GMC Yukon

Open the hood and look down to the right.Or in the center of the steering wheel. Fairley simple. there is one located behind the driverside turn signal and one located directly behind the center of the grill. if you look in the grill opening you can see it right there.

"Go to module master.com"

The 2004 GMC Yukon has a 9 ft. 8 in. (116 in.) wheel base.

The fuel filter is located in line underneath the driver's side door. You will see a black plastic bracket holding it in place. -Lionel

Remove all visible screws,pull the bottom of the panel out and lift straight up once the door handle is cleared. I just did this on my 97 Yukon, my door latch was bad. To remove the panel, it is held on by plastic pins behind the panel and two screws in the pull to shut the door, take out the two screws. then find the easiest spot to pry to panel away from the metal door. A bright light is helpful to see the pins here. a long flat tip screwdriver may "pop" the pins off the panel one at a time. If you can lift the panel, as the other poster suggests, this process may be quick. The handle is in the way of just lifting straight up so it was easier for me just to pop one pin at a time. The panel is only hooked on the window sill and can just be lift up and off. The panel can be removed this way but you don't gain access to much once it's out of the way. There are also the wires to the controls for the windows and doors to pop loose from the door panel but it's clear which latches (4) to release to get the controls off the panel. There is a steel cover over the opening into the door.

The 2013 GMC Yukon-XL is 18 ft. 6.4 in. (222.4 in.) long.

Spark plugs that you buy, should be pre-gapped for this application.

60MM is the gap for my 1998 GMC SIERRA with the same Engine and the AC-DELCO

plugs that I use, are always pre-gapped and work just fine, right out of the box.

Oxygen Sensor The O2 sensors on your truck. If you look inside the wheel wells behind the fender liner, right about where the frame is one O2 sensor, the other is underneath the truck about half way back in relation to the transmission. If you see where the exhaust joints together, you went about 6" too far.

When you start looking at the O2 sensors, they are normally numbered something like "Bank 1 Sensor 1" Bank 1 is on the passenger side; Bank 2 is on the driver's side. Sensor 1 is the upstream sensor (near the frame, between the block and the cat) and Sensor 2 is near the Y-pipe (downstream of the cat).

Normally it is the upstream sensors (sensor 1) that go first. They see the harshest conditions. You will need; Oxygen Sensor Socket Anti-Seized Penetrating Oil Sometimes it will take 15 minutes or take a few hours it depends on your luck…

SHould be somewhere on or near the valve covers.

pull off the face of the dash you can see the seam around it . and i mean pull it is held on with clips start on lef side and work your way around . you will have to put the shifter in low. depress clip and pull off wiring. open clip and switch comes off the back knobs and all

The 2005 GMC Yukon-XL has a 25 degrees angle of approach.

The 2005 GMC Yukon is 16 ft. 6.9 in. (198.9 in.) long.

The 2001 GMC Yukon has a 4-speed automatic.

Six (6) US Quarts with Filter change.

It's definitely doable, but it's a bit more of a pain than it should be. Before you get started, you need to know that the fender liner is fastened directly to the washer reservoir with plastic push-in retainers. If you slide under the left front of the vehicle, you can easily see the bottom of the reservoir and the retainers holding the fender liner in place. These retainers are made to push in, but never come out - it may be possible to get them out without breaking them, but it seems unlikely to me. They probably cost less than a buck, so buy two of them when you by the replacement reservoir. If the parts guy can't find them in his catalog, you might try showing them to him.

Another important point is that the fluid reservoir actually needs to be removed from underneath the vehicle - there's a structural member in the way that makes it difficult if not impossible to pull it out through the hood opening. That would not be a big deal were it not for the fact that the fluid lines and electrical connectors approach the reservoir from the top. This means that the pump assemblies need to be removed from the reservoir *before* the reservoir can be dropped down and out of the engine compartment. It's doable, but it has to be done by feel because there just isn't enough room in there to see what you are doing. More on that later.

By the way - my Yukon XL has a rear wiper/washer, so it has two pump assemblies and two fluid lines. If you don't have a rear wiper, you will have one pump assembly and one fluid line.

So, on to the task at hand:

# Disconnect the battery cables and remove the support brace that runs diagonally over the top of the battery (I believe a 10mm socket will work). Lift the battery out and set it aside. # If the washer reservoir is not empty, siphon off all fluid now.

# Remove the 10mm screws holding the battery tray in place, and set the tray aside.

# The reservoir attaches to the front part of the truck frame with two 10mm screws. The upper screw is easily accessible from above - remove it.

# With a flashlight, locate the washer fluid lines. They run along the left hand side of the fender then down behind the washer reservoir to the pumps. You may be able to gently tilt the reservoir back and actually see the pump assemblies attached to the bottom front of the reservoir.

