Ford Escort LX

under glove compartment

As near as I can tell, the se has an automatic trans, power windows, heaver suspension, speed control, wheel covers and power mirrors. I could be wrong.

Yes it does. It is on the intake side of the cylinder head underneath the intake manifold which has to come off to access it.

The black door handle inside is probably broken. Mine was and I replaced it with parts from ebay. Only about $12.00

You can't have it both ways. If it's using fluid, then it is leaking out. If you are not seeing any on the ground or at the slave cylinder have you considered that it may be leaking from the back of the master cylinder and running inside of the car. You may not have noticed because it is going between the firewall and the carpet.

The heater core is leaking. The whole dash has to come out to fix it. Even master mechanics dread a heater core repair. Try some alumapowder in the radiator. Try some of this, it really works and stops leaks without plugging up the radiator.

It is under the air filter housing.

To drain and refill it takes 2.5 quarts of Mercon Automatic Transmission Fluid.

It's fuel injected so it doesn't have a carburetor

for the rocker arms bolts its-- 98 and later, step 1- 168 in-lbs. step 2-- rotate an additional 30-degrees. this is all for a 3.1 v6, the intake bolts are -- (lower) step 1, 62 in-lbs, step2, 115 in-lbs, intake manifold bolts/studs(upper)---18 ft-lbs,

In my sons 1993 300zx there is an electric accuator located behind the door handle, his was broken, need to remove door panel to acsess. In my 300zx, there are 2 cheap plastic black pieces connecting a set of 2 metal rods (one going to the back of the door and one going into the door handle/power) You have to disassemble the door to get to it, try replacing that if it's broken or not even there.

No , it is NOT an interference engine ( 1.9 liter 4 cylinder engine in a 1995

Ford Escort , according to the Gates website )

Just squeeze the 2 prongs together to take the tension off.

The speed sensor is malfunctioning If the speedometer is still run by a cable from the transmission, the cable could be getting bound up inside the case that covers it. With heat and time the lubricant inside the plastic tube and that covers the metal cable gets dry and hard and sticky. As the cable begins to twist it will spin and then catch and then release causing the needle to bounce. This is only if you have what I consider to be a mechanicaly fed speedometer. If it is electronically fed with a speed sensor and all, answer ! may be correct. I owned a 95 and thought for sure I had mechanically activated speedometer. And on a side note if it is not the cable itself, then it may be the speedometer gear in the tranny going bad. As the tranmission speedometer gear rotates it spins the cable inside the plastic tube. Possibly a tooth or two broke off. If you find your speedo is run by a cable, there are ways to lubricate them if you can get it disassembled from the rear of the speedo or from the tranny. You may want to look at purchasing a new cable and just replacing it that is if you have a cable fed speedometer.

There is no distributor. It has the EDIS system. Electronic distributorless ignition system. The crankshaft positon sensor (CKP) sends an electical charge to the Power Control Module (PCM) which electronically distributes the secondary voltage to the plugs according to different sensor parameters..

4 quarts. Add 4 then start and let warm up. Shut off and check to make sure it's full.

this is a pain, if it is like my 1998 escort. you have to unbolt it from behind the bumper. there are 2 nuts either side of the back of the bumper and they are hard to get unless you have a ratchet. once you have all 4 off unscrew the edges of the bumper at the wheel arch's. take off the bumper. you have some screws/bolts around the head light, i think there are 4 on each, undo them and then you tilt the light from the top towards you and it should pop out. don't forget to unplug everything from the headlight first or it could be messy. then just do it all in reverse to put back together, it took my alone about 2 hours to do it but i didn't have a clue what i had to do.

Check the 30 amp Blower fuse. If not that check the fan relay, if not that check the blower motor directly from a jump on the fan itself.

Most vehicle diodes are located in the alternator.

You don't repair them. You replace the ends. The ends wear out, especially if you forget to grease them or the rubber boot gets torn and lets muddy water splash in. If there's any play at all, they're shot. You straighten out the cotter key and pull it out. Take off the nut with a wrench. If you're lucky, a whack on the end of the bolt where the nut was will separate the end from the socket. Most of the time, though, you need a "pickle fork." That's a ball-joint separator tool. It looks like a tapered tuning fork. Essentially, it's two wedges on a stick. You jam it in the gap between the tie rod end and the actuator (where the rubber boot is) and whack it with a hammer to drive the wedges on either side of the tapered bolt. If you hold your mouth right and use the right cusswords and a big enough hammer, it pops loose. BEFORE YOU UNSCREW IT!!! measure and record the distance from the bolt on the old tie-rod end to the other end of the tie rod, or you'll mess up the alignment. Then loosen the lock-nut and screw the end off the tie rod. Put the new boot and grease fitting (if any) on the new end. Screw the new end on to the exact measurement and tighten the lock nut. Put the bolt through the actuator. Screw the nut on the end and tighten it two oomphs. Line up a slot on the castellated nut with the hole in the bolt and put the cotter key in. Spread the ends of the key so it won't fall out. Then check your toe-in.

I just replaced the sensor on my 1998 Saturn SL2.. The temperature sensor/switch is inline with the spark plugs on the drivers side on the engine block and has 2 wires coming from it to the wiring harness. It takes a 13mm deep well socket to remove the sensor. The wires just unplug from the sensor by using a screwdriver to raise the tabs off. simple.

In the 1991 it's under the hood, remove the spare tire and black plastic case, on the left. May help...

On the front (passenger side) of the engine.

torque converter clutch is not engaging. new tranny is probably in order. could be an electrical issue as well. you should probably take it to a shop and have them diagnose it for you!