Ford Explorer

Im not sure if your vehicle has a speedometer cable or if its a digital type thing with all wires and an electric motor opperating your SpeedOMeter but if it is a cable driven one, then just disconnect the cable from the speedometer from inside the vehicle... raise the vehicle if needed, I think its easier to get it from top, if the vehicle has the A413 transmission, remove the 10mm bolt holding the Speed Sensor in because the SpeedOMeter cable is running threw the middle if it, it does have a round O Gasket on it so it will be tight removing it, but it will come out with alittle wiggle and install the new the same way as you took it off.

According to the 1997 Ford F-150 owners manual : Fuse #24 in the power distribution box in the engine compartment is a 30 amp fuse for the PCM ( Powertrain Control Module ) power

Yes, they are! In fact, you can replace the old type of the 2005 for the newer 2006-08 without any problems.

For the 4.0 liter V6 ( 5 w 30 )

For the 4.6 liter V8 ( 5 w 20 )

The engine cylinders / spark plug locations are numbered :

firewall

3 - 6

2 - 5

1 - 4

front

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The firing order is ( 1 - 4 - 2 - 5 - 3 - 6 )

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The Coil Pack Towers are numbered :

coil----3---4

pack---2---6

plug----1---5

Problem in the transfer case

Trouble code P1538 means: Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Open (Bank 2)

if you're looking at the car from the front it's on the left side (passenger side), i imagine you're trying to refill the a/c coolant

I had to call around for this same thing today. They said if you have the piece of glass, the door panel needs to be removed (obviously). In my case, everything is electric and this unplugs from the door panel. The only issue with doing it yourself is the clips, which may require a special tool when you remove the panel or they can break.

I just changed my daughter's Explorer water pump and fan clutch. What a pain - mid summer - over 100 degrees. Here are the steps / lessons learned; 1) Park the vehicle in a flat area, near water source, and in the shade. 2) Obtain the pump - it cost me approx $66 via O'Reily Auto Parts Store, gloves, rags, coolant - $10, metal sharp putty knife, and gasket $4. 3) Also rent or borrow a fan clutch / pully remover - A MUST! 4) Obtain a socket set (metric and SAE), open end wrenches, rags, oil pan to catch water, and a plastic bowl to store bolts and nuts. 5) Remove the water hoses - top and bottom - will get very messy - use the oil pan to catch most of the water, 6) Using the fan clutch tool remove the fan clush and fan away from the pully - turn very large nut in front of pully. 7) once fan is removed - remove the fan shroud with a nbr 10 metric size tool. 8) pull all three out at same time - upwards. 9) remove surpintene belt with large socket and use gloves - you will pinch yourself without 10) remove pully - 4 bolts and store in safe location 11) pump has 10-12 botls - some hard to see. Use the new pump to account for every bolt. 11) once all bolts are removed pull pump and return to store for core refund 12) with a metal puddy knife remove all old gasket from engine - use rag to clean 13) spray all bolts with WD40 to lubricate and lossen crus from parts 14) install new pump - finger tighten all bolts first and then gently tighten in a cross configuration method 15) replace all parts in reverse order.

On the remote to open it you need to press the blue button on it.

Depends....a 2 valve per cylinder V8 would have 16 valves. A 4 valve per cylinder 4 banger would have 16 valves. There are also 3 valve per cylinder V8s...which would be 24. The number of valves does not necessarily determine what engine it is.

It'll bolt up to the engine, but the problem is that you'll either have to fabricate a cover for the rear of the engine and an adapter to mate the output shaft to the driveshaft. The difference between a 4x4 transmission and a 4x2 transmission is that the 4x4 transmission was designed to bolt up to a transfer case, not directly to the driveshaft.

My 1994 did the same thing.....the problem was in the high/low switch....

Its underneath the spare tyre in the boot, next to the battery

Click on the link below

Click on Owner Guides

The owners manual ( which includes the fuse diagrams ) can be viewed online

no it is not

95 amp.

On a 2002 Ford Explorer :

The thread on cap on the engine coolant reservoir is the pressure cap / radiator cap

passenger kick plate

On a 1997 Ford Explorer :

In the Power Distribution Box ( which is " live " ) located in the engine

compartment near the brake fluid reservoir

( Maxi fuse # 10 is a 30 amp fuse for the power locks / power windows / and

power seats ) according to the Owner Guide

* the fuse is located in the 2nd row from the drivers side and the 3rd spot from the firewall end of the PD Box

If you more specifically meant "why does it roll even after you put it into park?" its because the parking gears are sliding into spot. When you throw the car into park the gears attempt to push into their proper place, then when you let off the brake they slide into their spot, and theres room to work with so your car may roll back and forth. That's why if you have a large truck with huge parking gears like the Allison transmissions do the gears will produce a loud click as they literally fall into their designated spot and clang against the transmission's teeth.

I have 112,000 miles on my 2003 Ford Explorer and it is still running strong!

Trouble code P0401 means: Exhaust Gas Recirculation Malfunction Replace the EGR Valve

blown piston