A trip switch is something that u have to flick so the electricity in the curcuit can start flowing

Possibly the alternator.

Shut off the car with the odometer showing the "Trip A".

Then, while holding down the reset button, turn the ignition to the "On" position. There will be 6-7 lines showing instead of the odometer numbers, and they will disappear one by one.

Keep holding button down. Then all "0's" will be displayed, and finally it will show the mileage.

Reset complete.

You are probably refering to warning lights for "low fuel" "ABS" "oil preasure" and "coolant temp", but for more specifics, they are listed in the owners manual under operation of the vehicle.

If the dash lights go on and off and the heat won't turn off and electrical noise is coming from the heater, there could be a short in the wiring on a 1998 Blazer. This is also possible if the ground wire for these items is not longer attached.

Using 5W-30 oil in summer, my Catera's low oil pressure warning and light will come on when the engine is hot. But with 10W-40 oil this condition will not occur. Oil pressure gauge may indicate low pressure, but not enough to trigger the warning or the light.

Remove the 2 trim plates on either side, then remove the 2 7mm screws...then pull the cover towards you and you can access the bulbs

I sent my original module to a company i found on google - www.myairbags.com They reset it for $55 and shipped back to me for free!

Could be bad bulbs (double filamented) or bad dimmer switch

If it's amanual tranny ,then check to see if wire is broken off of light switch towards front of transmission, or try replacing the tranny switch.I believe it screws into tranny and wire should have a plug on it somewhere .Ask parts supplier which switch it is on the tranny , but i believe it is the front one.

I am not familiar with your brand of vehicle, but can give a generic explanation of the basics. When an expert on your vehicle comes along, a more specific and detailed answer can be provided. The parking [or "emergency"] brake is engaged by a foot pedal on a lever, or by pulling by hand on a lever. Engaging the parking brake closes a switch which electrically energizes the circuit to the indicator light, turning it on. To my recollection, there are two probable causes for the circuit remaining energized after the parking brake is disengaged. 1. The switch is out of adjustment so that it does not open the circuit when the parking brake is disengaged. Proper readjustment should correct the problem. 2. The switch is properly adjusted but, the switch has failed, and remains "stuck" in the "on" position. If this is the cause, replacement of the switch will be necessary.

You should check your car manual to see if any fuse controls both of these and replace the fuse.

Since you had to ask the question, you probably don't know how to do this yourself so the best thing is to ask someone who does know or ask a mechanic.

but should it show temp aswell and if some one opens a door or what radio channel your on

There is a problem with the SRS (Supplemental Restraint System), air bags.

Two separate circuits with two separate fuses and two separate problems. Assuming the dome light bulb is good, the dome light has a switch which allows you to put it in three different modes, on all the time, on only when a door is open and off all the time. Be sure the switch is not in the "off all the time" mode.

Assuming the fuse for the horn is okay, the horn problem could be the switch contacts in the steering wheel are dirty, a faulty horn relay or a bad horn. It will take a little detective work to find the cause.

TC (short for Traction Control) is designed to prevent loss of traction of the driven road wheels, and therefore maintain the control of the vehicle when excessive throttle is applied by the driver and the condition of the road surface (due to varying factors) is unable to cope with the torque applied. You may have turned it off and it is showing you that its off or you may have a faulty TC.

Bad speedo cable, Try some light oild like WD40 and if the problems goes away than replace the cable

the dimmer rehostat is faulty..if you drive with the dash on full bright all the time anyway you can jump out the dimmer by jumping the two end wires on the dimmer plug

tire pressure

The intermittent digital odometer is a common problem in 1999 through 2003 Ford F-series pickups (F150, F250 and F350) and full-size SUVs (Expedition & Explorer) that have digital odometers. There have also been reports of similar symptoms in a few 2005 models.

The intermittent fading or blank odometer problem is generally caused by defective solder joints on a printed circuit board located on the back of the instrument cluster.

Ford dealers routinely replace the entire instrument cluster as the standard repair procedure. The problem with this is that unless the cluster is covered under warranty, the cost of repairs may be as much as $600.

Used clusters are less expensive, but they are prone to the same problem. Used clusters must be programmed to the vehicle mileage and the ignition keys will have to be programmed to the PATS system in the used cluster before the vehicle will start. The cost of programming these will likely be in the hundreds of dollars, making the used cluster a much less desirable option.

The most economical solution is to repair the problem yourself. The only cost is a couple hours of your time. There's good information about repairing the problem yourself on several Ford forums. Also, a complete website dedicated exclusively to Ford intermittent odometer problem can be found at www.odometer-repair.com .

7-10 pounds at idle when at operating temperature. When at 2,000 RPM it will be 30-45 pounds.