The entire dash electrical pod as an assembly may be loose . I would take it out and inspect it and the contacts where it plugs in.

Not being a repair shop will make it very hard to purchase them. You can get remanfactured ones from the dealer.

Low engine coolant--when you step on the gas water pump runs faster and is calling for more coolant--check level

On a 2004 G35 sedan, the low pressure indicator light looks like in the following picture

http://www.bartecusa.com/images/300/tpms_replacement_1.jpg

Check the plastic "Molex" connector at the firewall. Disconnect and reconnect. Same thing happened on my 1894 Maxima; could drive the car but the tachometer and other gauges stopped working.

The bulb is probably burned out. Try replacing the bulb for starters.

A small yellow symbol lit up on my dashboard, is it the transmission light?

If none of the dash lights are working, then it won't be the cluster. You are going to have a problem with one of the fuses, a switch, or wiring. Does it have running/tail lights? If it is just one bulb, then,

The question you ask is too involved for a proper answer. You need to go to a car parts store, and get a repair manual for your car. They cost about $16.00 Or, go to a Public Library.

I've been told by a dealer that the lights just wiggle loose and only need about a half to quarter turn to start working again. Conveniently, they quoted me $150-200 to fix them. I may try pulling the unit and seeing what I can do myself because it looks like trash, but it isn't worth $200.

Like the other answer, sometimes they wiggle loose or burn out. They are very easy to replace, but the bulbs are costly, about $18.00 each. I bought used instrument panel from junk yard, $75.00 and took bulbs from there (has about 14 bulbs in it and used more than 4 bulbs from it which equalled the cost of the panel). Take out instrument panel and replace them where they are burned out. EASY.

Hello, If I'm not mistaken, there speedometers on 1994 Toyota pickups rely on a mechanical cable connected to the speedometer on one end and the transmission on the other. A plastic gear in the transmission spins the cable. The cable can fray causing it to fail and the gear inside the transmission can also lose a tooth or two with time and wear. Good luck!

Hello on my 1994 Toyota I do have a sensor on the the transmission which supplies an input to the odometer and speedometer. In my case my odometer is indicating the mileage but not my vehicles speed. I am now checking the foil circuit board as the speedometer does not look accessible.

The 1994 is electronic the with a speed sensor on the transmission that sends pulses to the speedometer. If the Odometer is working then the sensor on the transmission is more than likely functioning correctly. These trucks are pretty notorious for this issue and usually it can be fixed by pulling the cluster apart, replacing the capacitors, fixing the circuit board if there has been any shorts and giving it a good cleaning. There are companies you can send the cluster off to and they will repair the circuit, test and send back to you.

On the backside of your steering wheel there are two screws you need to remove. These are covered over with circular covers which you can easily remove. Having removed the 2 screws you can gently remove the whole unit which contains the air bag. You will see the control switches for your cruise control and your light bulbs for your cruise control (octagon like head - may be blue in color). You can turn this counter clockwise and lift off. The cruise controls may also be released from their switches by gently pulling apart (should you have need to replace them) . Some people remove these when the rubber touch pads get old however they are needed to keep your horn grounded. It is basically removing only two buttons in the back of your steering wheel and the rest is a breeze. Hope this has been helpful. Eddie Rodz (Puerto Rico) On the backside of your steering wheel there are two screws you need to remove. These are covered over with circular covers which you can easily remove. Having removed the 2 screws you can gently remove the whole unit which contains the air bag. You will see the control switches for your cruise control and your light bulbs for your cruise control (octagon like head - may be blue in color). You can turn this counter clockwise and lift off. The cruise controls may also be released from their switches by gently pulling apart (should you have need to replace them) . Some people remove these when the rubber touch pads get old however they are needed to keep your horn grounded. It is basically removing only two buttons in the back of your steering wheel and the rest is a breeze. Hope this has been helpful. Eddie Rodz (Puerto Rico)

No. There is a problem

Sounds like the one that says the air pressure across your 4 tires is unbalanced.

One or more tires has a pressure significantly different thatn the others.

to the solnoide find the distributer follow the center wire to from there to the solnoide one is a positive and one is a negative wire that is where you attach to the two nuts on either side if it

Caution or warning

This is a start but beyond this get your wallet out. The ABS and Traction Control are an integrated unit, ie: either could be at fault. First place to look is the wheel sensors, take one wheel off at a time and in behind on the back side of the hub assembly you will see an electrical connector with two wires going into it. Unsnap the connector and measure the resistance across the (wheel side) of the plug with your digital meter - set meter to ohms - mine were about 1.110 to 1.052 on the 2K ohms scale. What the actual reading should be I dont know but you can get a good idea if one is bad by comparing the measurements from all four wheels. Obviously a reading on one well above or below the others is a good indication of a bad sensor. The other check to do on each sensor is to check that the sensor is outputting. Connect your leads across the (wheel side) of the plug again and set your meter to AC volts on the lowest scale. Now put your wheel back on with a couple of nuts hand tight and spin the wheel while watching the meter. Mine showed about 0.40 volts turning as fast as I could - the voltage will vary the faster you turn. If you have no AC volts on one then take the brake caliper off and the rotor and inspect / clean the sensor and pulse mechanism from the inside & try again. Next - *switch on your ignition* & connect your meter across the (CAR SIDE) of the plug and switch to DC volts on say the 20 volt range - the reading on mine was about 4.7 volts and varied about 0.2 between all readings. (DO NOT SHORT OUT THESE BY ACCIDENT - GO SLOW USE EXTREME CARE) Again I do not know the actual spec but a reading on one greatly different from the others is a good indicator that something is wrong with the ABS module itself or the wiring leading back to it. Follow each line and check all plugs found. On the rear wheels the right and left sensors converge into a four wire plug fastned to a cross member about mid point. You can actually do all your checks here for the rear wheels without taking the wheels off if you want. The front is impossible to follow any distance.

Note that the plugs Cadilac uses for this system is absolutely pathetic considering the extreme harshness of the environment being right at the wheels and inches from the ground. Stones sticks or ice could rip them right off the car and they are watertight plugs not waterproof. WHAT A CRUEL JOKE! GM Engineers are morons. Instal an expensive safety system to insure it will never work when you need it most - wet & snowing. In any case this is as far as I got, all my readings were similar and therefore my problem is (not likely) to be a sensor. I'll add to this as I (learn more) & work back toward the actual system.

It's a GM product (I'm assuming) and it means that your coolant level is low. Although if it is full, it's probably a bad sensor (Rather common with Gm on that sensor). If you call GM, they'll tell you to gently hit the sensor and it should turn off if reservoir is full.

the most common problem is the dimmer wheel being knocked and turned down by the drivers knee on entering the vehicle, look below the headlight switch and there should be a rotating wheel that will dim or brighten the dash lights, try this first before anything else. robb

I'm not too sure about the 1994 Honda accord because i don't have one myself. However, in most cars the speedometer sensor is located on the transmission, close to the point of engagement between the transmission and the front axle. The speedometer is attached tho the transmission with bolt(s) depending on the car.

turn the key to "on", just shy of engaging the starter. push the gas pedal to the floor fully 3 times. If this doesn't cause light to flash and reset turn off key and try again except push gas pedal 4 times. AP Anc AK

If that doesn't work;

With the key off, push and hold in the odometer button, depress the break pedal 10 times then release the odometer button.

Problem solved....

It means the sport mode for the automatic gearbox is turned on. This changes the way the 'box changes gear - upshifts are at much higher revs, downshifts are quicker.