Honda Accord

You can turn it off by simply pushing the button on the dash. Why would you want to bypass it?

Trouble code P0171 means: System too lean (Bank 1)

At the engine oil filler cap. On a 350 GM engine it is located on one of the valve covers, and is easily found. If you cannot find this cap, then you have no business working on this engine.

This is really easy to do.... much less of a pain than most other Hondas.

The beeper is located on the ceiling between the visors, inside the housing that covers up the screw mounts for the rear view mirror. Simply remove the rear portion of the cover by pushing up and outward, away from the mirror. This will expose the base of the mirror and it's screw mounts. Around the perimiter of the base of the mirror you will see two screws that hold the rest of the plastic cover in place. Remove these screws and the cover should be able to be pulled down, exposing a wire harness and a small plastic connector plug (don't know if they're all the same color, but mine is colored light blue). Disconnect the plug, shove the wires back up inside, replace the cover.

It's done!

bad cluster

If it is a V6, the cam belt, water pump, spark plugs, coolant, and thermostat, should have been replaced at 110,000 miles. If you have not done so, know that this is an interference engine. If the belt breaks you will have engine damage. If it is a 4 cylinder the spark plugs, coolant, & thermostat need to be replaced. Have brakes and suspension inspected.

You are asking this in the Honda Accord section so I must assume you mean ABS instead of albs. ABS stands for Anti-Lock Brake System.

17 gallons

EX and LX = generally under $2000.00 should be around $1500.00,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,HX over $2000.00

In a place that's almost impossible to find: screwed to the side of the car under the dash on the driver's side. This is also why Hondas are notorious for main relay problems - no air to cool the relay will get in there! BTW, before you buy a new one of these - they are very expensive - take it out of the car, set it on a table with the components facing down, and resolder all the solder joints on it. This fixes the problem more often than not.

Japan.

check the thermostat that runs the fan.

There is no recommended voltage. As long as there is continuity, it's working.

It's behind the engine on the driver's side a little bit above the oil pan. You have to go through the wheel well to get it out.

Many cars with electrically operated cooling fans will continue to run if the engine coolant is above the temperature sensors trigger level (usually somewhere between 80 to 98 degrees Celsius) even after the engine is stopped and the ignition switched off.

These types of fans should switch off once the coolant in the radiator has dropped to the designated temperature (usually around 2 to 3 minutes). If the fan doesn't switch off at all however - there may very well be a fault in the temperature sensor or the wiring to the fan and this should be checked out by a competent mechanic/auto-electrician.

under the gas tank inside of the car but you have to cut your gas line. and then repair it

Depends on condition, if it is a 4cylinder or V6, and miles on the car. Click the link and look up the value.

Easy, look under front end of the pilot and then look to the right side front of the transmission. It is a drain plug that colored blue. It is easy to see and when you find it. Use a normal richet , I think a 3/8 to take it off. The richet itself will fit in the slot. I fill it from the dip stick near the battery.

The water pump is driven by the cam belt. This engine is an interference engine and as such it is critical that the cam belt be replaced correctly or severe engine damage will occur. In order to replace the water pump the cam belt must be removed. Unless you know what you are doing I suggest you take your car to a professional to have the water pump replaced and replace the cam belt at the same time. The cam belt must be replaced every 90,000 miles. If it breaks, severe engine damage will occur.

Well if you are hearing the clicking on both ends of lock and unlock switching, then that would be a good sign! This means that the relay module is working as far as it trying to move the lock motors located in the doors. Be sure to confirm that the clicking sounds your hear come from somewhere near the dash under part or from one of the doors closest to where the door attaches to the car and not where it opens away from the car. You are trying to locate the relay module by doing this. Next check would be to test the lock motors that would be located inside your doors. Remove your door panels to find the motors located somewhere near the open side or key cylinders. You will find 2 wires leading out of the motors; these wires alternate 12v positive and negative between the two depending on whether you

Check the Honda website for recalls. My 98 Accord LX was dying in the middle of traffic, unpredictably. Turns out there was a recall on the ignition unit that the previous owner had ignored. Honda dealer fixed it, no cost to me, no more problems. Several mechanics I spoke with had no clue, including the shop manager at the dealership, and no one suggested looking up recalls, despite it obviously being a safety issue.

5qts

One is under the dash on the drivers side and one is under the hood.

To fix the bent valves you'll have to do a bit of work to just get at them. You MUST buy a manual for your car which has the torque specifications and head bolt sequences. First you'll need to remove the head of the motor-- this is the part which holds the valves. It needs to come all of the way off and this takes a bit of time. It involves disconnecting a lot of items and sometimes removal of the whole engine. Again, get a manual. After the head is removed, you'll need to take it to a shop and get them to replace or fix and reseat the bent valves. This can be pricey. However, with a twenty-year-old car, it may not be worth it. I would say $200-$300 just to have the head work done. You can try to do this work yourself, but not even professional mechanics do it, they just send it to the shop. Everything has to be perfect for it to function right and seal properly with the cylinders again.

Ok, so after you've had the head worked on, you've gotta to reinstall the head, which involves buying a new head-gasket set (which can also be pricey but expect around $100 or more) and it has to be put on PERFECTLY. No messing around. Don't apply any gasket sealer or anything, just the gasket, but your manual will tell you exactly how to do it. Just remember, you need to torque it down to exact specifications and in the right sequence-- which means you need at least 1 if not 2 torque wrenches. You may need one for foot pounds and one for degrees. Look into this more if you don't know what this means.

After you have the head reinstalled, put everything back together, set your timing perfectly, and start her up.

If all this sounds expensive and time consuming, it is. You presumably need the new timing belt that broke, and should also replace the water pump if it is part of the timing assembly. I'd also recommend getting new timing tensioners and a camshaft seal, valve cover gasket, and front crankshaft seal. The reason for these extra parts is that since it's an older car, it's likely one of these will fail eventually too. IF they do, your timing will snap again and you'll bend the valves again and be back at square one. So, since they aren't very expensive, you should do it since you are sinking all this labor and money into it already.

However, I would walk away if I were you. Generally, if you have to ask how to replace valves, then you can't do the labor yourself (this coming from a guy who just took on the job himself!). And so many other things are bound to break down on a twenty year old car, that you may scrap it in 6 months anyway.

101 problems could exist but most likely it was caused by a poor transmission design. There are hundreds of complaints on file with the NHTSA about the sudden failure of this car's transmission at highway speeds. The cause is related to an issue that required a 2004 recall of several Honda models for excessive heat buildup and gear lockup. The resulting fix put in by Honda slowed the rate of failure, but did not address the underlying cause. You should have the transmission inspected by a specialist. Most shops will not charge you to inspect it if you have service done, but be prepared for a "transmission failure" diagnosis.