Ford Contour

V-6: PCV valve is located below and behind the throttle body, just to the firewall side. It will have two or three hoses plugged into a fitting on the valve. It is easily cleaned and/or replaced.

you have to first unplug the big harness from the stock amp behind the glovebox,buy a required harness to connect to harness that you unplug from amp,you also have to run your new speaker wires from harness you buy because wires are too short.the other harness you can see behind radio--those are hot leads and ground and power antenna,also requires a separate harness kit.your good to go.

four

To replace a light bulb in your dash (like a blinker or speedometer):

1) Remove the 3-5 screws located above the the gagues. They are usally upside down. Then remove the plastic "shell" that surrounds the gagues 2) Now you should see 4 screws holding the gagues cluster in place. Remove those screws and begain to pull the cluster out. 3) There will be 2 or 3 electrical connectors hooked to the back of the cluster, remove them by pressing the tab at the top of them while you pull back. 4)You may have to work a bit to get the cluster out after you've disconnected it. Try lowering your tilt wheel if you have one, also you may have to remove the top shell that sorounds the steering coloum. 5) Once out and turned over, there will be a group of lights for each trouble light (oil, engine, seat belt), once you've found the one your looking for just twist about 1/4 turn to the left, and it should come out.

You have to remove the black bezel that has the panel vents and surrounds the instrjment cluster first. Gently pop off the rear defrost and adjacent "button". Those "buttons" then are to be pulled out to extend the wire harness and then disconnect any wire harness connected to them. There is one mounting screw behind those buttons that needs to be removed. Then gently pry off the passive alarm in the center (it has the flashing LED and a clock or a "contour" nameplate). It just pops off and back on later. Once it is off you have to disconnect the electrical connector and reattach it later. There are two screws to be removed behind that piece. There are also two hidden screws that are angled into the top of the bezel above the instrument cluster. Total of 5 screws to remove the bezel. Once the bezel is removed you can remove the 5 screws that hold the insturmentation cluster in place. Then you can gently pull out the insturmentation cluster. Most of the lights in the instrumentation cluster are twist and turn assemblies where the bulbs are attached to a plastic holder. You have to replace the entire holder and bulb. These are not common parts in auto stores and might need to be ordered ahead of time. I had a "check engine" assembly with a bad metal contact so I had to replace it to pass state inspection. Good luck

The current manuals neither give a schematic or give the exact location of the fuse panel, but I think the owners manual that comes with the car will. Jcpsme

There are two Torx adjusting screws, accessed through holes in the top of the black plastic housing...T23 I think. The center one adjusts up and down, the outside one adjusts left-right.

I believe it is in the right front passenger footwell by or behind the right front kick panel

i just recently did this repair. You have to line the camshafts up with a straight edge then line the crank up with the notch on the harmonic balancer. Then put the belt on but put the belt on the cam gears last. Make sure you have the tensioner to the most retracted position. If any more questions contact me via e-mail. wildsurf32@yahoo.com.

it is in side the pan you have to remove it to get to the filter and yes it is a back bracker

a worn valve will make it back fire

They are available online. Do a google search for "Contour wiring diagram".

power steering..

it is the same as any other car 3000 miles or every three months which ever comes first

That means the timing is off and you should take it to your local ford dealership to have it done.

Even the best service manuals arent as good as the owners manual. See "Related Questions" below for more

Or Use A 12 Volt Test Light And Check All The Fuses In The Box Until You Find The One That Does Not Light Up Your Test Light. While The Fuse Is In The Fuse Block, One Spade Of The Fuse Contacts The 12 Volt Power Side From The Battery, While The Other Spade Of Your Fuse Completes The Circuit Going To The Part Or Bulb Or The Dash Lights. If You Test One Side Of The Fuse And It Lights, Test The Other Side, it Should Light. If It Does Not Light On One Side That Means Your Fuse Is Blown. Lighting On One Side means You have Power To The Fuse, But To Complete The Circuit The Fuse Has To Pass The Power On To The Wire It Is Connected To. So If Both Terminals Do Not Light "BLOWN FUSE".

On all cars it is located on the throttle plate. That is where the air intake and throttle linkage are located.

All u have to do is get the VIN or a key number and take that to a Ford dealer.

It is a 5/8

yes

in the engien

Follow the main hose that goes from radiator to engine block. It is on engine block between the main hose connected to engine block and a pullye. The heat gauge wire is snapped on the sensor. Remove the wire and replace the sensor.

check the brake pedal, there is a switch on the back of the pedal that depressed when the brake is depressed that turns the lights on, when this is loose it keeps the lights on.

According to the 1997 Ford Contour Owner Guide ( 5W-30 )

The fuel pump is mounted inside the fuel tank. You can get to it from inside the car. You will need a 3/8" socket set (to remove the rear seat cushion), a brass drift punch, a hammer, and miscellaneous other common hand tools. Also, you might want to buy a special Fuel Pressure Test Gauge that will have a built-in pressure relief button.

1. Look in the seam between the seat cushions to find the bolts holding the seat to the car. Unbolt the bottom seat cushion , then pull the cushion out of the way to reveal the fuel pump.

2. Open the hood and disconnect the negative battery terminal. NOTE: THIS IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT TO PREVENT SPARKS THAT COULD CAUSE A FIRE.

3. Locate the fuel injection rail on the top of the engine. Remove the cap from the Schrader valve on the injection rail, wrap a rag or paper towels around the valve, and use a small screwdriver (or similar) to push the center pin to release pressure in the system. Reinstall the cap on the Schrader valve. Dispose of the fuel-wet rag or towels outside and allow them to dry in an open area. (NOTE: A better way to do this is to use the Fuel Pressure Gauge tool mentioned above.)

4. Back inside the car, take off the plastic cap around the fuel pump using your hands. Unplug the electrical connections to the fuel pump. Push in the tabs on the fuel lines and pull them off of the fuel pump.

5. Using a BRASS drift (NOT a steel drift or punch - no sparks!) on the ring that locks the fuel pump to the gas tank, tap the end of the drift with a hammer until the ring pops off of the fuel pump. Lift the fuel pump up and out of the gas tank and allow it to drip dry before you pull it out of the car.

6. I strongly recommend you replace the fuel pump strainer screen at the same time you replace the pump. Also, check the inside of the fuel tank for accumulated debris that you might want to clean out before you put your new pump in place. Put the new pump back into the tank the same way the old one came out. Make sure the fuel level float moves freely. Using the brass drift again, put the lock ring back in place making sure it is fully locked. Use a new gasket on the lock ring if necessary (I recommend it.)

7. Reconnect the fuel lines and electrical connections to the pump, and COMPLETELY wipe up any spilled fuel.

8. Reconnect the negative terminal of the battery.

9. WITHOUT STARTING THE ENGINE, turn the ignition key on for 10 seconds, then turn it off. Check the pump connections for any leaks. Repeat this procedure one more time.

10. If no leaks are found, the engine should now start and run. If it does, reinstall the rear seat cushion, and you're done!

It should go without saying that you should not smoke or use any sort of open flame near the car while doing this job. Do it in a well-ventilated area. If you're in a garage, keep the door open. I recommend you have a fan blowing so you'll have air movement clearing gasoline vapors away. Also, it would be a good idea to have a fire extinguisher handy, and a buddy standing by - just in case!