Clutches and Flywheels

Nothing at all if you are slightly mechanically inclined... I did it on my 96 eclipse gs yesterday and it took myself, my older brother, a 10mm open ended wrench *with the closed end on it*, a flashlight, and about 5-10 minutes... it's quite simple..

1)insert friend/family member in car to depress the clutch when needed

2)find the bleeder valve/nipple

3)tell person in car to depress the clutch and hold it

4)open the valve

5)have person in the car pump the clutch about 3 times then hold

6)close the valve

7)fill the resovoir

8)redo steps 3-7 about 3-4 times until the clutch feels more springy and less like mush *at least this was the case with mine*

9) fill the resovoir again, depress the clutch a couple times and top off the resovoir

10) test drive *MAKE SURE YOU TIGHTENED THE VALVE*

That rod is supposed to go from your clutch slave cylinder to your clutch arm. If you do not have that rod in place then your clutch will not disengage when you press the clutch pedal to the floor. You must remove the slave cylinder to install the slave/clutch arm push rod.

Depending on their GVWR and distances they're expected to travel, they can have either an Allison automatic transmission or an autoshift transmission, which is a twin countershaft manual transmission gearbox with automated shifting and an automated clutch.

Not sure what engine you are working on but sometimes you can roll the engine backward and get the gear to disengauge .

The clutch safety switch is located on the linkage attached to the pedal,approx. 6" up from the pad, however if your f-150 has cruise control,the cutout switch and the clutch safety switch are often a common switch(meaning that both switches are built into one unit) also you did not specify what year your truck is.with-out the year and the options I cannot tell you which wires you need to connect to by-pass the switch. Of course the switch was put there for safety reasons and should not be eliminated

First, find out why the reservoir is empty. If you've developed a leak, you need to find out where it is and fix it. You might be able to get by just with a little fluid in the reservoir, but it will be far less headache in the future if you just fix the problem. Check for leaks in the clutch release cylinder. A new one costs about $60. You will need to bleed the system after adding fluid. Attach clear tubing (5/16" inside diameter, about 1 ~ 2 feet long) to the bleeder nipple on the release cylinder and run it to a container, loosen the nipple, have someone depress the clutch pedal and hold it down. Tighten the bleed nipple before the clutch pedal is released. Repeat until fluid runs out with no bubbles.

No. It is self adjusting.

Bad clutch slave cylinder or failed soft hose from master to slave cylinder.

a manual will help with diagnosis and repair, and a shop manual should be available at the local library in the reference section, make copies of the right pages, good luck...:)

you need a flat screw driver & a 9/16 box wrench ,slide the over the screwdriver insert it into slot inside the locknut put the wrench on the loc nut holding the screwdriver firm and with a sharp slap on the wrench counter clockwise that should do it.to relock it do in reverse order after the adjustment is made.

It is on the front of the bell housing of the transmission. To find it trace a "brake line" fitting from the firewall to the bottom of the transmission bell housing.

clutch pedal over -centre spring pressure

Do you mean that the car will not shift into first? The clutch is the left pedal on the floor and should work independently of which gear is selected. If the car will not shift into first the clutch may need to be replaced, transmission synchros or gear teeth for first gear could be damaged(chipped,missing or broken) or the shift selector shaft might need to be realigned and/or have it's bushings replaced.

The 95 SE has an hydraulic-assist clutch that is slaved off of the brake master cylinder.

This may be due to a faulty clutch. If the vehicle has over 70K on the clutch it is reccomended that it be replaced. If the clutch "slips" or takes a min before it finally engages then i would reccomed replacing the clutch. Make sure to change the Release Bearing and the pilot bearing as well this may also contribute to the problem.

im sure this is on the clutch pedal itself.

In a manual trans. car- YES, In an automatic it is called a flex plate, since it is only there to start the car.

The abs uses the brake fluid from the regular brake master cylinder.

105 ft lbs if its a 4.0. dont forget the blue thread locker.

if its hydraulic there could be air in your line. bleed your clutch and refill.

yes it is with the slave cylinder being inside the bee housing. the clutch master cylinder reservior is to the right facing the firewall. it requires brake fluid

Refer to your Chilton's manual.

Nope, way different. The engines require different flywheels. There may be a possibility that the disc and pressure plate will work, but I would assume not. The toploader from the small block won't work as its input shaft is about 3/8" longer. It can be cut and rebeveled though. If you try to bolt the small-block trans onto the big-block bellhousing you will force the crank forward and the thrust bearing on #3 crank journal will quickly go bad and you will still have a small gap between the trans front face and the mating surface on the bellhousing and possibly break the bolt "ears" off the trans. Also, some 429's used the 1-3/8" input shaft and some had the 1-1/16". Buy the clutch disc according to the trans used. Also, make sure your front suspension is set up for the extra weight of the 429. The 429, believe it or not, is way heavier than the older FE engine series and I'm near certain it is heavier than any other V-8 by any other manufacturer. If you think not, look it up.