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There is a few things! If the radiator cracked and water shot out while she was running it wud cease, if you let it run out ov oil she will cease or something simple like the emobiliser! if its dat den its an easy fix you need it removed or redone!
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.027 ( unless engine compartment decal shows different )
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The 2006 Ford F-150 owners manual shows ( 6 quarts / 5.7 liters ) of engine oil with filter change for the 4.2 L - V6 engine
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you have pictures and insruction which screw come first and last .
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it is a float in the gas tank that tells the fuel gauge where to be
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The Check Engine Light has come on because the computer has detected a problem with the emissions system. It has nothing to do with the coolant. Take it to a trusted professional and he will scan the computer with an OBD2 scan tool. He will use the fault code as a guide to determine what the problem is. also if you had recently messed with the engine as in unplug something and turned the car on the the light will be on for a few days but eventully turn off
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Your engine is running too lean, probably the result of either a vacuum leak or possibly a damaged EGR valve. You will damage the valves, pistons or who knows what if you don't take care of this problem immediately.
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I need the diagram for reassembly of the steering column of a 1990 Ford F150 Pick up truck.
Replaced my ignition actuator arm on my 302 engine in 90 F-150, and found this website which was very helpful. Stolenandrecovered.com
Step by step photographs which walked me thru the process without tearing
up anything. I have had some difficulty getting my turn signals to work again
and that may be some minor adjustment I have yet to figure out.
but check out this web site. Any vehicle ignition in column is listed.
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should not be more than an hours labour (usually around £30 mark) you could do it yourself if you got a set of spanners/sockets as rocker gaskets are an easy diy job, undo the retaining bolts ontop of the rockercover, remove any pipes attached (remember where they go if more than 1, could use tipex to mark) when there is nothing obscuring it from being removed give it a tap with a hammer and replace the gasket, do not over tighten the gasket bolts, check tightness before removing to give you an idea of torque
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In Chilton General Motors publication #28860. Covers GM pickups 1982-93
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disconect battery & pull fuse that controls air bag & wait 15 minutes (this will disable the airbag
There are two torx screws on the back of the steering wheel, turn your wheel to access them & remove. Pull off horn/airbag,easy does it. Disconect the wires on back & place in safe place
Remove nut holding on wheel with 13/16 socket. Pull wheel off with steerig wheel pulller.
Remove snap ring. Move Coil pack out of way.
Remove small metal band that holds on the metal star looking thing. You will need to use a steering wheel lock plate removal tool.
Now you have access to switch. remove a few torx bolts & it will be loose. Disconect the harness & pull through.
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Open the covers behind the steeering wheel. There will be 6 screws and some snap-ins. Look for the ignition switch on the left side. It should be behing the key cylinder. Remove the 3 screws holding the switch. You should be able to pull the switch out.
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You should put the same amount of fresh fluid in as you drain out of old fluid from your automatic transmission. Make sure the vehicle is parked on a level place. Then check the fluid level according to the owner's manual instructions, (on most vehicles with the engine idling, at normal operating temperature, and the transmission in "park") and if needed add fluid to bring it up to the "FULL HOT" mark on the dipstick. One additional point: Make sure you use the recommended fluid. There are several different fluids required by different vehicles.
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It sends the proper signal to the ecu to allow certain curcuits to close to allow power to the acc, on and run positions with the key.
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its a long process,you need a steering wheel puller, once its off take the hazard button assembly out, take the turn signal loose, pull old ignition out, carefully install new one, and reverse procedure
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That depends on what year. I have a 1994 GCL with a cassette only. I've been using a cassette adapter to my MP3 player. The only problem is that the cassette deck has a short (I think). Anyway, on a 1994 JGCL, remove the console face plate (only four little screws) surrounding the radio. After that it's pretty easy. Just remove the screws surrounding the radio, and pull it out. Now, finding a non-DaimlerChrysler radio to fit in the spot...that's another question.
additional info: Check with Crutchfield.com for tons of great information concerning car audio. I've used them several times and they sell good equipment at a fair price and whats even better is that they send factory wiring harness kits so your new installation is pretty close to plug and play. Their support line is better than you can believe and they can tell you almost anything about any difficulty you might be experiencing. I'll go to the grave singing praises about this company.....lol, and I don't even work for em !!!
I pulled an AMFM Radio with Casette & CD out of a 1998 JGC at a junkyard and it fits just fine in my 1994 JGC. The bennefit is that it has the original green back lighting to match the rest of my instrument dash panel. Also it is plug and play.
