Ford Contour

The problem may lie with a clogged fuel injector or a spark plug that isn't sparking.

The old standard "Slim Jim" won't work on that vehicle.

Get very thin eyebrow twizers, and pull the broken lock! Listo..

There is not an EGR valve on a Ford 2.0 DOHC engine. It was taken out when Ford engineers figured out they could retard the exhaust timing through the camshaft. They call it Variable Camshaft Timing. I just finished reading about it on a tech tip web site. The web address is: www.asashop.org/autoinc/july2002/techtips.cfm

On my 1998 and also 1996 they are located on the front of the engine at the transmission mounting, but on the engine side. If you look between the exhaust and the bellhousing flange on the engine you can see it. It has one plug in and one bolt holding the sensor on and is a little tough to get at the bolt. Also, if you are not sure what I like to do is get on eBay and look for a picture of one. It seems to really help.

Above applies to 4 cylinder engine I think. On the Duratec 6 cylinder, the crankshaft sensor is located on the timing cover, passenger side of vehicle, front corner, fairly low, close to the A/C compressOn a 4-cyl, ir pulley.

On a 1998 4-cyl, it's on the lower left (driversside) front engine. The brass bolt is a strar T30 bit. The actural sensor will pull out of the housing to give you more room. It's a tough area to get into. I took off my exhaust maniford after dropping the cat converter, to get more room since I was doing something else there anyways. These bolts came off easily even after all these years.

5 w 30 ( according to autozone.com )

13 ft/lbs - 16 ft/lbs

roughly 60, 000 to 120,000 miles

maybe in the steering column

The 2.0 liter 4 cylinder has a timing BELT and the 2.5 liter V6 has a timing CHAIN

remove the oil pan or slide a magnet fasten to a flexable stick down the dip stick chase

Yes, it is a non-interference engine.

General Luxury.

There's a wire map here at this website http://www.installdr.com/Harnesses/Ford-Wiring.pdf

why don't the windshild wipers work on 1995 ford countours. their is no power to fuse box or wiper motor.

You can view the 1998 Ford Contour owners manual online at :

www . motorcraft service . com ( no spaces )

Click on Owner Guides

The manual has the fuse diagrams

1. Before pulling the timing belt make certain you mark the belt (I use tape) the out side edge of the belt & reinstall the same way otherwise you will get excessive wear on the belt do to a different wear pattern.

2. The best bet is invest in a new belt $25 - 30. The time it takes to gain access to it is more than worth the cost. Cheap insurance plus timing belts are recommended to be replace around 40 - 50 K miles on any OHC engine. Reinstalling a worn belt increase that chance of the belt breaking then your pistons try to eat the close clearance valves - then get out the bigger check book.

3. Once you have installed the new belt and have triple check you are at TDC on #1 cylinder in the compression stroke and both cams are properly aligned - see opposite end of cam shafts - each has a slot - you should be able place a .020" thick (it must be .020" no close to it but on the $$) straight edge into both slots - if not adjust accordingly.

If all oK - take a permanent marker and mark one tooth on the back side of each cam gear that is closest to the valve cover seat and almost directly opposit each other. This way you will know where TDC on your next visit to this part of the engine.

After you pull the old timing belt along with the lower serpentine pulley from the crank shaft. Pull the #1 sparkplug.Then insert a straw into the cylender.Reinstall the pulley bolt into the crankshaft and turn clockwise til the piston tops out.Then sit back down and look at the end of the crankshaft the keyway shold be at a 90 degree angle from the seam between the oil pan and the block.Now that the crank shaft is at top dead center.Remove the valve cover and observe the cam lobes on the forward cam over the #1 cylender thease are your exaust valves and should be positioned in a manner so that if the shaft were to be turned clockwise thay would open. The rear shaft is the intake side and the lobes shold be positioned so the valves would have just closed.Now look at the drivers side of the engin at the ends of the shafts the slots should be level with the head and Bobs your uncle your in time. install your belt.

You really didn't give enough engine info, because there were three different 2.0 liter 4 cylinder engines in a 2000 Contour. But I am going to take a wild guess and say that you probably have an VCT engine. You will know because it will have a big "VCT" stamped across the valve cover, and a two-wire elecrical connector sticking straight out of the middle of the front end of the valve cover, close to the number 1 spark plug. That "VCT" means everything, because it stands for Varible Cam Timing, and is probably the at root of your problem. In the VCT system, the PCM actually advances and retards the exaust camshaft. I mean it actually clocks the cam itself either forward or backward by using a special cam gear that can literally be turned to a different position on the end of the camshaft. The PCM can actually turn it, by using a pressurized oil feed passage that applies oil pressure to a special mechanism inside the cam gear to reposition it on the camshaft, thus advancing and retarding the cam timing. Then it uses the cam sensor to moniter the camshaft position. If the PCM makes an adjustment to the camshaft, and then sees that the camshaft is in the wrong position by means of the cam sensor, it will set a P0340. I will tell you this. Those sensors are almost bullet proof. I have never had to replace a cam sensor on a Contour. I work in a shop with about 20 guys and there has only maybe been 2 of those sensors replaced in the last couple of years in my shop. They just dont go bad hardly. What does go bad is that special gear I just described and the VCT valve that the PCM uses to control it. A big contributing factor to causing these things to go bad in the first place is usually not changing the oil often enough or switching up brands of oil. The passages in those things are the size of a pinprick, and even the slightest tiny bit of sludge at all kills them. The exaust cam has to be removed to replace the VCT valve. INSTALLER BEWARE! It requires a set of special cam alignment tools to put it back together. There are no alignment marks and there are no keyways on the gears, so the cam gear will spin freely on the end of the camshaft once the bolt is loose. There is one more simpler possibility. That you have a problem in the VCT control wiring back to the PCM. It's that connector that is sticking out of the top of the valve cover. Inspect that wiring, and especially where it goes directly into that connector. Sometimes you get a break in that wiring, and the PCM loses control of the VCT. That will also set a P0340.

Most likely a "dry rotted" hose or rubber connection. Just check the lines from the engine to the gas tank to see where the fuel is comming from.

To change the fuse in a Rover 200, locate the fuse box and the fuse needing changed. Use pliers, pull the fuse out gently and put the new one into place.

Perhaps a stuck door in the HVAC system or a blockage in the ducts.

There is no such thing as an A/C filter. There is however a cabin filter. Are you sure this vehicle has a cabin filter? I do not think it does. Your owners manual will have this info.

There is a cabin filter on the '97 Ford Contour. You need to turn the windshield wipers to the on position (straight up) and pry the caps from the cowl panel. Remove screws. Open the hood and gently pull back the weatherstripping on the back of the engine. Remove the screws holding the cowl panel. Remove the two pieces and remove two clips that hold the filter housing and remove the housing from the vehicle. You should then be able to slide the filter out to replace it.