake! It's there for a reason! Here is a site that will help clear things up: http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h18.pdf (You must have Adobe Acrobat Reader to view the inforomation.) It is roughly page three that covers the "shift lock release button" and the shift solenoid. If your vehicle is equipped with a "release" or "overide" button then it is almost certain the problem is with the shift lock solenoid. A failing solenoid can be affected by temperature variations. I hope this will help all that reads; it helped me. Philsy

take the car to a mechanic you dont want to tackle the clutch on an eclipse it totally sucks. you will definitely save yourself time money and headaches by just going to a mechanic

Provided you have a lift and a transmission jack the time will be about 5 1/2 hours.

it is used as a locking device to secure a range of parts

First remove the accessory drive belt- then loosen the large nut that attaches the fan clutch assembly to the water pump pulley being careful to loosen the nut clock wise not counter clockwise (It is a left handed thread)-now you can remove the fan to clutch bolts so you can separate the clutch assembly from the fan.