The check gauges light usually means that one of the gauges is out of its normal range. It could be due to an overheat, a under/over charging alternator, low oil pressure....
Because one or more of the gauges is not in the safe zone.
ie: over/under charging, overheating, low oil pressure.....
gas gauge is at or near empty
1) Unscrew the speedometer assembly from the top of the tank and undo the two electrical connections as well as the existing speedometer cable.
2) Unhook the gas line from the top of the tank.
3) Remove the two bolts holding the tank to the frame, making sure to safely tuck the choke cable out of harms way.
4) Remove the fuel line from the petcock, making sure the line is set to the off position.
5) Remove the gas tank and set it aside.
6) Remove the left frame beauty cover to expose the front of the frame.
7) Unscrew the speedometer cable from speedo gear at wheel hub.
8) Carefully pull the speedometer out of the frame from the bottom.
9) Replace the new speedometer cable, routing from the wheel hub up into the frame.
10) Replace all parts in reverse order.
There is not much room to route the speedometer cable, especially when you get to the neck of the frame. the gas tank and beauty cover must be removed if you hope to get the cable through.
theres something wrong on ur headlamps or bulbs (wrong setup, burned bulb, or something of that nature)
P0455 means a gross leak detected in the Evaporative Emissions System. Some call this a "gas cap" code, because the most common cause a loose or failed gas cap. But it could be caused by any vapor leak in the fuel tank, filler neck, or anywhere else in the vapor management system. If it isn't a gas cap, you will need tol take it someplace where they have a smoke machine that can find the leak using smoke.
oil pressure is created by the oil pump, which is driven mechanically as the engine turns, and the faster it revs the harder it pumps. It should deliver enough pressure at idle for the light to stay off. Your problem is either a worn oil pump or your oil is too thin and needs changing. If you have an old engine, put in a heavier oil. Penrite 50 is good. Hi another possibility is your idle is set too low Also, you could have a bad or weak pressure release valve in your oil pump. (AKA bypass valve). In addition, if the oil has not been changed in a long time the oil filter may be filled with sludge reducing the pressure. Changing the oil and filter first to heavier oil is a good first step.
Your engine bearings may be worn and letting too much oil escape, resulting in low pressure when the oil pump is running slower (when the engine is running at idle). Revving the engine too high can cause damage to the rod bearings and allow oil to escape too easily. If your engine has a lot of miles on it, or if it has been run without changing the oil regularly, your engine will have a lot of wear. The oil pump, main bearings, rod bearings, and camshaft bearings may all have a lot of wear on them allowing the oil to easily escape without allowing pressure to build up. Rebuilding your engine may be needed. But try changing the oil pump first.
It is telling you it is time to get your oil changed.
ok, SRS light on, your mechanic is an wrong. If you have any electronic devices in or around your passenger seat, this will set the srs light. should be able to clear codes by re-flashing srs unit or re-initialize the system. if your vehicle has not been in an accident, it is almost certain there is nothing wrong with the srs unit itself. im not saying it couldn't happen, just very unlikely.
My mechanic has pulled the codes and it indicated a new SRS computer is required. Since it was $400 he tried something. He hooked the PGM hand-held computer to the car and re-booted the SRS computer. It worked for 6 months and then it came back on. Another reboot and 2 weeks later it's on again. I don't want to part with the $400+ but I trust he's on the money when he says it needs to be replaced. I am going to look into one more thing with the seat sensor first. I have 157,000 on my 96 Odyssey.
I admire the simplistic logic of the "pulling out the bulb" solution. However, it should be noted that until you reset the code, your airbag will NOT deploy. So, bite the bullet and pay for the code to be reset, or find out how to do it yourself from some motorhead website. It involves jumping out some pins under your dash.
While I am a avid DIYer, Airbag systems are best left to the Pros. That being said, there is a lithium battery inside the airbag computer. For $400, I would look for faulty/cracked solder connections inside the airbag computer and test the little $4 battery. On the Accord there are three impact sensors, one in each floorboard and one in the computer itself (bags wont fire unless two out of three have been tripped). Get the factory service manual (www.helminc.com)and observe ALL safety precautions regarding putting safety jumpers on airbag connectors,etc. Airbag inflators contain rocket fuel and the passenger bag will probably break the windscreen when it fires....
