Ford E-150 Van

This strictly depends on the tow set-up you have on your vehicle and how it is mounted to the vehicle. Look at the hitch, check the label. It will give you max tongue weight and max tow weight for you hitch. Keep in mind, these numbers are advisories. If your hitch is permanently welded to the frame of the vehicle, they can be trusted, however if the hitch is bolted on or temporarily attached, I would not put anymore than 1000 pounds less than the rated weight of the hitch. For example, if the hitch says maximum weight capacity of 6500 lbs, don't load more than 5500 lbs for temporarily mounted or bolted hitches. As far as what the vehicle can handle, call or stop by your local Ford service department, they will generally let you know for free.

Try pouring some clam chowder into it, it's my fav

it is probable the gauge regulator or sensor in the fuel tank that is on fuel pump. Drop tank and clean contacts on it or replace whole fuel pump assemble.

Tits

You don't. Pulling those bolts often leads to breaking them which leads to re-tapping the block to get a new manifold on, which will just do the same thing once it ages a year or so. It is a poor design, I ended up welding mine on to shut it up. :/

no

On a 1999 Ford E-150 , 4.6L :

The firing order is ( 1 - 3 - 7 - 2 - 6 - 5 - 4 - 8 )

The engine cylinder locations are numbered :

4 - 8

3 - 7

2 - 6

1 - 5

front of vehicle

* I don't know how the spark plug wires are numbered on the ( 2 ) coil packs *

Try looking behind the passenger side kick panel. That is where it is on my 94.

On a 1999 Ford E-150 , 4.2 liter V6 engine :

3 - 6

2 - 5

1 - 4

front of vehicle

This is the sensor that determines if the ignition is going to set off right. If something is going wrong, it will not work correctly.

it should be under the seat where the seat motor is located.

MOST VEHICLES WITH TILT STEERING HAVE A LEVER LOCATED ON THE STEERING WHEEL SECTION OR ON THE STEERING COLUMN.THIS LEVER IS PULLED OR PUSHED AND ALLOWS THE STERRING COLUMN TO TILT

you can't. You have to replace the whole headlight assembly, it doesn't come apart. check the junk yards or eBay it's cheaper.

yes

Maybe the horn is defective, or missing. It should be located on the drivers side, front of the engine compartment. It is accessable from under the vehicle. test with a jumper wire from the battery to the horn, also check the ground connection. There is also a horn relay. joedi

in mint condition 6500

400

It has no money or credit card.

Or

The tank is empty.

The line or filter is blocked.

The fuel pump is not working.

diagram of a 1995 ford E150 econ line solenoid switch

Hi On most vehicles, there is a pastic cover on the inside of the door, opposite the mirrors. If there are screws, unscrew them, sometime the plastic cover pops off with some effort and the mirrow screws should be visible under this cover. Fairly simple. B.H.

I'll bet you have a clogged fuel filter. You sucked up all the gunk from the bottom of the tank. It's happened to me. They're cheep to buy and easy to install.

This is probably due to the window lift motor going bad. Take off arm rest, inside door latch and speaker grill. Now remove the inside door panel by prying it off with a screw driver along the perimeter. Now you can see the motor inside the door. Removeall the attachingbolts and remopve the motor and gaerabox. Test it on a 12 volt source to be sure it is bad. If so, replace.

13726548

There is always a filter in the tank. If there is another it will be found in the gas line between the tank and the engine.

How to Change Spark Plugs on 4.6 & 5.4 Liter

By Dave West

I've replaced plugs on quite a few 5.4Ls now (the 4.6L with plug wires is similar) and once you've done a set they really are not as bad as they look. Contrary to what some people will say, you don't have to remove the fuel rails. The Coil on Plug (COP) assemblies will come out past the fuel rail. I take an old piece of seat foam and put it on top of the radiator support to the engine to allow me to lay on it without hurting my tummy. It makes the job way less painful.

Start by removing the cover over the throttle body (the black plastic cover that says "5.4" on it). There are three 10mm head bolts that hold it on. Next remove the air intake tube from the throttle body to the air filter housing. You loosen the hose clamps at either end of it; disconnect the connector on the AT (about half way up the air intake hose), the pull out the small hoses that go into the air intake tube near the throttle body. Next remove the brace from the power steering reservoir to thermostat housing. There are three 8mm or 5/16" head screws that hold it on. Now you should be able to see the COPs.

To remove the COPs you can use a 7mm or 9/32" wrench or nut driver or socket, extension and ratchet or all of the above. If you turn the fuel injectors to the side it will give you more room to work with the COPs. Unplug the connector on each COP by pressing the tab in and pulling on the connector. After you're done that just twist and pull the COPs out. A couple of the COPs on the driver's side and #4 on the passenger's side are a bit hard to get at but with some patience they will come out.

After you've removed the COPs take a blow gun and blow out the spark plug holes. Don't be surprised if there is rust and junk in them. Next you can actually remove the plugs. Use a combination of extensions, swivels (universal joints), sockets and ratchets to get at them. Whatever works best for you is good.

On the harder ones to get at I usually use a socket with a 4" extension, then a swivel, then a long extension, then the ratchet. The plugs are way down in the hole which is why I use the extension then the swivel. The swivel makes it easier to clear the firewall.

Set the gap on the new plugs to whatever it says on your emissions decal on the radiator support. usually .052-.056". Apply a small amount of anti-seize to the threads only on the spark plug. You can use a piece of vacuum hose or fuel hose over the end of the plug to get it started in the hole. Carefully start the plugs in their holes. If you can't get them most of the way in by hand with the hose take a look and see why not. Cross threaded plug threads are no fun! The plugs are to be tightened to 13 lb-ft. which is just hand tight with a short ratchet. Don't over tighten them! The threads in the aluminum heads have enough problems as it is. After that just put everything back together in reverse order. Apply some dielectric grease to the plug boots as well to help seal them.

I've done enough of these that I can replace the plugs in approximately 45 minutes but don't be surprised if the first time you do it takes a few hours.

Additional tools that aid changing spark plugs buried in the engine are a swivel head socket handle, a short handled socket handle, a magnetic socket that holds the plug more securely, and a 5 inch long spark plug socket that aids in aligning the spark plug in blind holes you can't see into. Especially important if you are changing plugs on a van.

The fuel pump is in the fuel tank.

First, remove th fuel tank from the truck being careful to disconnect the big fill hose, fuel hose, return hose, and vapor hose as well as the electrical connector.

Then, remove the locking ring holding the pump in the tank. Pull the pump up out of the tank noting orientation.

Reverse procedure to install new pump being careful not to bend the fuel level sender (for gage) or the pickup screen.