# Looking at your replacement reservoir, try to visualize how the pump assemblies attach. First, notice the rubber bushings at the bottom of the recession in the reservoir where the pumps fit. Directly above each bushing, at the top of the recession, is a channel which is molded into the reservoir itself. Each pump has a short intake nipple which pushes down into the rubber bushing. Each pump also has a vertical pin at its top that snaps into the channel at the top of the recession. To remove a pump assembly from the reservoir, you gently pop the top pin out of the channel by pulling the pump forward (away from the reservoir), then gently twist and wiggle the pump nipple up and out the rubber bushing. You will probably need to do this "blind", so it's a good idea to visualize the procedure first. # (Put on safety glasses now!) Slide under the front of the vehicle on your back. Locate and remove the lower 10mm mounting screw.

# At this point, the reservoir should be held in place only by the plastic retainers that attach it to the fender liner. You should be able to push the reservoir away from the front of the vehicle enough so you can reach up and feel the pump assemblies.

# Gently remove the pump assemblies as described above. Try to disturb the fluid lines as little as possible - they are somewhat flexible (at least mine were), but they have a reputation for breaking. # Locate and remove the electrical connector to the fluid level sensor.

# Remove the plastic retainers that attach the fender liner to the reservoir. You may need to clip them off from beneath, or cut them off from within the wheel well. Or, maybe you know the trick for removing them without breaking them ... # Taking care to not catch any of the pumps/tubes/wiring, pull the reservoir down and out of the engine compartment. # Holding the reservoir upright (important!), grab the the fluid level sensor and gently twist and wiggle it until it is free. If you forget to hold the reservoir upright, the float arm of the fluid sensor may articulate such that it catches on the rim of its mounting hole as you pull it out. If this happens, the float arm will probably snap off and remain inside the reservoir. You should be able to fish it out and snap it back into its cradle. # If your new reservoir did not come with rubber bushings for the pumps and sensor, remove the bushings from the old reservoir. My new reservoir came with the two small bushings that receive the pump intake nipples, but did not have the bushing that receives the fluid sensor.

# Gently push the fluid level sensor into its hole in the new reservoir. It is designed to fit the right way.

# Look at the top of the fat part of the two reservoirs and locate the holes through which one of the battery tray screws will go. If your old reservoir has a threaded metal clip for that screw to cling to, but your new reservoir doesn't, move the clip from the old one to the new one.

# Notice that the hole for one of the pump assemblies is higher than the other - this is the hole for the rear pump. The rear pump should be marked "Rear", and goes in this hole # Gently fit the new reservoir into position from beneath the vehicle. Take care not to catch any of the dangling pumps/lines/connectors on the reservoir as it passes by.

# Push the intake nipple of the front pump into the lower bushing, then snap its top pin into the reservoir channel. Repeat with the other pump. # Reconnect the wires to the fluid level sensor. # Replace the two 10mm mounting screws.

# Reattach the fender liner to the reservoir using the plastic retainer pins. # Replace the battery tray and attach it with the screws removed in Step 3. The two screws that are different from the others go in the angled surface that rests on the inside of the fender. # Replace the battery and connect it up.

# Replace the diagonal brace and tighten it down.

# Fill the reservoir with a gallon of washer fluid.

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The gross weight of the 2011 GMC Yukon is 7100 lbs..

turn key to on position push gas pedle down to floor 3 time resets warning ligths

The 2007 GMC Yukon's engine produces 295 hp @ 5600 rpm.

I anwered this question Look at post ... "Where is Expansion valve located on 2003 Yukon Denali XL"

underneath there is a black, plastic safety shield. there should be a little 6" door with a screw, open this & you'll see the oil drain plug.

right side of block behind starter

the wire from the tow-haul switch located in the shift lever is broken. take the lower cover off of the steering column and the wire will be exposed so you can get to it. use a test light to find where the wire is broken (usually right where it goes into the dash) solder in about a six inch piece of speaker wire and put a coil in the wire so it will flex (if you have a tilt wheel). this will solve your problem and is a lot cheaper than replacing the lever assy like the dealer wants to do.

Get a 5/8" spark plug socket, socket wrench, and if you can a spark plug wire removal pliers. The spark plugs are located on the sides of the engine, between the exhaust manifold. Remove the wire covering the spark plug be careful ,don't just pull on it, first turn it, from side to side, using the pliers. Due to the heat the wire bonds with the spark plug and easy to tear them. So first twist them and then pull. Make sure you pull close to the end. Insert the socket on the spark plug and turn counter clockwise. Before you install the new plug, check the gap. Insert the new plug in the socket and turn it with your fingers three-to four turns is good. Make sure you turn in with your fingers first is very easy to damage the threat if you use the socket wrench. Once you feel the plug has gone straight into the thread use the socket wrench to tighten it. Its the same procedure for the rest of them.