Since the SRS control unit is a computer, it may be sensitive to things like a faulty alternator/voltage regulator, high power radio transmitters, alien spacecraft, etc.
the absolutely first question to ask is if anybody has done any electrical work on the car (aftermarket stereo, alarm, etc). Also, has the car gotten wet inside (flood).
When that light is on, the airbags may NOT deploy in a crash. FIX IT!!! Pulling the bulb out means now the light is not on but the AIRBAGS MAY NOT DEPLOY!
It shouldn't go on and still start as I understand it. The fuel pump inertia switch it designed to shut the fuel pump off in case of a fuel leak or an accident. Inside the switch is a ball that is held magnetly rolls forward and engages a swith to stop fuel flow. It can be reset by by a button the top of the switch. It is located in the left rear of the trunk compartment.
If it's anything like my 92 Sunbird, (and they do have the same inherent problems), they are leaky cars (water wise) and it's probably wiring. There's a grounding problem it sounds like. I used to have a similar problem in my 92 when I used the cigarette lighter, it would blow the taillight fuse everytime. Replaced the cigarette lighter and problem went away. See, the cigarette lighter was rusted and the ground was faulty, so it would ground to the nearest fuse (which was taillight fuse) overload it, and blow the taillight fuse. Your parking lights are probably not grounded properly and it is doing the same thing my cigarette lighter was. Is it just me or are these cars just like the old Ford Tempo's and Dodge K cars, very reliable for the most part, but very leaky?!
Buy a Haynes manual first. Its quite an involved process so you may want to get someone else to do it or make do. I did mine when I took the dash out to replace the heater blower fan. If I remember correctly you have take the plastic cowl off from around the steering column and then remove the piece of fascia that surrounds the plastic covering the dials. Not sure if you have to remove the steering wheel but it will make it easier. You will need a set of torx bits a and screw drivers to do it.
Have vehicle scanned to determine the problem
The most probable cause is that one or multiple heater plugs are faulty.
It is a common fault with the EA, EB and ED falcons as well as some Holden Commodore and Nissan models which share the same speedo components. The problem usually occurs when they get to about 200,000kms. What the problem is there is a very small cog inside your speedo which drives the odometer mechanism. This cog loks like something you would find in a toy. What you will find has happened is one of the teeth has broken off it and it can no longer drive the odometer. Because it is a common problem the part to fix it is available just ring around or try ebay. To fix the problem yourself pull out the instrument cluster then undo the screws that hold the front panel (4 fairly short ones on the side and 4 very long ones on the back), remove front panel. Then undo the four centre screws which hold in the speedo. Once you pull it out remove the trip meter plunger and then the needle by turning it carefully in a counter clockwise direcvtion several times until it comes out. Then remove the screws that hold on the faceplate and remove same. The whole assembly will come away. Then undo the two screws that hold on the circuit board and when that comes away you will see the small cog. You will be suprised how small it is. If you have your part then replace it and screw it all back together. When you replace the needle turn it in a clockwise direction and be sure to set the needle on zero.
Since it is OBD11 it requires a scanner to retrieve the codes. Most parts stores will read then for free.
you can use a car scanner to clear it out.
Your first place to look is to make sure all you do not have any blown fuses. Other than that it would depend on the component that soes not function.
If all fuses are good, then concentrate on the wires that deal with your problem.. wiring schematics aren't freely available for some stupid reason.
but some are availbe free online it depends on your car .
Some Hayes manual and bookstores and librarys have books that address this area. And have schematics and how tos. When u know what to get to and where. then you can start with removing your dashboard.. Again Having a Hayes manual for your car would be a good start. But always look for more information .. it'll come in handy when something on the pages looks diffrent from whats on your car and why..
check the fuse panel and the fuses
=A Gage is gun a 12 gage=
Probably a fuse, check to see if your horn works, really!
check fuses and fusible link, its connected to your positive battery cable.
