GMC Yukon

13 ft lbs

The 2003 GMC Yukon has a 9 ft. 8 in. (116 in.) wheel base.

t55 torx t55 torx

http://www.extendedgmwarranty.com/owners-manual/gmc/2005-GMC-Yukon.pdf

adobe acrobat required

The maximum tosing capacity of the 2012 GMC Yukon is 8500 lbs..

oh that has happend to me just take it to the place you got it and they will fiix it im not sure how much it will be

pH that's happend to me just take it to the car place that u got it from and tey will fix it

The 2003 GMC Yukon-XL has a 10 ft. 10 in. (130 in.) wheel base.

This is not recommended in most cases. The seats are designed withstand the tremendous forces from a car collision. Each seat and seat belt combination is designed for a specific location in the car. Changing these positions or adding non-standard seating interferes with the safety of you passengers sitting in non-standard seats. Even if a new seat fits into the floor anchors, the different weight and position of passengers may cause the new seats to fail unexpectedly in a crash.

the most common size is 245/75r16 but the optinal size which most people go with is 265/75r16

The 2003 GMC Yukon-XL's engine produces 285 hp @ 5200 rpm.

Hood of the engine compartment. Take hold of the headlight lightbulb connector. Push the connector in and turn at the same time. Do the same with the lightbulb. The lightbulb will come out. Reverse the process to install the new lightbulb.

Chances are, your window came off the track because the regulator is worn out. Most GM cars and trucks have window regulators that are riveted to the inner door panel. To fix it yourself you'll need a Drill with a 1/4 inch bit (or close in size), a hammer, a nail punch or small screwdriver), a Phillips head and flathead screwdriver, and a set of sockets and a ratchet or a wrench set. You'll need to remove the interior door panel and see if the track on the bottom of the glass still has both of the plastic sliders on it. The regulator looks like a big pair of scissors with a small electric motor attached to it. On the ends of each arm are the sliders. If one has fallen out it can be a real pain to keep the window straight. If you want to tackle the job yourself, you'll need to disconnect the wiring harness connected to the window switches and door mirror switches to fully remove the interior trim panel. Next you may find a sheet of plastic that acts as your cars insulation. You will want to carefully remove this because it should be put back on later. There is a strong adhesive holding it on, so if you don't get it off right away, park the car in a sunny spot and let the sun soften it up for an hour or so. once you have that off you can see what your working with. You will need to knock out the centers of the rivets holding the regulator in place. They can be kind of stubborn on some cars, so don't be afraid to give it a few good whacks as long as the window is not in danger if being hit by your swing if you miss. There are usually three or four in the center of the door, and another two toward the left of those if you're working on the driver's side of the car, the opposite side if on the passenger side. Once the centers are knocked out, You will need to drill out the rivets. Be sure you don't drill out the metal on the door panel. Before you drill out the last two you may ant to have someone hold the window glass so the whole thing doesn't drop into the door and break. It may also take some work to get the regulator and glass separated. I have found that its usually best to do the removal with the wondow about halfway down, so you can make the shifts and adjustments to get them apart. Once all the rivets are out and the glass separated, gently lower the glass down so you can remove the rubber trim from the bottom of the window opening and them remove the glass from the door. the regulator will need to be plugged back to the switch and push the button to put the window down. this will make the regulator "flatten" the regulator to its mostnarrow position so you can get it out of the spaces in the door's panel. Once you get that out, just work your way backwards to get it all back to gether. You will need to get yourself a few nuts and bolts that are short enough to fit inside the door trim panel unless you know anyone with a gun big enough to put rivets back in there. And it's not a bad idea to get a locking washer for each of the nuts and bolts. Just test the regulator before putting the panel backon to be sure the bolts aren't hitting the arms, its a good idea to bolt them from the inside and nut the side toward the trim panel to lower the risk of this happening.

As for paying a mechanic to do it, The part alone can be up around $100, most mechanics charge right around 50-60 dollars an hour for labor, and its about a 1-2 hour job(closer to one hour) So you can expect between a $150 - 250 bill.

The curb weight of the 2003 GMC Yukon is 5042 lbs..

