Dodge Intrepid

first get the correct replacement filter. Have this on hand before you remove the dirty one. The fuel filter is located between the gas tank and the rear suspension. This will be in the fuel line of course, therefore, when one removes this gasoline will come out. Mine takes a 16mm and a 20mm wrench for the "out" side. The in-side will have a clip type. Getting the "nut" side is easy, the clip side you will just have to work with it. Mine has a green clip and I use a small screw driver to pop open the snap then tilt the filter toward the opening somewhat to extract. Do not use excessive force!! Just enough to free it. Putting it back on is just the opposite. Hope tis helps.

---okay so the green retainer clip has a back collar on it that will pop out if you push in and down on the clip (in 2 places) toward the back collar of the clip AFTER you unclip it. that should help to get that son of a bitch outta there:)

find a stretch of federal free way and drive at speedometer reading of 60 miles per hour for 10 miles . have a passenger with a stop watch measure time between mile markers. record the time you get on the stop watch, a watch reading of less time of 60 seconds will tell you that you are going faster than the speedometer is reading if it is 57 seconds (five over) or if it takes more than 60 seconds per marker it is reading (5 under).
60 divided by the seconds of a stop watch times 60 will tell you miles per hour.
60/ 57(stop watch reading from marker to marker) x60 equals 63.15 miles per hour.

Same engine

yup i have a set off a 2000 on my 97 they fit perfect

/ Follow the top radiator hose down to the water outlet on the engine; the thermostat is in there. Follow the top radiator hose down to the water outlet on the engine; the thermostat is in there.

It's an interference engine. Once timing is gone, expect failures in upper parts.

Turn the key in the drivers side door lock to the locked and then unlocked position. This should clear the alarm and reset it.

5w30 or 10w30

It is part of the pump module in the tank.

if spedo dont work ether its a speed sensor

The bushings that go bad are the ones that hold the inner tie rod ends onto the rack. They are difficult to change. Chrysler has a kit to install that includes the bushings, spacers and bolts along with lock tabs that you fold over. you must remove the air box and air tube from the throttle bodies for better access on the V6 applications. You also need to jack the car up in front for access through the fender wells where the tie rods go through from the rack to the steering knuckles. Turning the steering wheel to move the rack position is necessary as you do one side at a time. This is not a job for someone inexperienced! You will need to have an alignment done afterward. Pay attention to the bolt torque spec as listed in the instructions, and make sure that the thrust washer/spacers are correctly installed between the inner tie rod and the rack! 8/3/2009 - The answer previously given was not for the steering rack bushings, but instead for the inner tie rod end bushings. If that's what you really meant, then this answer is good. If you were actually asking about the steering rack bushings, there are 4 of them. The two on the passenger side of the car are much easier to replace than the two on the drivers side. They are pressed into a plate that then sandwiches the end of the steering gear with a piece of rubber between them. BE VERY CAREFUL when you take those out that you don't pry up on the steering gear. This can cause the unit to crack and require replacement. Instead, loosen the two bolts on the driver's side to allow the steering gear to move more freely and the plate should come out without much effort. If you don't have the equipment, a local repair shop should be able to press new bushings in for a minimal fee (if not free.) The other two bushings require that the entire unit be pulled to have new bushings pressed in. With the price of the bushings not being too much less than a remanufactured steering gear with new bushings already installed, I opted to just replace the whole thing. There are also some other bushings that you should check out while you're working on the car, such as the engine cradle bushings. Three out of four of mine were completely disintegrated and the car made horrible rattling sounds. There's the infamous inner tie rod bushings mentioned above. With some patience, they're not a terrible job but certainly not a pleasant one. You'll get pretty good at it after a while, as they tend to go bad every 2-3 years. Why they were so interested in poor quality bushings is beyond me, unless it was one of those "planned obsolescense" things.

A Dodge Intrepid does not have a reset switch. The fuel system is computer controlled.

It is called a 42LE.

It is called a 42LE.

Pop the hood, right hand side, under the exhaust manifold / heat shield. Almost directly underneath your 1st O2 sensor.

Mopar ATF+4

the sparkplag wires lead from the sparkplugs to the distributor.

there is a little rubber knob thing that spins its under the hood behind the light ,turn in pushes the lights down.