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The 2003 Hyundai Santa Fe has the most common hook-end wiper arms on both front and rear. See sources and related links below for installation videos. Also, purchase the replacement blades first and there will be additional instructions/illustrations on the replacement packages. Locate and press the tab or button where the wiper blade is inserted into the hook of the wiper arm and pull wiper blade out of hook. You may have to rotate and flex the blade to make enough clearance for the hook to pass through.
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Changing the heater core requires complete removal of the dash panel and plenum box. To do this you have to remove the steering wheel, steering column, evacuate and recharge the refrigerant system and drain the radiator. I would only consider changing the heater core if it is physically leaking into the passenger compartment. If the problem is heat transfer to the HVAC system only, the problem is more likely with the blend doors. Check heatertreater.net for pictures and diagnostic information.
wjjeeps.com has good instructions for dash removal.
Asked by PhilGeenen
Caution! Disconnect battery cables before making any repairs. A short circuit can cause serious burns, fire and/or explosion.Many parts stores will help with tests. 1. Test the battery to make sure it is not discharged or worn out.
2. Check the condition of battery cables and connections. Clean or replace as needed. Don't over tighten side post connections. This can strip the threads, break seals.
Quick check: headlights should not go out when you turn the key to start. 3. Check the solenoid on the starter. If it is not on the starter follow the positive cable from the battery to the other end this end is connected to the solenoid. Sometimes it is on the side wall. Make sure all connections are clean and tight.
4. If all the above check out good the starter motor may be bad. Many parts stores will test it free if you remove it and take it in.
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Water contaminated oil will be white and milky.
Oil that is very thin and light coloured could be caused by fuel contamination.
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If it turns over but just doesn't start, it may be the CRANK POSITION SENSOR located next to the air conditioning compressor. Sometimes you just have to disconnect the electrical connection and re-connect and it may just work then you know that was your problem. It could be the FUEL PUMP also but sometimes they act up some before going out so there is some warning.
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that is a very general question, value is detirmined by rarity, condition, demand, caliber, so it is necessary to ask a question that contains discriptives related to the particular gun in question.
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Mine was the starter on 1996 I30. I downloaded the schematic diagrams for the electrical system. I took out fuse #17 (10 Amp) which basically shut down the anti-theft (start) and it still didn't start. After checking that fuse #33 (7.5 Amp) was good, I replaced the starter and it's working fine. The only other thing it could be is the inhibitor switch (Park or Neutral switch) so try both positions and if it doesn't start in either Park or Neutral, it's probably the starter unless you have a stick instead of an automatic. In stick shifts, there is another switch linked to the clutch...that can stop it from starting.
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There are a few things to do to when trying to diagnose a misfire. All vehicles are different, but there are a few places to start.
1)If possible use an OBDII scanner on newer vehicles. The misfire counter function can help you determine which cylinder is behaving badly. Clearly this is not an option for all people and vehicles though.
Note)Even without engine scanners you can identify which cylinder is causing a dead misfire. Carefully disconnect one spark plug at a time. If the cylinder you are disconnecting is operating properly you will hear a change in RPM. If the cylinder you disabled is the bad cylinder you will see no change in engine behavior.
2)Check your ignition system. There are several steps to this.
A)Remove spark plugs and check to see if the electrodes look worn down or contaminated. Check your spark plug gap with a plug gapper to see if the electrode has worn down.
B)Use a multimeter to check your spark plug wire resistance. They should read roughly between 2,000 - 12,000 Ohms. What you are really looking for is an open circuit in one of the wires. Bend the wires around and see if you lose continuity.
C)Check cap and Rotor. Look for carbon tracking or extremely worn down rotor.
D)On newer vehicles with distributeless ignition systems coils are prone to failure. If you know which cylinder is misfiring try swapping that cylinder's ignition coil with another cylinder and see if the misfire moves with it.
3)If you know your ignition system is operating properly you may want to check compression. You may already have the spark plugs out from your ignition check so it only takes a minute to check engine compression.
4)Fuel injection Service - The motorvac service works miracles. It is available at most repair facillities. Adding a can of fuel injector cleaner to your fuel tank is not ecnough to clean out a severely plugged injector. The motorvac solvent is much more potent and should only be used with a fuel injection cleaning machine. It is a good place to check with a hard to find misfire.
5)Vacuum leaks - A vacuum leak will cause a misfire. If the leak is near a certain cylinder that cylinder will misfire. You can try to find a leak by spraying down the engine carefully with carb cleaner. If you spray the location of the leak the RPMs will rise. You can also inject the intake manifold with smoke from a smoke machine and look to see if it leaks out anywhere it is not supposed to.
Those are a few things to check.