The 2011 GMC Yukon has a 9 ft. 8 in. (116 in.) wheel base.

Mounted on top and inside the fuel tank.

The 2015 GMC Yukon runs on flex-fuel (FFV).

I had a problem one time with my Chrysler New Yorker. If the power windows would not work then the a/c would not turn on, if I turned the car off and tried the window switch if the window worked the a/c worked. My mechanic said it was a bad ignition switch. He changed it out and no more problems. I believe there may be a code stored in the computer that can be cleared out, if no other problems exist. ----- Here's what you need to do.... (taken from a 4x4 newsboard from "Kevin")

Disconnect the battery negative cable to allow the A/C control module to reset. It has gone into fail safe mode due to excessive cycling of the compressor clutch. Once it is reset you will be able to again run the compressor to diagnose the system. It will go into fail safe if the compressor cycles more than 15 times in one minute or something like that (not exactly sure of the time period). Your compressor will cycle too often if you are low on refrigerant and cause the control module to enter the failure mode. When you reconnect the battery & start the truck, immediately start charging the system with freon.

There is also a known problem with the harness connector to the low pressure clutch cycling switch that can cause the same problem. Many parts supply stores carry the replacement harness connector to fix the problem of poor and intermittent contact at the connector. To test your low pressure cycling switch harness connector, just wiggle it a little bit while the compressor clutch is engaged. If the connector is bad you will notice the clutch cutting in and out as you wiggle the wires going into the connector.

Rear and side windows of all vehicles sold in the United States are made of "tempered glass". Tempered glass is used because it has a desirable characteristic in that it does not create long, sharp shards when it breaks. Tempered glass breaks into crystal shapes, with far less dangerous edges. You can still be cut by broken tempered glass, but not the deep, dangerous cuts that threatens life. When glass is tempered it must first be formed into the final shape. Tempered glass cannot be cut, and even slight bending will cause the entire sheet to shatter into the characteristic small crystals. If the vehicle is heated unevenly and the vehicle is attempting bend the glass, it will shatter. As a result, auto manufactures make sure that the vehicles do not put those types of stresses on the glass. Typically, when tempered auto glass shatters, the glass has been damaged through scratches or chips. After that, even moderate temperature change can cause the tempered glass to shatter. The scratches or chips don't even need to be very severe.

Where id the AC expancion valve located in a 202 gmc yukon with rear air

This means one of three things: Most probable: The dash selector switch needs to be replaced. This is also the least expensive solution and easiest to fix yourself. The dash trim plate can be pulled free. Remove the switch, unplug, and replace. Also possible but less likely: The encoder motor at the front differential has gone south or the connection thereto has come loose. This is the motor that engages and disengages the front end when you use the selector switch to shift in and out of 4wd. Least likely and most expensive: Some "other" transfer case or front end problem that must be diagnosed with a code reader. Some dealers will read the code for free.

On a 2002 GMC Yukon XL, the factory amplifier is located inside the center console, beneath the cup holders. The cup holders can be detached by popping them out with a flat head screwdriver.

The front track of the 2008 GMC Yukon is 5 ft. 8.2 in. (68.2 in.).

The 2001 GMC Yukon has 16 valves.

I believe the 2006 uses the same Homelink garage door opener as my 2001. Here are the steps for programming a single button: - Make sure you have the garage door opener with you. - Turn the key to ACC (no need to have the car running, but you need power) - press and hold the 2 outside buttons for around 20 seconds (it may be a bit longer) until the center light begins to flash. That erases whatever was in the memory. - Now press and hold the garage door opener and the button you are looking to program. The light should blink slowly, and the blink faster after about 4-5 seconds. - Release both buttons. - Try the button you just programmed. If the door opens, you're done. If it doesn' open, you need to do 2 more steps to program the new code into the garage door opener itself. - Leave the key in the car. Go to the garage door motor in the garage. There will be a wire hanging down. That's the antenna. At the top of the wire (possibly behind the light bulb cover) will be a button marked "learn" or something similar. - Press that button. Now you have about 30 seconds. Go to the car and push the button you just programmed. It should open the door. To add a second car, repeat these steps. The garage opener can handle codes from multiple cars. Good luck.