Ford Excursion XLT

Unless it was ordered as an option or installed aftermarket, it does not have one. Call your local Ford dealer for the location of an optional OEM heater. You having a heater problem it's probably your thermostat just go buy a new therm and gasket and have fun with those hose clamps . Well ask the guy if he has a specialty tool for the hose clamps it will save you a lot of time . THIS GUY ABOVE ME IS A COMPLETE F-ING IDIOT...

If you're describing the idler pulley or the tensioner pulley, it's probably a bad bearing. Pulley bearing failure is common and relatively easy to repair. Remove tension from the serpentine belt then turn the pulley back and forth with your fingers. It should make no noticable noise and should turn smoothly. If you can hear any grinding noise or if the pulley feels like the bearing is grinding, replace it.

I had the same problem on my 1998 Ford Expedition XLT. Spray some WD-40, in all the door jams including the hatch / back door. This should take care of problem.

the gap is .054

a stock 7.3L IDI (indirect injected)=non powerstroke has a stock horsepower rating of 180-190 hp dpending on the version i.e high altitiude. This HP rating is at the flywheel, not at the wheels

very carefuly

They are self adjusting but if you want to speed up the process, you can back the car up and pump the brake; each time you apply the brake in reverse it helps to adjust the rear brakes.

It doesn't have a timing belt is has a timing chain

You have to remove the bottom bolt and spacer for the motor mount. Easiest way is to take the right front tire off, remove the inner fender well access flap. The bolt has a nut on the out side that has to be removed. Then the stud that goes through the mount into the engine has to be removed. Slip the belt over the pulleys and reverse the procedure. Thirty minute job.

There really isn't one anymore. The instrument in the dash is just a stepper motor, which gets a signal from the PCM. You will need an adapter from a tach manufacturer to hook up any kind of aftermarket gauge.

Ford Performance Specialists specializes in SHO's. They are located in Douglasville, Georgia and have many MANY used V8 SHO parts. (770) 949-7191

There should be a fuse box under the steering column with a diagram printed on the cover.

I just bought a 2000 ford excursion,where would i look for the factory entry code?

Are you putting it in reverse? Sometimes when the Transmission Fluid is very low, and you have been driving, then stop to put into reverse, the engine will cut off. Ck Trans. Fluid.

passanger side front to back 1,3,5,7 driver side front to back 2,4,6,8

some come with, some don't. if not, u have to install one for ur own I have a 1997 and the shop spent 45 minutes looking for mine, they found it coiled up between the battery and the fender well.

dont slam on the breaks

The IPR (injector pressure regulator) Is screwed into the High pressure oil pump which is located under the fuel filter housing. It has a 2 wire connector running to it's coil and the actual valve actually screws into the pump. Good luck. Hope this helps.

That can be a problem with the fuse, the switch might be faulty. The motor at the transfer case might be unplugged.

The auto hubs are vacuum engaged. Good luck. Worst case, it is a seal in the hubs, and big bucks. Or, it could be a hose behind the brakes. Might need a trimming.

there is two heater hoses that come out of the water pump on the left side. The first one is very short, about 6-9 inches. The other one is longer and is under the short one. This applies to 92-97 ford econoline vans. This should be very helpful http://www.autoclinix.com/Ford/Pump.html

2 bolts. remove hinge bolt (back Top left when looking from the passenger wheel). Adjustment bolt. forward bottom (difficult to get to. Between alt and fan blade. Don't remove just loosen.) Once loosened slip belt off and new one on.

under the battery.remove inner wheel well.

that means you have a short somewhere in the car

Normally self adjusting brakes adjust themselves when applied in reverse, drive backwards for 4-5 feet, apply brakes, and they'll adjust themselves.

I'm thinking you mean 1992, not 82?

if they don't adjust themselves, they are either worn too far, or there is too much rust or crud built up on the adjustment wheels/screws to work. clean mechanism, or replace shoes.

If you need to get them off, there is a small window on the backing plate that may have a rubber plug over it, pull the plug, inside is a toothed wheel, with a small metal flap pressing against the edge of it, reach in with a screwdriver and lift the flap away from the wheel, then using another screwdriver or a brake spoon, turn the toothedwheel, if you turn it without lifting the flap it will only turn the brakes 'tighter', lifting the flap lets you turn it looser, so if you get confused about which way to turn let the flap loose.

ken.