Flats and Tire Pressure

they are both in a bad mode

A pullstring on a lawnmower is pretty easy to fix. Most models have a few bolts around the cover of the pullstart. Some models will have a plastic cover on or around the pullstart cover, it will need to be removed first. Some models will also have a bolt holding the oil and/or gas spout onto the side of one of the covers. Once you have the pullstart cover off [DO NOT TAKE THE SPRING UNIT INSIDE THE COVER APART.] you will need to remove the broken piece of rope. There is usually a knot at the end of the rope. If the knotted piece of rope left is about three inches or less, you will be able to remove it using a pair of needle nose pliers. Just grab the knot and give it a good pull. If the break is longer than three inches you may need to buy a replacement pullcord. They are about 5-10 dollars at most hardware stores.

Now to put it back together, you will need to re-wind the spring first. Before you do though, it helps to have a second set of hands ready to help you. Wind the spool up until it is firm but its important not to force it or te spring may break. If the spool stops spinning it is too tight.Youwill need to let a little tension off the spring.after winding the spring. you will need to have your helper hold the wound up spring while you re-thread the rope through the cover and then through the spool. You will need to have the two holes lined up to push the rope through far enough. then make a knot in the rope end and slowly let the rope re-spool itself. If the spring is wound enough the whole rope should pullinto the spool right up to the pull-handle. Then just put the covers back on and you are ready to go.

Yes indeed, they can and DO! A tire failure like that is VERY hazardous.

When a tire fails due to overpressure, it's very spectacular and pieces will go everywhere, much like shrapnel.

A quarter mile distant is about the minimum I'd want to be from ANYTHING like that.

I was once on the highway, passing a big rig, when one of it's tires exploded. It sounded just like an explosion. A strap of rubber eight inches wide, a foot and a half long, and probably three-fourths of an inch thick (I had to look quick) hit my passenger-side roof strut, leaving a one-inch deep dent.

The moral of the story is: When passing, PASS QUICKLY!

spread footer are utilized to distribute the weight over a larger area so the soil beneath can hold up the structure without is settling

Yes, the air can leak out of the crack.

I haven't seen one yet that you could replace just the battery. Good idea, now we need someone to make them like that for a reasonable price.

35psi

tyler

This is one of the first things you learn in Chemistry class. PV=nRT where n and R are constants and pressure is dependent on temperature and volume. The pressure on the walls of the tire is a reflection of how energetic the molecules of air are.

dealer only you can enter the resset mode but you need the sensor to go at each wheel to finish reset

If you look at the sidewall of your tires, you will see a range of pressure to inflate your tire to. Something like 32 to 38 lbs. I keep my tires inflated to the MAXIMUM value and sometimes 2 to 4 pounds more so that I have less rolling resistance, and a tad bit better gas milage.

If I was driving my car in the Summer time when temps reach 100 degrees or better, then I would lower my tire pressure to the lowest suggested value on the sidewall.

Always try to measure tire pressure when the car has sat overnight, or for a few hours.

I have been driving for 50 years, and by far the most trouble I have had with tires is when they are UNDERINFLATED. How much under inflated does it take to destroy a

tire? That depends on the road temp, type of tire, and how the manufacturer put it

all together. Usually 20 lbs under ideal is enough to damage the tire if it is driven long

enough.

Under inflated tires flex as they roll down the highway, and this flexing causes heat and shear forces to build up within the rubber, which in turn will cause the rubber to separate from the cord that is used to give the tire shape, support, and strength. In extreme cases the tire will literally tear itself to pieces, usually all at once.

32psi

Recommended pressure is found on the tire placard in the driver side doorway. Mine says 26 psi, front and rear. I have 2dr, 4wd, convertable

no the system will not know cause the tires with the tprs need to have a connection with the car. the tires normally have the connection with the wheel base

$20

Kinda-sorta.

The tire pressure will influence the actual diameter of the tire, and for a given engine rpm/gear, a bigger wheel will give greater speed, and a smaller wheel will give lesser speed.

A wheel with higher pressure will also roll easier than a less inflated Wheel. This means there will be a tiny bit of power available to make the car go faster if the tire pressure is higher.