Take it to a professional. This is not a DIY job. Serious engine damage will occur if done incorrectly. What model Suzuki needs the timing belt changed? I used to have a number of mid-late 80s Samurai's and it was time consuming but not too difficult to do if you are comfortable wrenching a bit. The Suzuki Sidekicks and Geo Trackers used basically the same 1300/1600 cc engine, and the following would probasbly hold for them as well. Haynes manuals step you through the process pretty good. It's been a while but I'll sketch it out from memory off the top of my head to give you an idea of the complexity. If the following makes your head spin then don't attempt it. But if you are handy with a wrench, and can read and follow instructions in the Haynes manual, it is well within the 'moderate backyard mechanic' type work. Do you change your own brake pads, oil, radiator hoses? Have some metric sockets and wrenches? If so you should be well capable of changing the timing belt, it just takes a while longer than those other procedures. My guess is maybe 4-6 hours work the 1st time you do it. When putting on a new timing belt I would also flush and refill the radiator coolant, and if the radiator hoses are more than 2 years old probably buy new ones and replace them too. And a new fan belt too. You are going to have all this apart, now is the time to do preventative maintenance so save effort later. My experience is with '86 - '88 Suzuki Samurai's: A much maligned and capable off roader. My son and I each had one...I put 250,000 miles on mine before I got rid of it, and a lot of that was with severe desert and snow off-roading, my son had 180,000 on his. During the course of time we had them we did numerous engine rebuilds and drivetrain swaps. When I first had mine I was just an "oil & coolant" change type guy. Now I'll tackle just about anything that can be done until you need services of a machine shop. I can't think of any vehicle that is actually easier to work on than a Samurai, other than maybe an original air cooled VW Bug. The parts are light. Access is easier than on modern sedans, especially if you take the time to pull the radiator and grill first. Not scared off yet?: This should be done with engine stone cold, and you are going to be working under the car for a bit of the work...I always found a large piece of cardboard underneath really helped me slide around, and made it easier to find any screws or bolts you might drop. And a decent set of metric wrenches and sockets are in order. I think on this job you will be using mostly 10mm, with maybe a few 12mm and a 14mm at one point. Phillips and flat screwdrivers for the engine splash guard underneath and the radiator hoses. High level overview of the way I would do it. (Note: not all steps are absolutely necessary, but I have found overall taking this route is easier.) > Drain & remove Radiator > Remove Front Grill (makes it much easier to access the front of the engine) > Remove fan assembly and fan belt > Remove crankcase pulley > Remove plastic cover off front of engine > This exposes the timing belt > Align engine at 'top dead center' of cylinder #1 before removing old belt. > Look closely at alignment marks on both gears > Put on new belt and then follow Haynes instructions for more details on setting it up right. ... From here I had started to go into details about the rest, but by now you have an idea of the job and if you want to tackle it. I don't want to put all the details I remember here, because I don't want someone to try to do the job with only these comments and without getting a manual. If you think you want to try this and want to correspond by email first for more details, drop me a line at prhkgh@comcast.net Suzuki's are fun, I really miss mine. But it was getting harder and harder to smog it as the carburators were junk, ran rich, and would screw up the catalytic converters. After 250,000 miles I finally got tired of it...especially since I changed jobs and no longer had time for week long desert camping trips. Good Luck!

There is not one on the right side. One is inside the left part of the dash, accessed by pulling off the small panel only visible when the driver's door is open, and the other is located under the hood, located on the left side of the vehicle and clearly labeled "fuse and relay center".

dows any one know what it means when the code says battery power to mod disconnected ?

In a Dodge intrepid 2002 with a 2.7 enigne

about $150.00

Tach and speedometer go on and off. Also sometimes during driving the security light on dash stays on constantly. Also it eventually starts and dies until it won't turn over anymore

If you are in the 80-100K mile range then you are in the prime area for an engine seizing. While a great car these 2.7L engine have a problem with sludge buildup that leads to the engine not getting oil where it should and that is the end of that.

Raise van, take off wheel you must use jackstands or support your van securly its going to rock alot Take off the four bolts located on the back side of the bearing then take out the small bolt from the speed sensor also located in behind the bearing remove the speed sensor. you will need a large mechanics hammer or heavy blunt object. beat the bearing from the back side dont worry about the cog attached you new bearing has one. dont listen to your hanyes or chiltons manuals. the bearing doesnt just come out its been there for years. it took me several hours and gallons of sweat to get mine out at 300 km the new ones are in and my van is now silent it was not an easy job but i saved $1600 according to my local dodge

take the gas cap off the gas tank and have someone listen for it to turn on as you turn the key onto start.