Dodge Ram

Yes it would. As well as white smoke,

Oil/coolant consumption,

And think "milkshake" like oil when you drain it.

If the abs light is on, then you might have a rear axle speed sensor issue. If not, then you have a cluster problem.

4.7L 6 quarts 5w30 5.7L 7 quarts 5w30 Diesel 12 quarts 15w40

It is on the back of the engine, behind the air cleaner.

R134a Refrigerant. starting from 1994 models till now, all vehicles equipped with A/C uses this. Prior to this it was R12.

under the dash far left - driver's side

It's on the accumulator mounted on the firewall, passenger side.

You can hot wire the fuel pump, or remove the tank and siphon it out of the pump mounting hole.

You can hot wire the fuel pump, or remove the tank and siphon it out of the pump mounting hole.

The "bus" is the communication system between computers on the vehicle. "No Bus" means that the system has stopped functioning. A scan tool, DVOM, and wiring diagrams are required to diagnose

The "bus" is the communication system between computers on the vehicle. "No Bus" means that the system has stopped functioning. A scan tool, DVOM, and wiring diagrams are required to diagnose

On a Dodge truck, the vacuum switch is on the transfer case.

On a Dodge truck, the vacuum switch is on the transfer case.

If you mean by speed and wether or not it is a production car, then it is the bugatti veyron super sport, it has a 16 cylinder engine with 4 turbo chargers. It produces 1001 bhp and an air brake witch is very powerful

Trouble code P1693 means: A companion DTC was set in both the ECM and PCM

a soft pedal could be the result of worn down linings, like the rear brakes needing adjustment, leaking hydraulic cylinders....

not sure what kind of axle you have and where its leaking. are you sure its not the brake fluid leaking which is above the axle seal to make sure that's not the problem which is easier to fix. as for the axle seal on the chevys the axle would have to be pulled out which means pull the rear cover off and taking the lock pin out pushing the pin out and then remove the axle ring then you can pull the alxe out. that for a solid axle. if you have an independent then you would have cv axles in which case they have wheel bearings and then it would be the brakes leaking. wish you had more info.

The MAF ( Mass Air flow) sensor is located right on the intake pipe. Can't miss it.

it doesn't?

I went to You Tube and found a video showing how to...I'm a 51 year old mom and did it in less that 15 minutes.

Try the edelbrock web site. You can get help from their toll free number. Try Autozone/Repair Info/Vehicle Repair Guide/Repair Guide Year/Repair Guide Make/Repair Guide Model/GM Full Size Trucks 180-1987/Gasoline Engine Emmission Controls

The simplest way to tell you how to do this is to go get yourself a chilton book. The process isn't too long, but a bit tedious and 3-6 hours of fun...

first off, disconnect your battery for at least 30 min before touching any plugs or harnesses. next, bleed your A/C and disconnect the quick connects that go inside the firewall. drain your coolant, and disconnect hoses from firewall. note a certain bolt with nut on it that is going to the inside of the firewall, you'll need to take that off when you get to the airbox inside the truck which houses your heater core. next, take off the pillar handles next to the windshield, then pop off the plastic dash panel with defroster vents. there are a few bolts up there that need to be taken out all the way across. next, take off your glove box. remove plastic below the drink carrier. there are 2 bolts there on left and right once you remove the plastic. there's a yellow or red AirBag plug which you may or may not need to disconnect later. next, drop down the whole steering wheel column. 4 bolts I believe. look up under there on both sides, you will see a 2inch piece of tubing that goes from each side of the truck. your dash and everything you see in front of you is connected to that tube. find on each side of the truck where that tube is mounted to the body with brackets. There are 2-3 bolts on each side I think. When you get those out, and the steering wheel is sitting in the seat or on the floor, the whole dash and panel should tilt and lay on the seats. there are wires from your a/c controls and radio which you'll have to disconnect and some various other wires as well. I also think you'll have to disconnect a harness plug with bolt in it on the drivers side. (white) after you've done all that and don't have the dash and panel in a bind with wire hangups you can now get to the air box. I don't remember how many bolts, but don't forget the one in the engine bay going to it also. get the box unbolted, then roll it up, remove 2 clips holding the heater core in, replace heater core and do this whole process backwards. Hopefully you didn't lose any screws or bolts. charge your a/c, replace coolant, make sure all plugs are connected before connecting power. Should save you $400-$500 in labor.

10 pounds

Bad window regulator. The cables are not pulling evenly and it tilts the window.

I assume the handle is broken off and you can not get on it with a pair of needlenose pliers. You have to remove your oil pan, then you can push it up.

The first thing that you need to check is make sure that the blower will work on all speeds and after that check and make sure that nothing has gotten sucked up into the recirculation vent.

Remove the blower fan from under the right side of the dash and check for a broken recirculation door.

Cannot tighten, Replacement is the only fix for loose transfer case chain.

Yes it will. Not a huge difference, but if you put a nice dual exhaust system behind them, including a balance pipe, you will increase your horsepower and your mileage. You might expect to see 1-2 mpg.