1. Begin with the car turned off. Insert the key into the key slot. Do not turn the key yet. 2. With your left hand, press and hold the "Trip" button. Continue to hold it in until you have completed all steps of this procedure. 3. With your right hand, turn the key to the "On" position. (Do not turn it any farther. You'll start the car.) 4. Wait for approximately 10 seconds until the "Maintenance Required" light turns off. 5. Turn the key back to the "Lock" position. 6. Turn the key to the "On" position. 7. Release the "Trip" button.
Cars are getting too smart for their own good! The sensor is in the latch on many Fords. But before replacing it try this: Spray the latch with a light lubricant like wd-40, 50-50 etc. Open and close the door a few dozen times, spraying the latch every 5 times or so. This is more typical of a Ranger, but may help you.
Thanks for the ideas. I did indeed spray all four door latches with WD-40 and the problem appears to be fixed. Thanks a lot!
Your Welcome...if your still there!
I have been having this problem for at least a year with my 2001 mustang. It would usually go away but this time the lights would not shut out at all when I parked it. So i sprayed wd-40 into the door and I opened and shut the door, then sprayed some more. It worked perfect. Thank you.
This warning light comes on when sensors detect problems within the ABS braking system. You need to have it repaired ... could also be a loose wire dangling somewhere, too. Check it out soon ... if you have to make an emergency stop, your braking system may not respond in the manner you expect it to.
This can be used for either the back-up lights or the brake lights.
There are a couple of ways to track this down. Of course, make sure your fuse and bulbs are in good condition. Disconnect the wiring to the switch. Measure the feed wire and make sure you have 12 volts. Note: Make sure the key is turned to the RUN position so you have juice to the wire. If there is no voltage, trace the wire back to the fuse and find out why! If you have 12 volts, connect a jumper wire of the correct gauge to jumper the connector. If the lights come on, it looks like a bad switch.
Put the car in reverse and use an ohm meter to check the resistance in the switch. It should be minimal. If not, replace the switch.
If everything looks good back to the bulbs. Go to the next step.
Disconnect the two bulbs and, put the car in reverse to engage the lights. Note: Try not to do this with the car running. If you insist, have a buddy with a strong, steady foot and chock the tires. Someone needs to be in the back measuring the power!
Measure the voltage at the socket. It should be about 12 volts. If it isn't you need to trace the wires back to the switch. If you see 12 volts, install one of the bulbs and remeasure the voltage. It may be that when there is no load on the circuit, everything looks fine. When you put a load on the system and the voltage drops, you have have a bad connection somewhere. Check your ground connections on the lights and check the connector at the switch.
2001 Mazda 626:
On a 2001 Mazda 626 (and I suspect many other), there is a relay in the fuse box under the hood. It is labelled the TNS relay. If your horn or headlights still work, swap the relays between one of them and the TNS relay. If, after making the swap, your lights now work and your horn does not, you have found the culprit. Unfortunately, neither Advance Auto, Autozone, O'Reilly, or Carquest stocks this relay. Some can order it - $19 and change at Carquest.
I think it is a tribute to Paddy Hopkirk's 1964 win at Monte Carlo in his mini copper #37!
What is ROBLOX's password on roblox?
Asked By Wiki User
Does Jerry Seinfeld have Parkinson's disease?
Asked By Wiki User
If you are 13 years old when were you born?
Asked By Wiki User
What is a hink pink 50 percent giggle?
Asked By Wiki User
How do you replace the speedometer cable in a 91 Geo Storm?
Asked By Wiki User
How do you disconnect the ABS lamp on a 1997 Cavalier No trouble codes but lamp stays on?
Asked By Wiki User
How do you change the light bulb on the floor console of a 1999 Honda Accord?
Asked By Wiki User
How to Set oil change light for 3000 miles?
Asked By Wiki User
Copyright © 2020 Multiply Media, LLC. All Rights Reserved. The material on this site can not be reproduced, distributed, transmitted, cached or otherwise used, except with prior written permission of Multiply.