In reality, this is all fairly unimportant outside a race course. Excess pressure will caue the tire to wear faster, and unevenly. The ride will be bouncier and handling poorer. And unless your engine is powerful enough, you won't get any use of the bigger diameter either. It'll just rev a little lower, giving you the same, or less top speed.

Epoxy

There should be a sticker inside the driver door that tells the OE size. What will work is LT245/75/16, LT265/75/16, or if it has the 16 X 7 wheels....LT235/85/16 all sizes in no less than 10ply! Some tire sizes have their advantages. What are you using the truck for? Some tires or tread designs are only made in specific sizes.

6/32 inch. it is a measurement of tread depth.

The DRL module is ON by default. Unless someone modified your van, it should be ON.

The sensor for telling if it is day or night is in the top center of the dash.

Take Care,

Greg

There are a number of different types of "car jack" in use. One is hydraulic. They come in the shape of a bottle, or are built into a trolly (the "floor jack") or the like. By operating the handle, which is a lever (a simple machine), fluid is compressed and routed to an actuating cylinder. This results in lift. (More on the principles involved can be found in other questions on this forum dealing with hydraulics.) In a friction jack, the handle (that lever) lifts the load by simple mechanical amplification. The handle provides mechanical advantage. A lot of handle movement on a lever with the fulcrum right up against the load side of that lever will translate into lots of amplification. True, the load only moves a little bit, but that's the trade off; that's the way a lever works. We exchange the extended application of force on the handle to concentrate that force on the load and move it only a little bit. When we release the pressure on the handle, a "wedge" jams the load on the lift shaft so it can't go down. We can then reset our handle and apply another increment of force. Short or long strokes of the handle can be used. The original Volkswagons came with this kind of jack. Another type of jack similar to the friction jack is a ratcheting jack. It uses "steps" in the jack shaft and a little spring-loaded arm, lever or cam (a pawl) which swings into place to prevent the lift body from sliding back down the lift shaft after each lift increment. This jack "clicks" at each full stroke of the handle. A complete stroke must be made to lift the load to the next "step" on the jack shaft. This is a feature that makes this jack different from the friction jack. The handle-as-a-lever idea remains the same. In the scissors jack, a long screw (which is an inclined plane - another simple machine) is turned with a handle. On one end of the screw is a collar that fixes the screw in place but permits it to turn within it. On the other end is a nut, a threaded receiver for the operating screw. Turn the handle in the correct direction and the screw threads itself into the nut. This pulls the middle of an articulated frame together and forces the ends of the frame apart. On the ends is a base, wich is put on the ground, and a "pad" for use on a "hardpoint" on the underbody of the vehicle being lifted. There are a couple of other types of jacks (like an air jack that uses compressed air to inflate a bladder and lift a load) and also variations on the theme out there, but they are uncommon. Additionally, an electric motor, compressed air or hydraulics (or a combination of these) can be used to drive a friction or screw jack. We can use compressed air to drive a hydraulic jack so all we have to do is squeeze a little lever to admit compressed air to the primary side of the hydraulic system. This would be called an air over hydraulic jack. A look at any large automotive parts and accessory supplier's catalog (there are a number of them posted on the web) will allow an investigator to actually see the different types of jacks, though the operating mechanisms probably won't be visible. Hopefully this explanation and the pictures will permit said investigator to noodle out the way the jack works. Think it through and it should be something that can be understood without a lot of difficulty. Certainly a peek at the jack in your current car (or the family car) may be in order here.

In general an air compressor is made up of three parts. They are the air pump, the motor and the tank that holds the compressed air.

Most likely at the Goodyear plant nearest to where you saw them on sale. There are at least 15 Goodyear tire plants in north America. You haven't given your location.

Make sure your tires are in good condition, tread wear is within limits and no dry rot.

Check for proper inflation.

Avoid potholes and loose items in road.

Stick to well maintained roads.

Purchase tires that give excellent puncture resistance.

Inspect your tires for foreign objects regularly.

Maintain sensible speeds, posted speed limits are usually correct for conditions.

Listen to your tires, a repeated ticking noise could mean there is a nail or screw trying to work its way into your tire.

Have all tire damage repaired by a professional.