Ford Festiva

Th easiest way to change the rotors on a 1990 Ford Festiva is to pay someone. However, remove the tire, remove caliper, remove the hub nut and washer. Remove the rotor from the CV axle. There four bolts on the back side of the rotor, but you may have to press out the rotor bearing.

To re-install read backwards

You need to remove the speedo drive which is on the firewall side of the transmission. It is held in by one small bolt and a crows foot. Fill it all the way up till its nearly overflowing.

Approximately 262 cid

mk3 fiestas dont have a timing belt it is done by a chain tis chain will probably outlast the engine however if the timing is lost the chain is lose and is a big job to change it best looking for new engine it will be easier to change engines wja

First, what seems to be the problem why the R&P should be repaired? Second, what type of R&P? is it power assisted or manual?

there is movement on the drivers side and it is manual

Cuautitlán, Mexico for the North American market.

When the transmission pops out of gear it usually means that there is something loose or worn out.

Could be that the clutch needs replacing.

The "rattle at high rpm" could indicate a worn bearing... either the clutch release bearing or the front bearing in the transmission

More than likely, it may well be that you've ran out of tranny fluid. That will cause the the tranny to pop out of gear, and make a sound that is similar to having rocks in the tranny. But, that awful sound doesn't need high rpms. It will make that sound at nearly any rpm.

Yep, I'm betting it's out or nearly out of fluid. You have a leak. You check and/or add fluid thru the speedometer cable hole. There's one bolt, about a ten millimeter, that holds the speedo cable in place. The hole cable goes into is also tapered, and it is tricky to get the cable out of the hole. You will probably have to pry it out. Be careful not to break the piece the bolt goes thru. A LITTLE pry bar, the type used for prying out tacks is the best device for getting the cable out of the hole. This type pry bar, if you can even call it a bar is the type that has a handle like a screw driver. I screw driver will also work, but it is harder. Good luck.

Engine, not motor... there is a difference. The engine in the 1993 Ford Festiva/Kia Pride/Mazda 121 was the fuel injected 1.3 liter Mazda B3 engine.

the crank pulley bolt has standard threads.

yes and no...

all aspire suspension parts front and rear will bolt directly to the festiva body... however the parts are not the same so you have to change the entire structure over to aspire suspension.. the 2 cars share a few individual parts like axle beam and various nuts and bolt.

the aspire and festiva also have different wheel lug patterns so you need to have aspire wheels also and spare.... so if you change only the front or only the rear you will need to carry 2 spares.

speaker wires

hey i just fixed a WA ford Festiva and i had the same problem it would start then down the road it would stop, well i checked the coil for spark it was an old one so i replaced it anyway but it could be one of 2 things either your control module is gone or your not getting any fuel to the carby if you have a carby, mine does, my problem was that i wasnt getting any fuel to my engine so i brought a new fuel pump but also got a second hand ignition module from the wreckers installed them both and it hasn't missed a beat, so i suggest that you check your spark first and if that's ok then check your fuel pump and if that's ok then it most likely is your ignition control module or points if you don't have electronic ignition. Hope this helps it helped me i also changed my leads cause they were old anyway.

its under the backseat, both the seat and backrest fold forward to reveal silver plate, under that is the pump. you need a Philips head screwdriver and pair of pliers to remove it.

YES IT IS + OR - 1 TO 2 DEGREES BEFORE TDC...

just jerk it up real hard it will pop back into place

Ford Fiesta was created in 2008.

fuel pump will only run when ign on for few seconds to pressurise system and will only pump while cranking or eng running,this is normal. most likely cause is ign module or coil which are both in distributor.

Mazda 323 swap? built for a turbo

According to the Gates website ( they make timing belts etcetera )

Yes , the 1.3 liter four cylinder engine in a 1990 Ford Festiva has a timing

BELT

3.6 Quarts (including filter)

beside battery in engine compartment

May be controlled by computer and non-adjustable

easy, remove the trasmission or the engine, either way one has to go. i suggest the transaxle, it can be taken from the bottom of the car. once the transaxle it removed, remove the clutch. you might as well replace it while you have it off. the flywheel has to come off next. under the flywheel you will see the rubber seal. use tweezers to gently pry the seal out. once it is out, put the new one in by hand to start. then use a flat type tool. or you can use a socket of the same diameter. tap it in flush. installation of removed items is the same as removal

If you hooked the timing light up properly, it should only show the timing marks when the #1 cyclinder fires. Considering how easy it is to hook up a timing light,I feel it safe to assume that the problem is elsewhere. The only other reason for a jumping timing mark would be that there is a speed mismatch between the distributor (and the firing of the #1 plug) and the crankshaft, where the timing marks generally are. I can think of 2 possible causes. - Is the distributor being driven at the correct speed and ratio? It should be running at half the speed of the engine; 2 revolutions of the crankshaft equals 1 revolution of the distributor rotor. However either replacing the distibutor with the wrong one or (more likely) stripped gears will screw this up. - Is the rotor actually spinning at the same speed as the distributor shaft? Though most distributor rotors are keyed to the shaft, this isn't always true. My Honda stalled on the road a few times after the set-screw fell out. Friction would drive the rotor at a rapidly decreasing and increasingly mismatched speed, so the engine would run oddly for a few seconds before dying. A timing light would've made for an interesting show whenever that happened. Rolfo adds: If your distributor has a vacuum line going to it and there is a leak somewhere, like a little hole in the diaphram of the vacuum advance, or in one of the vacuum lines, that would do it. Also I have seen a sloppy fitting distributor cap vibrate back and forth causing a similar symptom.

the motors are the same swap out the distributor the intake belt pulleys and altinator