Daewoo Matiz

its your altinator, mines done it for 3 years.

It is F9 and it is located under the instrument panel, Put your head under the dash , look up into the open space and high up into this space is the fuse box with a cover over it. Another way is it is at the same height as the ignition switch behind the dash.

Daewoo Matiz is listed as an interference engine. There is a most likely chance of engine damage ocuring in the event of the timing belt failing

Everything in your car will eventually stop working. Mileage temperature and driving conditions all play a part its just a normal thing that happens.

is actually quite simple. first. 1. open boot. 2. you will see 2 black screws. take these out. 3. push the light to the side slightly to gain a grip then pull straight out. 4. twist the connector and out comes the bulb and attachments. 5. the bulb twists out. replace offending bulb and put it all back together the same way it came out.

The adjuster is located in the engine compartment on top of the gearbox assembly. It is easier to see with the airbox removed but can also be accessed with it in place. You will see the clutch release arm and the cable attached to it. Slacken off the 10mm locknut at the end of the cable and by pulling on the end of the cable the plasitic portion of the adjuster will move away from the release arm. The plastic piece is also threaded onto the cable and by screwing in or out will adjust the freeplay between the release bearing and the cover plate. It should be adjusted so that both the clutch pedal and the brake pedal are about the same height when viewed in the car.

To change the fuse look on the drivers side under the steering wheel and towards the door. There should be a pannel that pulls off and your fuse box is in there. Also when you remove the pannel there is a diagram on the back of which fuse is which and you just follow that and remove the one that is dead and replace it.

There are more than 50 problems that will cause a check engine light to stay on. The most common reason is the circuit board needs to be replaced. The only way to know why the light is on is to run a diagnostic test.

MIl light comes on as a result of any fault with the engine's Euro functioning. It can be any of the sensors or the heated oxygen sensor or even the ERG valve. When the MIL comes on cranking the engine wont help but sometimes when the fault is minimal, the engine may start but it wont be smooth. Also, the pollution norms wont be met. It is best to carry the vehicle to a local mechanic who has an Euro On board testing tool to decode the error, which is stored in the ECM of the car. Dears, Check the relays specially fuel pump relay ...for sure

remove timing cover

both washer pumps are under wheel arch liner. drivers side front, remove arch liner bolts,push back liner 3 bolts hold washer bottle,you have to take indcator out to access one of the bolts.other 2 under wheel arch.

What year is your car? if it is a '98 - '01 model, european, the fusebox is located in the glove compartment, you will see two white clasps in the top of the glovebox. rotate these down, and pull down on the top of the inside of the glovebox, and you will see fuses 1 - 45. there is a legend for the fuses tucked under the fuses. otherwise, if you open the trunk/boot, you will find the rest of the fuses on the right hand side, in the compartment behind the right rear light cluster. it also has a legend for all the fuses 46 - 65. hope that helps!

front hub 120nm i think

No, you can not deactivate

If it's a W reg (2000 plate) 0.8 then pull the glove box right out. This does take a bit of force but it goes back in. There is a thick yellow wire that you can't miss with a connector in the middle. Disconnect that and job done. There will be a light, bottom left, on the dash that tells you it's off.

I should imagine this works on most models.

In what sequence does it go back

probably best to get a manual .I didnt have one and spent a long time.(I do most of my own car mechanics and found it a sod.)The problem,as typically on my car is very tight access and corroded fixings. First get a new cable and study it and look under the car to follow the course of the cable as it isn't obvious from the top where it enters the engine compartment .(You will need to jack up the car a little and secure safely with axle stands to get to the clutch end. )The stirrup end attaches to a notch in the clutch pedal arm and this is kept in place by the end of the spring that tensions the clutch pedal. I found it necessary to take the whole clutch lever off its bush(14 mm socket)but note carefully which way the spring goes on the shaft and where the 2 free ends locate.If you don't it might take you along time to work it out. The outer cable is attached by a bracket with 2x 10 mm headed shouldered nuts and is very difficult to access with spanners as very little room. I used ratchet spanners and it was very awkward ;perhaps an1/4th drive socket might have worked better. Dont lose the nuts. Pull the cable off and you will note there are 2 little spacer bushes that go over the studs on the bulkhead .Dont lose these either as the new cable wont come with them and you need them to reattach the nuts properly, which will dig in otherwise. At the other end the cable passes through a holder and rigid bracket to the left front side of engine .You will find a threaded rod that goes through a pivot pin in the clutch actuater arm and is fixed by a special adjuster nut This might be corroded on and if so you will need to saw through the threaded rod.If you are lucky you may be able to get the nut off the remnant with heat and a vice.I couldn't but 2x10 mm bolts will do (one will act as a spacer in the arm) leave the old cable roughly in place for now.

Guide the new cable behind the engine by the old one. Use a piece of bent wire from the cabin side to draw in the stirrup of the cable and make sure the cable is the right way up. Connect the stirrup into the notch and grease and reassemble the clutch pedal pivot and spring the correct way !!.Then reattach the outer cable bracket with the 2 stud spacers and shouldered bolts. I found it difficult to get the nuts to the studs due to the space constraints and dropped them several times.Whenyou achieve this go to the other end and insert the cable end though the brackets and into the pivot pin .Then force the rubber cone into its bracket and do up the adjuster nut on the clutch arm until there is only a little free play in the arm . I found that the clutch pedal was high initially then the cable slacked off considerably after a few miles and had to readjust hugely (my daughter was 10 miles away by then )This is easy however

Possibly i was having a bad day. Should be 15 mins ,took me 2 hours!!

Try disconnecting the battery for 20 minutes then reconnect.

at the left hand side of the passenger seat is a black rubber button at the left hand side of the passenger seat is a black rubber button

It is near the bottom of the timing belt in a Chevy. It is part of the ignition system.

that part of the manifold has an O ring behind it you have in to remove the manifold

to replace it,its a pig of a job,be prepared to cut down spanners to get in and have some band aids on hand for the cuts.

For 2 passenger it is 30 psi, with 4 it is 32 psi.

quite easy it has a slide bracket on alternater slide one way it is loose slide the other way it will tighten. quite easy it has a slide bracket on alternater slide one way it is loose slide the other way it will tighten.

Doesn't have one sorry, Daewoo saved 32p on each one this way.

open the lift-gate and take off the tail lamp

looking at the engine left plug =1 center = 2 rigth =3 1 goes to 12 o'clock 2 goes to 3 o'clock 3 goes to 6 o'clock i noted this down when i changed mine Amos