Ford Contour

On the V6 engine it is at the top (viewing the car from the front) right of the upper intake manifold, it has a hose running to it from the accordion tube. Not sure on the I4 model though.

Contours are lines shown on maps depicting the height of different areas.

Sounds like the wheels need re-balancing - that would cause the vehicle to 'pull' to one side during braking.

Open up your hood, look at the front right side of the engine compartment and look for the upper radiator hose, it is black about 1.5 inch - 2.5 inch in diameter and very hot to the touch if the engine is or was running. So I would suggest you looked at it with a cool engine. Follow this host till it meets up with the engine, usually an elbow, or a 45* pipe.. where the pipe attaches to the engine usually 3 bolts, sometimes I have seen 2 bolts as well, the thermostat is in between the pipe and the engine.

Please do not try to access this with a hot engine!! Spilt Antifreeze will kill dogs and cats!!

It tastes sweet to them and they will die.

5w30, pick your brand. all are good

The removal of rusted license plate bolts on a Ford starts with the application of penetrating oil. It breaks down the rust and allows the bolts to be removed without breaking.

Two reasons this may happen... one the intake around the butterfly is dirty.. (clean it with some carb or FI cleaner and a rag on the end of a long screwdriver... wipe all the inside down that you can get to) the second is the TPS--- Throttle Position Sensor going bad...

The light is a warning that your transmission's computer is storing some sort of trouble code. A good reputable transmission shop can read the codes and tell you what they are. A bad, disreputable tranny shop will tell you it definitely needs an overhaul. There are probably more BAD shops than GOOD ones. Ask your friends for the names of some good shops.

just get a new car.

No. The Contour is a front-wheel drive car, and the Ranger is rear wheel drive.

bad linkage in shifting cable

in the fuse box under the hood near the firewall. just can't remember which side.

In the drivers footwell , the picture shows an access hole in the kick panel by the drivers left foot

located on the cam shafts there are two marks one on each that have to be aligned!

I assume you mean the variable speed control on the dash. Pull the stereo , you'll need a small torx head screw driver to remove one screw on the bottom of the old switch, slightly twist and remove. Switch wiring , insert new switch with a small twist, good luck installing the screw. ps. to remove the know on the switch, pry from the bottom, that releases the catch that holds the know onto the switch

either under dash behind glove box or pass kick panel near floor should be brown marked door relay

Check all your wiring connections, it sounds like you have a loose connection somewhere, also check the harness plugs and make sure they are also tight.

it's all one belt

Sounds to me like you have a leaking head gasket. Take the car to a good mechanic and have him check it out.

The check engine light (service engine soon) comes on and stays on when a problem is detected by the self diagnosis system of your vehicle. Generally, the problem is in the emissions or something that is affecting the effectiveness of the emissions, but other causes can trigger the light to come on, too. To determine the cause, the vehicle will need to be taken to AutoZone or a shop that has an OBD2 scanner, or for 1995 and earlier models, an OBD1 scanner, While a scanner will not give you the magic answer, it will give you a code that narrows down the problem area.

The check engine light (service engine soon) comes on and stays on when a problem is detected by the self diagnosis system of your vehicle. Generally, the problem is in the emissions or something that is affecting the effectiveness of the emissions, but other causes can trigger the light to come on, too. To determine the cause, the vehicle will need to be taken to AutoZone or a shop that has an OBD2 scanner, or for 1995 and earlier models, an OBD1 scanner, While a scanner will not give you the magic answer, it will give you a code that narrows down the problem area.

If this is an Accord with rear drum (did they still make those in 05?) replace the cylinder. If it doesn't push in easily it is frozen and will never work again.

Otherwise:

Unmount the caliper and remove the pads.

Disconnect the parking brake cable from the caliper parking brake lever.

Use a purpose built tool (preferably not the cube shaped thing) to rotate the piston clockwise as it pushes the piston inward.

Verify that the notch in the piston aligns with the teat of the brake pad. If not, rotate the piston counterclockwise until the notch is positioned to positively engage with the teat.

I believe all contours have a test connection similar to a tire stem connection that you can connect a fuel pressure tester to. You need to find the specification on fuel pressure.(depends on if it's a 2.0 4c or 2.5 v6) You will need to connect the tester, turn the ignition on and watch the fuel pressure tester gauge, and if it's losing too much pressure while engine is off(usually more than 5-10 psi) then that's a sign of a failing fuel pump.

The pump isin the tank. Get amanual on it from the parts store.

In a 1997 Ford Contour with a V-6 it is not in the tank, it is underneath the rear seat and it only takes 20 mins to replace

I have a 1997 countour. it is in the tank, But you can access it by pulling off the rear seat. the rear seat literally pulls out, and then it is right there. Just make sure you relieve the fuel pressure otherwise it will spray all over when you disconnect it.

I would most definitely say replace battery, at least have battery checked at almost any parts store. DC current on flows one way.

Then I would suggest going here and getting a manual which would have this needed information. [http://www.themotorbookstore.com/mystique.html Ford Contour Repair & Service Manual 1995-1999] Good Luck and Remember.
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