GMC Suburban

Buy a syphon kit at Wal-Mart or auto parts

pull off fuel line that feeds fuel filter and she will emty on her own .had 2 do it last week!!

The blower is located on the upper left part of the firewall. There are usually 4-6 bolts and a plug with 2 wires. Remove all bolts and remove the electrical plug, and the blower will pull out. Put new blower in old blower's place..re-install all bolts and electrical plug. That should get you fixed up!!

A spanner is the British term for wrench. -Same tool, different name.

You need to have it checked for codes to know what the cause of the code is.

Up to 16 tonnes.

For an engine to run it needs the following; Fuel, Air, Compression and an Ignition source. (the heat of the compression in a diesel, but that doesn't apply here) If the engine turns over, it is getting fire, fuel and air TO THE COMBUSTION CHAMBER, not just in the injection rail, it sounds like a compression issue. Has the engine been run hot recently? More likely the injection system isn't getting power. The elctrical timing could be off, especially if the distributor has been replaced, mechanical timing might be off if the timing chain has jumped a tooth or more on one of the timing gears. It could be many more obscure reasons. Water in fuel,, fuel filter, air filter plugged, possibly be getting way too much fuel..........Might not be tapping the dash in the proper spot and/or holding your mouth right!!!

Three other items to check when the engine turns over but will not start are the height tension wire between the distributor and the coil if it's external; control module in the distributor and the timing chain could have jumped a tooth or simply worn out.

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The best place to find a diagram for 1999 GMC 350 cubic inch engine would be a your local GM dealer. They keep diagrams and manuals on all their models.

Symptoms: squealing, groaning, slowing, works sporadically, etc.... Its the blower motor. After I removed it, I spun the thing and groaned just the same.

Sockets needed are 5.5mm for the 5 blower screws; 9/32 for other cap screws if you choose to.

This is not too difficult of a job. First of all, if you have a manual and it says the dash has to be removed, burn the manual. Do not just throw it away, since it is possible someone could go through your trash and end up with this terrible manual. That's just what my service manual said, remove dash and all dash components. About half way through that job, I discovered how simply the blower motor can be removed.

All you have to do is remove the glove box. There is a rubber "rope" attached to the left side of the box that has to be removed, then flex the right side of the glove box inward to allow the rubber stop to pass the framework. Lower the box past it's normal open position and pull toward you. (It's a good idea to take all the crap you keep in it out of the box)

Behind the glove box, in the lower right portion of the dash you'll see the round outline of the blower motor. You are actually looking at a rubber cover over the motor itself. At the top of the motor you'll see the two electrical leads to the motor. One is positive and one is ground. They just pull off. Mine were black and purple. Black is ground. Purple is power.

Now that the leads are disconnected, it might be a good time to check them for power, just to make sure your blower motor is defective. If the motor has to go, then begin pulling the rubber cover off the motor. Just reach behind it and starting working it off. There is a flap along the top that has a notch in it that fits over a peg, sort of like a belt. Just keep working and twisting and it can be removed with a little effort. (yES, THATS FOR 99 AND UP, for 98 and earlier, see below)

Once the cover is removed you'll see 5 or 6 tiny screws that hold the motor in. You'll probably need a socket extension with some sort of flex or u-joint attatchment to get to some of these. With the screws out, remove the motor. You might have to rotate the motor housing to get it past some of the dashboard bracing, but it's pretty straight forward. This is how I did it on my 1999 GMC Suburban, 1/2 ton, 350, 2wd. Other models may be different.

GOOD Luck!

Modifications for 1998 K2500 and earlier.... my Haynes Chilton manual mentioned nothing about the rubber cover... On the 98 and apparently earlier, there are several screws that hold it in place. Two can be removed, both upper right, but don't bother. The boot is hooked over the top and screwed there too... that's why they say to remove the dashboard.

After unplugging the cable harnesses from the ECM and other locations, and disconnecting the black and purple wires from the fan (just pull, there are no clips or keepers) work a utility knife from right to left on the flat section from side to screw hole to purple connector hole to second screw hole to the left side. This boot will wedge nicely back after you are done.

Transfer the screw hole inserts on the old fan to the new fan.

Transfer the black wire connector (undo the screw) as well.

Flexible shaft 1/4 drive for the top and top right blower screws

Good Luck and don't cut any wires! or fingers :-)

You can buy a book on you vehicle that will help you out extremely with vehicle systems including changing the brakes. The books cost like 15-20 bucks but i think its VERRY well spent.

For the correct serpentine belt, it's probably asking you the amperage of the alternator, correct? Your best bet is to see if you can find any kind of part number off the existing alternator. Then take that number with you to a shop, and they might be able to find out the type of alternator you have. If you can't find any numbers, it makes life a little harder. What i'd do is try going to some online parts suppliers, like partsamerica, or rockauto. Look up the alternator and compare the pictures of the parts they have. Most times the different amped alternators will have different connectors, or look different all together. Thus allowing you to isolate the type you have. Good luck.

Walk out to the vehicle with the fob, press the lock and unlock buttons at the same time and HOLD them pressed for 7 seconds and you will hear the locks go thru a cycle. After 7 seconds the fob should be reprogrammed. Try it. If not stand closer. I stood beside the front driver's fender to do mine and it worked first time.

that means all that is required to gain entry to all such vehicles is a similar remote.

are you sure about this ?

My suburban has a automatic tensioner therefore I need to do is take the tension off with a long wrench and slide the belt from underneath it and replace it with the new one. The tensioner is right by the water pump. If not then you will need to loosen the alternator bolt and drop the alternator to loosen the tension. Trust me manuals can be your best friend!!

Are you sure that it's got one? If it does, it should have a screw on cap covering it. The port will be a part of the rail. If not, you'll need an inline adapter to check fuel pressure.

R-134

to change a rear wheel seal on a GMC 3500 you need a 7/16 wrench, hammer and cold chisel, 32mm socket and ratchet, and flat blade screwdriver. Remove bolts to remove drive shaft. Next, remove old seal and replace with new seal.

Take the inside of the glove box out and look down and to the right and you will see it.

I know this sounds strange, but replace the ignition switch (not the lock cylinder/where the key goes) it's about $120 - $170 depending on the parts store you get it from but low voltage from the switch seems to effect the Transmission....

Disconnect one or both of the the battery terminals. Remove as much fuel as possible using a siphon or whatever means available. Remove the fill pipe clamps and pull the rubber hose off the tank. Support the tank with a hydraulic jack or anyting else that will hold the weight and can be adjusted. Remove the bolts that go through the bands around the tank and lower the tank a little. With the tank lowered, remove the fuel lines and electrical connections.

If your 97 GMC Suburban won't start when it is hot outside, check the distributor cap to ensure it is clean. You should also ensure it has plenty of coolant.

On some suburbans its at the connection behind passenger turn signal.

No , not unless you crash into something in front of you afterwards with enough force

for the airbags to inflate

Maybe a bad or loose wire on the compressor? Check the wiring real good for loose or dirty connections. Look for any cracks or breaks too. It's also possible that it's just a little low on coolant and it's a coincidence that you opened the hood and the compressor disengaged. Check the connection to the low pressure sensor and make sure you have enough refrigerant.

lack of fuel? fuses? fuel pump gone bad?